exhaust leak/rough idle

cballard1972

Active member
can an exhaust gasket leak cause rough idle? I cannot get the engine to idle properly at low rmp. If I advance the timing it seems to run better but the idle is really high. I have tried adjusting the idle mixture, no help.

Any ideas
 
cballard1972":2m3oavcz said:
can an exhaust gasket leak cause rough idle?
Nope, should not...a compression leak might. Is the exhaust leak a new sound that accompanied the miss?
Also, small exhaust leaks will usually be loudest after a cold start, as the engine warms and metal expands small exhaust leaks usually are not as noticeable.

Regarding your miss and trying to tune your carb...
What carb are you running? What condition?
What is your ignition set up including timing & advance source? What condition are the components in (ie dizzy, plug wires, etc)?
Vacuum leaks are always a possible cause of rough idle...most the time the source is likely one (or more) of the three, fuel, ignition, vacuum leak.

Often if you're unable to affect idle via the mixture, you've either got the curb idle set too high (aka throttle plate too far open) so you're no longer on the idle circuit, or if you dial down the curb idle screw and the idle still won't respond by dropping under ~1,000rpm then the carb is drawing the fuel from somewhere it should not.
More details on your setup would help identify possiblities...good luck!
 
Thanks,

I am running a Carter RBS. The points condensor and coil/wires are all new. The Dizzy is a JY find off a 68 with Dual vac advance. I have one line plugged and one running off the port vac on carb. I have tried backing the idle screw off it runs really rough. I am not sure of the exact timing degree. I do not have a light. If I have it where it runs smooth at idle it sounds like it is running about 1500-2000 RPM. If I try to back it down to around 900-1100 (by ear mind you, no Tach) it is really rough. I guess I really need to start with getting a light on it, then adjusting the carb. The exhaust leak is pretty bad, I am having trouble getting the bolts out to replace the gasket. A couple of the bolt heads were broken off when I got the car and the ones that are still on there are seized. Tried Kroil penetrating fluid and a torch, but still wont budge. I am going to have to drill and tap all new holes I am afraid.
 
I looked at a couple of your earlier threads, and in particular after you switched to the '68 dizzy you mention that you still had a 'slight miss'. Is that still the case?

I also looked at your thread about purchasing the car and you mentioned it had been sitting for a long time. A common problem that occurs after a long period of sitting is valve(s) sticking. It happened to me. I discovered mine when I was trying to track down a miss on my current engine after a long sit. I pulled the valve cover and mine was easily detected because one pushrod had bent sufficiently it actually worked it's way out from under the rocker arm (kinda jammed in there pinned against the rocker).

The valve was stuck partially open and there was a miss throughout the range, but no perceivable valve train noise accompanied it. The miss was more noticeable at low idles than at higher idles where the inherent balance of an inline makes something like that less perceptible to me. I pulled the rocker arm assembly and gently worked the valve loose with some very light taps from a small hammer. I put a dab of lubriplate on the stem where it meets the guide, manually worked the stuck valve open several times, and put in a new pushrod...that took care of it, with no recurring issues.
EDIT: Still runs and drives great today...touch wood :lol: A compression test wouldn't hurt and can also help indicate a stuck valve (low compression on that cylinder), but visual inpsection is quick & easy.

{EDIT 2] A rythmic/consistent miss throughout the range is generally indicative of an ignition [or valvetrain] issue. I'd pop the valve cover and check the valves for full operation. A miss could make it difficult to get smooth idle. Never hurst to double or triple check the firing order...BTDT one too :bang: Otherwise, as far as the idle circuit itself goes, if the valves all check out I'd wonder about the condition of the carb, has it been rebuilt recently? Yeah, like lots of folks I've gotten by timing by ear, but it's always best to check it with a light (and a vacuum gauge if possible...lights can fail you on these old engines if the balance has slipped...moving target). Good luck!
 
Thanks for all the great info. The carb has not been rebuilt. The exhaust is very rich no matter where I put the idle mixture screw. I guess I will jump on that after I verify timing and valve condition.
 
Well I got a new exhaust gasket, what a mess. Started to remove the exhaust manifold and 5 of the 11 bolts snapped as did on of the ones that go to the exhaust pipe clamp. I am sure this is going to be fun getting these bolts out. I went and bought an air drill and LH bits. Sprayed the broken bolts with pentrating fluid and gonna let that set in for a day or two. And to top it ll off the manifold broke into 5 different pieces. Yeah me...... :bang:
 
Sounds like it's going to be a dill-out situation. It's not hard to find exhaust manifolds. There are a lot of sixes in the yards. New castings are available too. NPD for example.
 
Will an exhaust manifold from a 74 200 work on a 65 200? I found one locally for 40 bucks. If not I will have to get the one for 64ranchero. Either way no issue, just trying to save a little cash.
 
It should be the same but check were the head pipe bolts up some are differant ie donut or flat gasket etc.
 
Well I spent the day drilling out the old bolts and putting the new gasket and manifold on. Night and day difference in the idle and response.
 
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