Exhaust port divider install question

blueroo

Well-known member
Can the exhaust port divider be installed with the cylinder head on the block? I imagine it would be a bit harder than with the head off, but can it be done nonetheless?
 
Sure it can. A mirror will help with the fitment. Are you 100% sure it's worth the effort in your application?
 
I'm not 100% sure, but I'm going to be replacing the exhaust manifold gasket soon so I figured if I have the manifold off anyhow I might as well try it.
 
I don't weld, alas, so I hauled my brand stinkin' new long block to a welder in the back of my pickup. I had ground and shaped port divider first so it dropped right in. The welder took the time to criticize my reasons and assured me that it would break loose in 5 minutes.

Then he stuffed a couple rags in the exhaust ports and ground a shallow wedge shaped relief about 3/8" deep at each of the outside contact points (3 in all). He fired up the welder and tacked it in place at the outside edge, just filling the little triangles and without going all the way down the throat. He cleaned up the mating surface with a couple touches of the grinder and I was good to go. Didn't even take it outta the truck.

It has not broken out yet after four years. I ran a fine file over the joints before bolting up the headers just to make sure I had no high spots. Use a thick gasket and the orange gasket seal when you put the headers on.

If you are using the stock exhaust manifold, it will be warped. Start tightening in the center and work your way out in a spiral/circular pattern alternating one side to the other. Retighten a day or two later.
 
I took my head to a machine shop and they heated up the area with a torch first and then tigged it it-been in a couple years with no problems. I have heard of high temp adhesives?
 
Installation instructions for the Hooker - header installation kit, recommend an "Interfeence Fit". They state the divider should be ground to fit with a few 'thousanths left protruding to sandwich the divider in.

Powerband

PORTDIVIDER1WEB.jpg
 
I doubt it as the area to be welded has to be heated cherry red by torch prior to welding-I would think this would destroy the gasket.
 
Possible? Sure. I could do it.. if I can weld a crack in the block w/ the block still in the car I guess you could do that too. You don't need to heat anything red hot.

But, welding this pig Iron sucks in the first place, and given the questionable merit of the port divider, I wouldnt waste my time.
 
Ian's getting a little testy tonight. First distributors and now port dividers. Gotta lay off the triple mocha joes before bedtime. Try the warm buttermilk and horehound drops. Takes the edge off a mood.
 
ludwig":vuvxq9vn said:
Ian's getting a little testy tonight. First distributors and now port dividers. Gotta lay off the triple mocha joes before bedtime. Try the warm buttermilk and horehound drops. Takes the edge off a mood.

Hey, I just tell it like I see it. And I don't drink caffeine.

Yet.

I start 3 weeks of 12 hour graveyards this weekend.
 
do you need the divider with headers? i just got headers and i just rebuilt my head, but i didnt put in a divider. so do i need one and has anybody noticed a difference with it?

i can weld, but im thinking i would warp my head.
 
It won't warp the head if you just tack it in front like the guy did to mine. For belt n' suspenders, tack weld it in place and then do the interference fit thing and leave just a little bit sticking out, like 1/32" for the gasket pressure to hold it in.

I doubt if anyone has actually tested it. You would have to have two Falcons or Stangs or Broncs or whatever with identical specs and run them side by side, recording the data points. You could do it first without then with and record your specs or do the 'seat of the pants test.' But you probably wouldn't really remember what it was like before, unless it was really doggy.

If you are asking whether it will make a rocket out of a brick, well, the answer is no. It may help a little. I don't even know if it 'probably' helps. It might help more than indexing the sparkplugs on an other wise stock motor. On the other hand, it probably doesn't hurt to leave it out. If you have already put your headers in, don't take them back off to put it in. If you haven't yet, then what the hey. Go for it.
 
So essentially I'd be looking at between $15 and $25 for the divider, at most an hour of trimming and between $30 and $50 for the machine shop to weld it in.

I'm beginning to think the cost and effort outweighs the gain.

Can anyone prove otherwise? I mean has anyone on this board actually tested before and after?
 
I'm beginning to think the cost and effort outweighs the gain.

Short form, yes. On the other hand, if you haven't put all that stuff together yet, it won't hurt.
 
I do believe someone has dyno tested before and after, and the results were that it didn't do crap.

I could be mistaken however, but I seem to recall seeing that...

There are certainly better things to drop 50-80$ on with your car.

Like gas.
 
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