exhaust valves

[buzzA4]

First question from a newbie...

I'm replacing the cylinder head on a '66 200 all stock. I found a source that will sell me a rebuilt E0BE head with a 3-angle job, hardened seats, etc and .075 milled off for $225 with core trade in.

I plan on upgrading the performance gradually and inexpensively. Head and cam, now. Headers and 2v carb later on.

My question is for the budget upgrade, will there be a noticeable performance difference, either now or later with the headers, if I increase the exhaust valve size by using the 1.467" intake valves as exhaust valves or going with the 1.5" exhaust valves?

The head guys will resize the exhaust for no extra charge, if I send them the valves.

(...As I write this, I guess I know the answer: 1.8" intake and 1.5" exhaust stainless valves...but I have limited funds.)

But before I get completely carried away, I think I'll save the $90-$160 bucks for the large valve sets and put that money toward headers.

I am also about to commit to a FSPP cam CSC-264-10-DHS, with the dual grind 264/274. Am I right to think that the 274 exhaust duration will provide better performance with stock exhaust manifold and pipes than the 264 duration. I plan on going to headers somewhere down the road.


What do you think? Anyone....

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Buzz:

That price sounds about right to me. Prices vary considerably from area to area. You would be wise to specify a back cut on the intake valves. It won't cost much more, and is worth it.

The dual pattern cam will help the poor exhaust characteristics of these heads. The 1.5" exhaust valves from FSPP is the way to go. We used the 144 intake valves bechause we didn't have any other choice back then. the 144 intakes are harder to find and more expensive,new, than Mike's SSI 1.5" exhaust valves.

Both will lend themselves to headers, and a higher rpm range. Headers and larger exhaust valves will give a noticeable increase at all rpms. Cam at higher rpms.

The order of priority for more power under 6,000 rpm would be-
1. The head with 3 angle seats and back cut intakes, with a port divider installed.
2. the Dual pattern cam from Mike.
3. headers
4. 1.75" intake valves (Stock in the E0 head) and 1.50" exhaust.

Keep CR at 9:1 or slightly more, improved intake and ignition to compliment.

That's my two cents, for what it's worth.

Adios, David

 

[CobraSix]

For that price, I'd jump all over it personally. To get a head rebuilt where I live is $250, without having to replace any guides or enlarging valves. If he is willing to enlarge the valves (still 3 angle and hardened seats) for no additional charge, I'd go for it now.

MY philosophy on upgrades is upgrade the internals first. I try to only open a system up once and upgrade everything in there once. Sometimes it may lead to slower short term gains, but I feel i the long run it will save me a lot of money since I won't have to open some of these sytems again. When I upgrade a system, I go max on that system, one system at a time for the most part. For example:

1) Aussie Head. I had it milled true and enlarged valves all at the same time. Got Big Al to get the intake modified to a 4V style intake.

2) Ignition. I went from my pertronix to DS2, 8mm wires, and MSD Digital 6+ controller.

3) Current project I debated a lot. I have 2 sets of brakes for the front end of my car. A set of 68 5 lug drum brakes with only 3k miles on them, completely rebuilt with bearings and all which I got for free. I also have a set of 65 GT disc brakes in need of full rebuild. Now there is the cheap way and the way I want it in the end. Since I want disc brakes in the end and only want to tear the front apart once, I'm spending the extra $$ to do it right the first time.

But that's just me. I'm a little sick...

Slade