Falcon down again
- Thread starter turbo250chick
- Start date
michael_cini
Well-known member
Sorry to hear about your engine problems. But, wow, pulling the whole thing in 80 minutes, that is amazing!
We could've easily done it faster! But we weren't in a hurry!
I picked up the block on Monday from the Machine shop. Just needed a sleeve in #5. We couldn've just bored it out a bit more to clean it up, but I didn't want to reduce the cyl. wall thickness anymore that we have too!
I tried out a new Machine shop this time. The last one pissed my off on the last job. Just took WAY to long to perform a easy task. (turn the cam snout to match a SBF). So I asked around for some recommendations from fellow racers.
So the new shop repaired the block in a week and most of that time was waiting for the sleeve to arrive. So I'll dump more work his way for sure!
So we're ready for reassembly other than we still need JE Pistons to hurry up and send us a new slug.
We'll assemble it this weekend with everything except #5 piston and rod.
Later,
Will
I picked up the block on Monday from the Machine shop. Just needed a sleeve in #5. We couldn've just bored it out a bit more to clean it up, but I didn't want to reduce the cyl. wall thickness anymore that we have too!
I tried out a new Machine shop this time. The last one pissed my off on the last job. Just took WAY to long to perform a easy task. (turn the cam snout to match a SBF). So I asked around for some recommendations from fellow racers.
So the new shop repaired the block in a week and most of that time was waiting for the sleeve to arrive. So I'll dump more work his way for sure!
So we're ready for reassembly other than we still need JE Pistons to hurry up and send us a new slug.
We'll assemble it this weekend with everything except #5 piston and rod.
Later,
Will
thats messed up do you use forged pistons
Will and Kelly how is the repair going?
Have you given any thoughts to my theory that no counterweights on throws 2 and 5 make those pistons run hotter due to lack of oil cooling? How about trying piston oilers at those spots and maybe number 1 for good measure?
I'm waiting to put my engine together... because I want you to be the guinea pig.
Does it seem like the full floating pistons helped wear and tear on the cylinder walls or just too early to tell yet?
Stay positive. If it were easy everybody would be doing it.
Have you given any thoughts to my theory that no counterweights on throws 2 and 5 make those pistons run hotter due to lack of oil cooling? How about trying piston oilers at those spots and maybe number 1 for good measure?
I'm waiting to put my engine together... because I want you to be the guinea pig.
Does it seem like the full floating pistons helped wear and tear on the cylinder walls or just too early to tell yet?
Stay positive. If it were easy everybody would be doing it.
Ya, we've had the motor back together for a month now. Well....almost a month!
We raced it back in Nov. 20-22 up in Vegas. Kelly qualified in the middle of the pack with a .044 light and her first pass and best time of the weekend was a 11.75@118. And it never went that fast again.
Mechanically the motor is working just fine. Even my custom SBF timing set is working perfect! Overall the car was working very well....but it just wouldn't go!
We worked on the carb the entire weekend trying to get the car to leave. And the more we worked on it the worse it got! The Air/Fuel ratio was dead on the entire pass, but the engine woule stumble out of the hole and cough'n sputter for a bit while Kelly was trying to keep it running.
After losing in the first round, we came to the conclusion that we had way to much water in the E85. I'm now tracking down a Hydrometer so I can check the specific gravity of the fuel before I buy it!
We reassembled the engine in the same basic method. Same cam, same cam timing, same timing set even! The only new items where the bearings, a new JE Forged piston in #5, and a sleeve for #5. Other than that...same engine.
No, I haven't checked into the crank throws and piston cooling. But it would make sense! I have looked into some squirters to help cool the pistons. Just haven't got around to doing the modifications to a block to get them to work.
Later,
Will
We raced it back in Nov. 20-22 up in Vegas. Kelly qualified in the middle of the pack with a .044 light and her first pass and best time of the weekend was a 11.75@118. And it never went that fast again.
Mechanically the motor is working just fine. Even my custom SBF timing set is working perfect! Overall the car was working very well....but it just wouldn't go!
We worked on the carb the entire weekend trying to get the car to leave. And the more we worked on it the worse it got! The Air/Fuel ratio was dead on the entire pass, but the engine woule stumble out of the hole and cough'n sputter for a bit while Kelly was trying to keep it running.
After losing in the first round, we came to the conclusion that we had way to much water in the E85. I'm now tracking down a Hydrometer so I can check the specific gravity of the fuel before I buy it!
We reassembled the engine in the same basic method. Same cam, same cam timing, same timing set even! The only new items where the bearings, a new JE Forged piston in #5, and a sleeve for #5. Other than that...same engine.
No, I haven't checked into the crank throws and piston cooling. But it would make sense! I have looked into some squirters to help cool the pistons. Just haven't got around to doing the modifications to a block to get them to work.
Later,
Will
I was going to suggest a colder plug in number 2 and 5, and saw you had thought about that in a previous reply. Did you end up doing that? I pulled my plugs a few days ago, and number 2 and 5 looked to be running hotter that the others, but then again, I do not have my motor blue-printed or build like you guys! Were you going to scavenge some squirters from a japanese powerplant, as they are easily found in a number of available offerings: Toyota 2ZZ, Honda B16, B18, Nissan SR20, VQ35HR. Just some suggestions, you probably already have a plan..
So far I haven't swapped out the plugs in #2 & #5. I have them already and I'll probably do it this Sat. I think we're going out to SIR here in Tucson to make few passes and try some homemade E85. By homemade I mean a mix 4 gallons of alcohol, and 1 gallon of 110 octane race gas. Technically it'll be E80!
The next engine we build will probably have some piston squirters in it. And you're right, there are a bunch of different ones out there! Just need to find one that the easiest to make work!
Later,
Will
The next engine we build will probably have some piston squirters in it. And you're right, there are a bunch of different ones out there! Just need to find one that the easiest to make work!
Later,
Will
turbo250chick
New member
So, We put colder plugs 2 and 5, and ran our 4:1 ratio alcohol to race gas combo (homemade E85). 1st pass with the 600 cfm carb and it launched like gang busters! Will said he saw daylight under the tire at launch.!! Ran a 12 second pass, but not quite right. Actually through the traps at 83 mph as the carb hat blew off! Tried to tune the 600cfm, but just could not get it right. Swapped back to the 450cfm. Ran 10.89 at 123 mph at 4100 density altidude!!! 15 lbs boost. This was our best pass in Tucson.
Our conclusion is that our problems in Vegas were entirely due to the water contamination in the E85. Our next goal is to get the 600cfm tuned and 10.60s. On a positive note, the car is not broke and ready to test in the near future!!
Kelly
Our conclusion is that our problems in Vegas were entirely due to the water contamination in the E85. Our next goal is to get the 600cfm tuned and 10.60s. On a positive note, the car is not broke and ready to test in the near future!!
Kelly
Will and Kelly,
It's nice to hear good news for a change. Don't get over confident with the colder plugs. I'm sure it can't hurt. I ran Autolite racing BF 22's and even tried some 12's - these were the old numbers and they were stupid cold - had to change them frequently and still had issues with the trouble cylinders and the plugs never looked like they were stressed at all. Also, I know your car is quiet but I can guarantee you that you can't always hear the detonation. I don't read plugs very well but what I would suggest doing is keeping an eye on the pistons and bore where you had previous problems. Use a lightbulb, mirror, scope, whatever and watch for erosion. Hopefully you can figure out this issue. Like you said, crossfire is always a consideration. Happy tuning.
P.S. If your class allows it, saw off your downpipe just past the firewall. That will get you your 10.60's.
It's nice to hear good news for a change. Don't get over confident with the colder plugs. I'm sure it can't hurt. I ran Autolite racing BF 22's and even tried some 12's - these were the old numbers and they were stupid cold - had to change them frequently and still had issues with the trouble cylinders and the plugs never looked like they were stressed at all. Also, I know your car is quiet but I can guarantee you that you can't always hear the detonation. I don't read plugs very well but what I would suggest doing is keeping an eye on the pistons and bore where you had previous problems. Use a lightbulb, mirror, scope, whatever and watch for erosion. Hopefully you can figure out this issue. Like you said, crossfire is always a consideration. Happy tuning.
P.S. If your class allows it, saw off your downpipe just past the firewall. That will get you your 10.60's.
turbo250chick
New member
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, we could shorten the exhaust, but as we have said before, we want to stay fully streetable, even at the track, full interior, and still get into the 10.60's. We are checking the plugs regularly. We also did a compression test between passes last time just to check. All cylinders checked from 120-130psi. Now, we're just waiting for the next test and tune to learn some more. Meanwhile, Will is going to start working on his next project. 8)
Kelly
Kelly
