feedback carb

[63comet]

Heh everyone, I have just installed a 250 in my 63 comet and as you all know there are clearance problems to deal with. My problem right now is that I have no clearance for the carb. Using the standard adapter for the one barrel, along with the carter one barrel, I can't close the hood. I have a head which I intend to adapt a 2 barrel directly to, but that is not going to happen real quick. My question is, can I use a holley 1946, feedback, (its actually a 6145 holley), if so, what do I do to the vent seal plunger that has power going to it ? I have 2 of these, that have been rebuilt, and I am anxious to drive it until I can finish the other head. Sorry for the long, dragged out explanation, but if anyone knows, I would appreciate it. Thanks

PS. I also have several 6200 series carbs that are the feedback versions of the 5200 holley/weber, with a similar problem. Just looking for any info.

 

[63comet]

Any one know if they will work?

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy 63Comet:

I've messed with the #1946 Holley carbs only enough to get frustrated and go back to pre-#1946. Not only are there taps and ports for who-know-what, but the range of adjustability, if available at all, is limited.

Consider yourself Christopher Columbus "going where no man has gone before". IF you can get it worked out satisfactorily please report your solutions.

I have several more #1946s if you need them.

Sorry, I'm no help. Good luck and keep us posted.

Adios, David

 

[63comet]

David, Thanks for the reply, I think I will just bite the bullet and take the head to the machine shop today and drop it off and have the log milled off flat and install the adapter and go with that. I just wanted to do all the work myself and not have to rely on someone doing the work for me, but I just don't have the time if I want to drive it this summer. Again, thanks for the reply.

 

[Anonymous]

Hey, '63:

The vacuum port on top of that 1946 is the "fumes trap" that goes to the vacuum cannister on the fender in Fairmonts, etc. You can either run it to manifold vacuum, thru a small restrictor, or leave it open if you raise the float level slightly.

The port on the passenger side (little bent tube) is the port vacuum. The port on the driver's side is venturi vacuum, used to switch the EGR valve on. Just plug it for non-smog use. The hot-idle compensator, under the little cover plate on the driver's side (toward the front), needs to be well sealed or you will have a rough idle.

Set the air screw at about 1-1/2 turns out for starters: you will find the carb runs rich from about 1/8 throttle thru 1/2 throttle ranges. and this will make it blubber when you're coming down from highway speed to an idle situation. After about a minute, it will clear itself out again, but it won't help you MPG any.

Finally, set you timing about 2 degrees more than normal with this carb. You'll need it to keep the plugs clean!

The biggest trouble you will have, though, relates to the power valve. If you can, open the carb and cut off a turn from the spring so it won't open so easily with your normally-vented manifold...the top plates of these carbs are famous for warping from heat, which makes it so the valve won't pull shut under most driving conditions.....blubber, blubber, gulp...

 

[63comet]

Thanks for the info MarkP, I just brought the head to the machine shop yesterday for a haircut. I am having the flange milled off and I will install the 2 barrel directly to the log. Thanks for the info though.