For those with the DUI

[mraley]

What intial advance did you set your Dizzys at?

The instructions call for 12 degrees and there has been some debate between my mechanic and myself on this one.

I'm curious what everyone else has done.....Thanks, MRALEY

 

[fordconvert]

Since that looks like a GM dizzy I dont see any reason it would be any differnt than any other dizzy with a combination of mechanical and vac advance. Im not an expert but this guy has a good write up that seems logical. http://www.gofastforless.com/ Look at the index for ignition curve.

The 66 manual says 12 (+5 if needed) for an automatic trans. Thats the area im in on mine with a 78 duraspark and a stock engine.

 

[falcon fanatic]

I just installed mine over the weekend and set it at 12. It has 24 degrees of advance at 3,000, so that makes my total advance 36, which seems like a good starting point. However, I was running 16 degerees initial advance with my duraspark, which topped out around 36, also. I'm not getting any pinging that I can tell, right now, so I might try pushing in a couple of degrees more.

 

[Funky Cricket]

the way I look at it is.

start @ 14, go up or down as needed based on the performance, and fuel milage of the car, and of course avoid pinging.

 

[mraley]

This is where the difference of opinion comes in. With 24 degrees of adavnce at 3000 RPMs, which makes the total adance 36, my mechanic thinks that pushing it any further is a recipe for disaster. Being that he has 40 years doing this against my 2 years and "oops" forgot he controls my engine warranty I am leaning on his side.

That's why I'm asking....Thanks

 

[Mustang Boy]

i say u let him do wut he wants and when u get it home adjust it to where u want it and if it breaks just put it back where it was when he did it

 

[Zorm]

Ok call me stupid on this one.
My timing mark baracket goes from 0-10. Do I just guess where 12 and 14 are? Also, would the marks indicate BTDC or ATDC so with that said, should the timing be set BTDC? so then I would need to gess the other way where I have no marks what so ever?
Please make this clear as mud

sorry for the small steal of the thread marley

 

[Anonymous]

I started mine out at 8 and now I'm up to 14. Anything more and it seems to want to run on and anything less and power seems to be down a tad so I think I'm right in the ball park!

Still have to regap my spark plugs to 55 thousandths though...

Anyone using the custom wire looms? I was going to get some, but I kinda like mine better without.

Just a FYI which you guys have probably allready figured out...

I had a heck of a time reusing my original distributor hold down clamp hex head bolt, so I finally got the idea to replace it with a allen head bolt....much easier to tighten up!

Later,

Doug

 

[Funky Cricket]

steal #2: I always replace the ford caliper bolts with allen bolts frist time I do a brake job.

i had the problem in my old 80 capri, if I went past 14 or 15 deg it would desiel (keep running)

 

[james singleton]

I have a few questions to everyone concerning timing. I have a 66' - 200c.i. and my manual says 6degrees BTC for a manual transmission and 10degrees BTC for an automatic. I keep seeing various posts where alot of you out there are well up over 10degrees with your initial timing. I am wondering what else besides what type of transmission you have determines these larger initial timing degrees. Is it the type of distributor you are using (stock or otherwise?); does it matter whether you are using points or electronic ignition? My manual also list a gap of 35 for the spark plugs. Mustang_Geezer, A gap of 55 must be for electronic ignition I presume? I like the idea of an allen-bolt for the distributor clamp!

 

[Mercury Mike]

Zorm - The marks indicate * before top dead center. The mark closest to the driver side will be TDC, and then when you add more degrees btdc, the engine will speed up, and the timing mark will move towards the passenger side of the car.

Get a timing light that you can dial in. You can set the timing with the light, and it will tell you right where it needs to be, then move the distributor and get it right there and bam, timing's gonna be correct. =)

Hope this helps.

 

[Zorm]

great, I already bought a light I can't dial in!
thanks 65stang200

 

[Mercury Mike]

If you just got it, you can still take it back. But yeah, you will be okay to estimate the 2*. Just look at how far apart the marks are on the block, and then estimate where 12* is.

 

[Anonymous]

James,

Yep! .055 is what the spark plug gap is supposed to be set at according to the DUI website.

I had my Duraspark/MSD set at .045

With electronic ignition you can set a wider gap than you can with stock points

Hers what DUI has to say about it,

Topic 5: Distributor Installation And Setting The Timing
If you are installing a DUI distributor into an engine that has an ignition system presently, then this simple procedure will have your engine running in no time. On the old distributor, remove the distributor cap and the vacuum advance hose. Note the position of the rotor. We suggest cranking the engine over until the rotor faces the firewall and mark it with chalk. Remove the distributor hold-down clamp and bolt. Pull the distributor up and out of the engine noting the postion of the rotor as the distributor clears the engine. With the cap off of the new DUI distributor, position the rotor to where it was when the distributor was just removed from the engine. Slide the distributor down into the engine. Be sure the rotor turns back to the original position (mark on firewall). If the oil pump drive does not engage, check that the rotor is pointing in the correct direction. If not, repeat the installation procedure. If it still doesn't engage, bump the engine over until the distributor drive drops into the oil pump drive. Reinstall the hold-down clamp and bolt finger tight. Install the distributor cap and transfer the plug wires. It is recommended to open the plug gaps up to .055" and this would be a good time to change them.
We recommend setting your initial timing at 12 degrees BTDC while the engine is idleing very slow (+ or - 600 RPM) and with the vacuum advance disconnected

Later,

Doug

 

[wsa111]

Your question is very complex, with your camshaft & depending is it degreed in with 4 degrees advance or straight up???

Also what is your compression ratio?

Lets say its close to 9.5-9.8 with the aussie head your mechanic is right with the 12 degrees initial + 24 centrifigul + 36 total. If the camshaft is installed 4 degrees advanced the intake valve will be closed 4 degrees earlier & you may have to retard the initial 2 degrees.

Lets throw in an X factor.

If you have spark knock at part throttle you will need a vacuum advance can with less advance or screw in the adjuster in the vacuum nipple further so the advance comes in at a higher vacuum level.

When Mike gets his cylinder head out all of us will have to decrease the total advance to possibly 32 degrees total just because the modern combustion chamber design requires less advance.

Back to the vacuum advance deal, there are 2-4 vacuum advance cans available with different totals just for the duraspark.

DUI has a can available for whatever you want or just give them a call & they will advise you.

This advise is for N/A engines. The supercharged or turbo guys can use a MSD with the necessary retard necessary & that includes NOS applications.

For example my combination @ 10.25 compression ratio with a 274 camshaft advanced 4 degrees I run 20 degrees in the distributor + 16 initial = 36 total. Of course I need to use 93 octane fuel.

This a case by case deal depending what you run.

Hope this sheds some light on the situation. These specs are for you owners with highly modified engines.
V/R William