Howdy again FF:
The plastic insert creates the venturi for the 1100. The inner diameter determines the CFM and they are sized, in general, for engine size.
144 = 1.0" = 130 CFM
170 = 1.1" = 156 CFM
200 = 1.2" = 185 CFM
An exception is the '66 & '67 200 built to California Emissions standards. They got 1.1" venturi.
The venturi inserts are interchangeable, but difficult to remove intact. THis is one of the upgrades Pony Carb does to their Performance 1100s. They replace the 1.2" with a 1101 venturi which is 1.29 and is rated at 210 CFM.
The transition bog you are describing is either a lack of initial advance or (And- it could be a bit of both) the accelerator pump is not working adequately.
I forget your location/elevation, but you should have at least 12 degrees of initial advance for a stick trans, or 15 for an auto.
To check the accelerator pump function, located on the right side, remove the air cleaner, prop open the choke and have someone depress the accelerator. You should see a squirt of raw gas into the carb throat. If you do not you have discovered your problem. There are two adjustments on an 1100. One is determined by a rolled pin in the lever on the side of the float bowl. The two holes are marked "H" and "L", which refer to high (leaner) and low (richer) elevation. I seem to recall that FoMoCo used 3,500 ft as the demarcation point, but try both to see what results you get. The second is the right angle bend in the rod that goes under the bowl to the pump arm. Straightening it slightly, making it longer will length the pump diaphram travel, to a point. This is a very small adjustment, and best done with the bent rod removed. DON'T over do this one.
If this doesn't get the bog gone you will need to rebuild the carb with particular attention to the accelerator pump function. Make sure all the check balls are in their proper location(s).
The diaphram on the engine side is for engines with auto trans only. It is an anti-stall dash pot.
Don't give up now! And please check to see that the cover gasket is not interfering with the operation of the float and armature.
Adios, David
The plastic insert creates the venturi for the 1100. The inner diameter determines the CFM and they are sized, in general, for engine size.
144 = 1.0" = 130 CFM
170 = 1.1" = 156 CFM
200 = 1.2" = 185 CFM
An exception is the '66 & '67 200 built to California Emissions standards. They got 1.1" venturi.
The venturi inserts are interchangeable, but difficult to remove intact. THis is one of the upgrades Pony Carb does to their Performance 1100s. They replace the 1.2" with a 1101 venturi which is 1.29 and is rated at 210 CFM.
The transition bog you are describing is either a lack of initial advance or (And- it could be a bit of both) the accelerator pump is not working adequately.
I forget your location/elevation, but you should have at least 12 degrees of initial advance for a stick trans, or 15 for an auto.
To check the accelerator pump function, located on the right side, remove the air cleaner, prop open the choke and have someone depress the accelerator. You should see a squirt of raw gas into the carb throat. If you do not you have discovered your problem. There are two adjustments on an 1100. One is determined by a rolled pin in the lever on the side of the float bowl. The two holes are marked "H" and "L", which refer to high (leaner) and low (richer) elevation. I seem to recall that FoMoCo used 3,500 ft as the demarcation point, but try both to see what results you get. The second is the right angle bend in the rod that goes under the bowl to the pump arm. Straightening it slightly, making it longer will length the pump diaphram travel, to a point. This is a very small adjustment, and best done with the bent rod removed. DON'T over do this one.
If this doesn't get the bog gone you will need to rebuild the carb with particular attention to the accelerator pump function. Make sure all the check balls are in their proper location(s).
The diaphram on the engine side is for engines with auto trans only. It is an anti-stall dash pot.
Don't give up now! And please check to see that the cover gasket is not interfering with the operation of the float and armature.
Adios, David
