Fuel Pump

[xrwagon]

My 200 is now running a modified 250 2V head, modified alloy manifold and a modded 350 Holley, it drives well to 60-70KPH, no hesitation, pull smooth then noses over. The carb has a 62 jet and a 5.5PV, i have no tuning experience with Holleys so first thing i checked was the fuel pump and fuel bowl, its was full and the screw removed on the carb, the carb bowl was full. I was going to have it dyno tuned but don’t want to find out i need a new rule pump. Does anyone know what the factory glass bowl type full pump PSI is? What does a 350 Holley need PSI wise. I can borrow and try and set up a autometer fuel pressure gauge and either put it on the front window or rig it up inside just see what its shows. It will just be some mucking around, maybe a PV change. I did screw in the mixture screws yesterday all the way in, then backed them out 1.5 turns, now its blowing a little soot out the exhaust, so i can adjust that some more. Apart from that it will be days before i can get a vac gauge set up. It drives fine, its just under acceleration as the revs are rising it noses over, like its out of puff or fuel

 

[bubba22349]

Try doing a Fuel pump volume test, disconnect the coil wire and fuel line at the carb using a suitable container crank the engine over with the starter then measure the amount of fuel volume. Your fuel pump should be putting out a pint of fuel in 30 seconds or less if not you need to replace it. A Holley carb should work good with 3.5 to 5 PSI, you should never install a mechanical type fuel pressure gauge inside the car unless you use an isolator unit. Holley float level (wet fuel level) is set so that the fuel level is just at the bottom of the inspection hole threads with the engine idling. Good luck

 

[rbohm]

when an engine "noses over" it generally indicates that it is going lean, as you already know. i agree with doing a fuel pump volume test, i would also do a fuel pump pressure test as well. run the engine hard with a pressure gauge taped to the windshield and see if the pressure drops when the engine noses over. if it does, then you have a fuel pump problem, if not then i would change the power valve to one that opens sooner. if that doesnt correct things, then perhaps restrict the air corrector jet in the carb.

 

[xrwagon]

I asked a member of my Inline six age on FB, he runs a wild 2V headed solid cammed motor, cam is 250@50, engine turns to 7000 and he is using mechanical pump, he runs a Holley 4 barrel for now. He has TPI and Efi pumps to do yet, but mentioned he has no fuel issues, i am thinking the power valve as rhobm mentioned, and will get a gauge on it, a friend of mine who owned the carb mentioned his test told him a 2.5 but he ended up going a 5.5, so not sure what i need to go to.

 

[bubba22349]

Besides the above info to check you might also need a bigger fuel line coming from the fuel tank pickup to get the needed fuel volume. I usually use at leat a 3/8 inch line and on drag cars I make a sump for pickup (lowest point) so there is plenty of fuel volume at the rear of tank during acceleration. Good luck

 

[xrwagon]

Thats a good thought, i was going to sump my fuel tank, but instead my friend Dave was going to fabricate me a new tank. My wagon tank sits quite low and being a 1967 country wagon, has a few dents in it. Still waiting on my new air cleaner to show up, then get the nibbler out then do some tuning, might grab a 7.5 or 8.5 PV today, i have an assortment of jets on hand. Ill spend a few hours tuning later in the week, need to sort it so i can go racing.

 

[autoX65]

I believe its the holley two barrel just not being able to physically supply enough fuel. not a big enough bowl. you can start with upgrading the needle and seat to an aftermarket assembly that will allow more fuel into it but that 2300 holley will need extensive calibration to get enough fuel to the engine as well as metering block modifications and most likely air and fuel bleed metering fabrication to the carburetor.

Glad to hear you got your custom head running XRwagon! Kudos.

you need to order a air fuel ratio gauge because you are well into the unknow with your custom intake its like its own atmosphere in there so thats the only way to know whats going on to tune it out to get the correct byproduct which is the exhaust so best of luck with your tunning and please keep us updated.

Pictures would be nice to see as well but I know what your going through just be patient and delicate in the tunning process it is the most important part.

 

[bubba22349]

Thats a good thought, i was going to sump my fuel tank, but instead my friend Dave was going to fabricate me a new tank. My wagon tank sits quite low and being a 1967 country wagon, has a few dents in it. Still waiting on my new air cleaner to show up, then get the nibbler out then do some tuning, might grab a 7.5 or 8.5 PV today, i have an assortment of jets on hand. Ill spend a few hours tuning later in the week, need to sort it so i can go racing.

That's excellent that you have a good friend like that to help you on building the fuel tank! If your car is used for duel purposes (street and race) then you will need to have a vacuum gauge hooked up so you can see what the cruse vacuum is, you want the power valve rated below that or it will be dumping extra fuel in when you don't really need it. I.E. Say as an example at a steady cruse speed of 65 MPH (flat ground) let's say you have a vacuum reading of 7 then you might want to try about a 5.5 PV as a starting point. In the above post is a good point on the needle and seat I use the better quality ones that have a large window opening this allows the fuel bowl to refill faster. As for the fuel pressure vs the fuel volume in my OPIN if you have adequate fuel volume you won't need to run that high of fuel pressure on a duel purpose type car. If you and your friend build that new fuel tank you might also incorporate a fuel return line to keep the fuel fresher and cooler. Good luck of the tuning and at the races!

Edited

 

[xrwagon]

Thanks mate, i cant do much till i get my delivery as its a 9”x4” Flowtop air cleaner, i will then cut the hole in my bonnet, hook up the gauge and go for a cruise. It will have a lot of air going down its throat. Car is street/race, as a log head i have done 9 race meetings, some of these have been two day weekend ones, generally the car behaves well when its good and badly when its unhappy. It showed up a few problems the original owners made with the lack of maintenance on the car prior to me owning it, especially with seals and oil levels etc. Think i have blown every seal on the car so far. It sixty foots fairly well and my pb is 11.74 on the 1/8th mile and a 18.86 on the qtr, it should have in theory done an 18.2, not bad for 3040 pounds with me in it. Now has the tickled 2V head etc, so looking at dropping my times substantialy. I make small improvements each time between meets. Generally run a PB each time, over the 1/8th i have dropped it from 13.4 down to the 11.74 and only difference was the DUI dissy and tuning, that got me in to the high 11’s, the steel shim head gasket replacement carded me the 11.74 but car was running hot and rough, virtually put together tuned and driven straight to the track.

 

[xctasy]

My 200 is now running a modified 250 2V head, modified alloy manifold and a modded 350 Holley, it drives well to 60-70KPH, no hesitation, pull smooth then noses over. The carb has a 62 jet and a 5.5PV, i have no tuning experience with Holleys so first thing i checked was the fuel pump and fuel bowl, its was full and the screw removed on the carb, the carb bowl was full. I was going to have it dyno tuned but don’t want to find out i need a new rule pump. Does anyone know what the factory glass bowl type full pump PSI is? What does a 350 Holley need PSI wise. I can borrow and try and set up a autometer fuel pressure gauge and either put it on the front window or rig it up inside just see what its shows. It will just be some mucking around, maybe a PV change. I did screw in the mixture screws yesterday all the way in, then backed them out 1.5 turns, now its blowing a little soot out the exhaust, so i can adjust that some more. Apart from that it will be days before i can get a vac gauge set up. It drives fine, its just under acceleration as the revs are rising it noses over, like its out of puff or fuel

wait wait wait wait....don't dabble!


65 jets, 6.5 power valve is all you needa the most for 165 hp. That's what a nice 30/70 cammed 202 Holden with YT/XU1 valves and headers likes.


Fuel pump?

Classic inlines had a Carter Strip replacement that flows 250 hp, that oughta be good enough. its all in this post.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... mustang%29

Tunning a Holley? Talk with wsa111.

All this random change this and that stuff, ye gods, you just need to make sure there are no vaccum leaks, that the fuel presssure has been checked, and then tune it.

Its really that simple.


The power valve channel restrictions are huge on a 350 cfm Holley. If you decide to go above 6.5 power valve it'll over fuel often.

62 jets and 5.5 pv look great. Just make sure the power valve isn't ruptured.

 

[xrwagon]

cheers mate, it has a 62 jet and 5.5 PV, its all installed correctly, subtle changes are all thats needed, so i’ll go up to a 6.5 first and go in the jet. My air cleaner arrived, so out with the nibbler next few days. I’d post a pic if i knew how.

 

[rbohm]

Besides the above info to check you might also need a bigger fuel line coming from the fuel tank pickup to get the needed fuel volume. I usually use at leat a 3/8 inch line and on drag cars I make a sump for pickup (lowest point) so there is plenty of fuel volume at the rear of tank during acceleration. Good luck

you read my mind bubba, i was just thinking about that tonight.

 

[bubba22349]

Rbohm, I guess great minds think alike, LOL! Xrwagon, you can find everything you need to know on posting pictures in this link. Good luck

viewtopic.php?f=47&t=48863

 

[xrwagon]

While you were posting i made the new avatar, thats the motor as of today. I don’t have image hosting.

 

[bubba22349]

The Motor looks great , there are several free image hosting sites.

 

[xctasy]

cheers mate, it has a 62 jet and 5.5 PV, its all installed correctly, subtle changes are all thats needed, so i’ll go up to a 6.5 first and go in the jet. My air cleaner arrived, so out with the nibbler next few days. I’d post a pic if i knew how.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=66238&start=50

I must say I'm getting tired of the image restrictions.....

After 30 minutes of work I'm at 595x443 and it still wont let me post a picture of the radiator....

Your images may only be up to 450 pixels high.
Your images may only be up to 600 pixels wide.

I guess you'll have to use your imagination on the last picture!

One last try...A wee tiny little pic of 500xsumthin

Your images may only be up to 450 pixels high.
Your images may only be up to 600 pixels wide.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v242/ ... IM2286.jpg

Been there, done that.

The solution is a bit tedius, but Addo and Asa showed me how. "Just" run the main image copied twice, then spend time changing each image to thumbnail.


The rule is there is fix total cost of the powerboard package. Although a real bear, it fixes the time taken to start up each page.



Then they can be as big as you please. Two things. You have to save periodically, and secondly, you have to have no one else within 50 feet, becasue if you get confused with all the image syntax, you'll swear like a mad man.

 

[xrwagon]

Took me 15 minutes to do the avatar lol.......................Cats crawling on trees, five time five is twenty-five!!!!!!!...........Shawshank Redemption quote

 

[xctasy]

yOU dA mAAAAAAAANNNNNNN!!!!!!!! :wow: :mrgreen: z: :checks:

Bet you play cricket like that to you crazy Aussie....

I always say to myself...
gotta have a Slash Dot Dash,
my name is Fatboy Slim
then...
My name is url
url needs to go in brackets
url equals
wubbleuwewhateverthafunk
img
wubbleuwewhateverthafunk
slash img
slash url


And there's a th_ there just to totally mess you up

Gotta love httml :rolflmao:

 

[65coupei6]

Have you made any progress on a solution? I am interested since my setup is very close to yours.
But, I don't seem to have any problems.

 

[xrwagon]

I have made inroads, one was the glass fuel bowl when i checked my manual (forgot to read it first) says the fuel pump has 6 PSI at idle stock. I rigged up an Autometer fuel pressure gauge and it read 5PSI at idle. Then dropped to 3 PSI under acceleration. I found a small kink, got that back up to 5 PSI under load. Changed jets, PV again. Ran very lean, then changed again, ended up with 66 Jets in it with a 8.5 PV, ran rich but ran. When the parts store opened i rang around and got some prices on a later model XE falcon crossflow pump, there are two, one is for carb and other has a tank return line, i went carby. This worked great, 6.8 PSI at idle and dropped to 6.4 PSI under load. Next issue was fuel vaporising when cruising around. The heavy brass t/piece dragged the line down to the manifold. I changed the line from 5/16ths to 3/8ths from pump to carb, changed the Holley fitting and elbow also, brought some copper pipe insulation and put that on with zip ties. Its running sweet now, need to redo timing as its advancing way to quick, pulled it off and blocked it for now. Hope that helps. Careful when cutting fuel hose, some will end up in float bowl, had that also. I dropped back to 63 Jets