getting 'er ready to be magnafluxed & hot tanked.

michael_cini

Well-known member
hey guys,

just getting ready to take the head(s) to be magnafluxed and hot tanked. i have 2 questions.

in the picture below, does this fitting come off and does it just screw out? i'm a bit worried about trying to get it out, don't want it to break off. will it be needed later when the head is installed on the engine?

2v.2.jpg


when i took off the intake these 2 bolts would not come out. what is the best way to get them out without wrecking the thread or the bolt? and is it necassary to take 'em out before i take it in to the shop?

2v.1.jpg


thank you!
 
The water fitting comes off, just wrench on it. If you destroy it by some chance you can get them anywhere. The same goes fo rthe studs.
 
Pop out all the freeze plugs, too. That'll keep the parts cleaners honest. :wink:
 
seriously, take out the freeze plugs? if so, what's the best way to do that? wow, do i take off the rockers too, cause some of the head bolts are still on and i can't get 'em off without taking off the rockers.

thanks for your help, this is all new to me!

addo":1mc7kg9z said:
Pop out all the freeze plugs, too. That'll keep the parts cleaners honest. :wink:
 
Bare head means bare head. The rockers need to be dissembled as the pedestals can't be hot tanked. Take good pictures first, and note every washer and bolt's position.

Take a hammer and large-ish flat blade screwdriver, and drive the edge of the freeze plug inwards at one point. Be careful not to damage the side of its bored hole. As one side is driven in, the other should pivot outwards. Then you pry the plug out.

Does this help?
 
thanks adam, yes that does help! so the valves stay on?


addo":iqth216g said:
Bare head means bare head. The rockers need to be dissembled as the pedestals can't be hot tanked. Take good pictures first, and note every washer and bolt's position.

Take a hammer and large-ish flat blade screwdriver, and drive the edge of the freeze plug inwards at one point. Be careful not to damage the side of its bored hole. As one side is driven in, the other should pivot outwards. Then you pry the plug out.

Does this help?
 
hey
if you have a valve spring compressor easy put it on compres the spring take to collets out release.
if not your in trouble super dodgy way is put big screw driver through stand on to compress the spring use little srew to pop collets outs.
oh and you'll have to put a heap of news paper in the combustion chmber to hold the valve up for when you compress it.
then you have to get the guides out but id get the machine shop to do that and what ever you do dont use kmac (i think thats what there called) guides there crap and killed 2 of my engines now due to the brase coming lose and floging out and filling the pots with lots of metal :x
mark
 
Go and buy a valve spring compressor. NAPA's SER-380 is a good visual example of what to look for, but they may be found similar much cheaper. The cheaper ones are more prone to sideways twisting, so take it easy (no real risks with an iron head, though).

If you ask nicely, the engineering place (rebuilders) may pull the valave springs for you, saving the tool cost. But then, should you want to CC the head, you need to go through it all again. Price vs convenience - can't tell you what your personal choice will be. :wink:

Simple tool and really handy. To compress the valve springs on an assembled motor, you need a different tool but I can't advocate that type for your basic needs.
 
AutoZone loans these for free. Remember Michael the freeze plugs will be replaced so destroying them to get them out is no big deal.
 
I use a spark plug socket and mallet to get the valves out. You need to make sure you have a nice clear space to ensure you don't lose the collets.

And I have a valve spring compressor... :oops: But the other way is pretty quick, and it satisfies my need for bodgeyness. :lol:
 
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