Yes, having it in front may make access a bit more difficult, but it almost eliminates any chance of mechanical issues.
Mpg tanked again
- Thread starter InlineDave87
- Start date
Bronctopia
Well-known member
This.
Automotive engines are further down the Longevity/Value curve than Big Diesels.
But since we in this Forum are in the business of speculative post-production "re-engineering"....
I believe our engines ( like most automotive ), have a form of re-circulating by-pass that is the heater core circuit.
I wonder if a 2 thermostat system could be adapted from this? Possibly with an insulated pressurized reservoir (pass car overflow tank?)
In this pipe dream, the heater circuit might have a lower temp T-stat to isolate the reservoir during warmup, and blend in its capacity up to the higher cut-in temp of the factory position T-stat.
Once the coolant exceeds this the main T-stat housing would open the much bigger factory flow through radiator, just as with the current design.
PSIG
Well-known member
In the context of the OP's issue, which is normal temperature operation at 20°F ambient - that should not be an issue, and is fully anticipated in standard factory Ford vehicles. I don't have that issue below 20°. Does anyone else here have problems reaching normal temperatures and a nice toasty blower at 20°F? An airflow blocker should not be required.
A quality thermostat does not surge cold water in, and only barely opens a little at rated temperature. If it's just hot enough, it will only just open. That's why the rating is often called "cracking" temperature, as it only cracks open a hair. Test this with your thermostat in a pot of water on the stove (standard test procedure). As it approaches rated temperature, watch it. You probably can't even see it's open at all without a light to see the little crack-open space. We see this in data every time, and only poor quality, defective or damaged thermostats, or when they are not fully immersed in coolant (air bubble) surge or cycle enough to be a concern.
Which is exactly what a properly-working thermostat does in a I6 or V8 inboard boat, or your truck. It squeaks out hot water only when it's hot enough, and only then is there any room for cold water to get in, which is mixed into the constantly-flowing coolant being recirculated through the engine, heater core, etc. No shock. Like a drip I.V. into the constant blood flow in your veins.
A quality thermostat does not surge cold water in, and only barely opens a little at rated temperature. If it's just hot enough, it will only just open. That's why the rating is often called "cracking" temperature, as it only cracks open a hair. Test this with your thermostat in a pot of water on the stove (standard test procedure). As it approaches rated temperature, watch it. You probably can't even see it's open at all without a light to see the little crack-open space. We see this in data every time, and only poor quality, defective or damaged thermostats, or when they are not fully immersed in coolant (air bubble) surge or cycle enough to be a concern.
I have the same temperature issues as the OP. The gauge (verified by a mechanical gauge) only runs in the middle when ambient temperature is over 100 degrees.I have tried a couple parts store thermostats. Thanks for the quality thermostat recommendations.
My original plan was to use a heater core valve t'd into the radiator hoses to produce a controlled hot water bypass. After reading how you don't want cold water going into the front of the engine, I think I will still rig up a bypass if I ever get around to it even with a quality thermostat.
My original plan was to use a heater core valve t'd into the radiator hoses to produce a controlled hot water bypass. After reading how you don't want cold water going into the front of the engine, I think I will still rig up a bypass if I ever get around to it even with a quality thermostat.
PSIG
Well-known member
Just use care that the tee must pass full bypass flow either to the heater core or looped-back (or both), as reduced re-circulation flow can cause hot spots or cold shock during warmup. If it is modified to bypass the thermostat, it will delay warmup, but slightly improve maximum cooling capability. Probably not a good tradeoff.
If the t'stat is closed that won't help. There's no flow in either hose until it opens. Your idea will work if the T is before the Tstat into the lower hose. It would help with over-cooled radiator, but not the initial stagnant system
They are effective. Some semi trucks had them before diesels had the full-flow bypass t'stats I described above.
Bronctopia
Well-known member
Dunno much about Toy trucks.
Is this actuated by something other than airflow?
Seems a little spendy for a seasonal Molson front.
Bronctopia
Well-known member
I'm gonna guess it is controlled by Yota's EMS computer?
To juggle the various airflow demands of radiator, AC condenser, trans cooler, and maybe oil and intercooler if so equipped?
InlineDave87
Famous Member
Ok i may have goofed. Originally i thought the milage foe the trip was only 180. Turns out to really be 220 before i fill up again, this trip being 13.4 gal giving me close to 16.5 mpg. And today heading up there i had a strong head wind which gave me more drag and kept my coolant cooler than it should have been. Same went for the return trip but i had a tail wind this time and mpg looked better. Wind was bad enough a tractor trailer nearly tipped in front of me, im assuming he was empty but still thats a lot of wind.
InlineDave87
Famous Member
Most likely, at most gas stations it says E10 mixture. And while 16.5 mpg is fine, im also trying to be as economical as possible since i use it for my work truck.
InlineDave87
Famous Member
I ordered it on amazon. Good place to get factory parts cheaper. It hasnt came in. I think they sent it thru the post office and they lost it. Still waiting for it to come in.
InlineDave87
Famous Member
. I found a good spot in front of the radiator. This should work till the post office finds my thermostat.
InlineDave87
Famous Member
Over a week and the motorcraft thermostat never came in. Flowkooler thermostat it is, should be in by next wednesday. If the motorcraft one shows up ill just keep it as a spare. I need some of these checks to come in so i can order some more parts.
Good idea.
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