Going with a holly 350 2 barrel...I think? Advice?

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Go with a holly 350 2 barrel?

I posted a few days ago about having a shot 1100. Think I'm going to swap to a 2 barrel. The car is a 67 Mustang convertible, manual trans, rebuilt 200 engine, hot cam, Clifford dual exhaust header. I have read many posts on this subject.

1) Clifford sells an adapter that solves the height problems with this swap. You remove the old spacer first. It does mount the carb sideways? Does this cause problems? If so, what? Also, it appears that the adapter is set-up for a 67 mustangs linkage. That solves a major problem with the swap.

Here is a link to the adapter:

http://www.cliffordperformance.net/Merc ... _Code=F200

Here is a link to a website comparing adapters: (Very cool site)

http://home.centurytel.net/fordfan/Falc ... rsion.html

Then I need to upgrade the distributer to non scv. Don't have a ton of money...so, can I buy a rebuilt 68 distributor for now? And do one of the other ignition upgrades later? Or is that a complete waste? The car is a weekend driver so I really don't mind points.

Please advise. And thanks a lot!
 
I got a holley 2300 and used the adapter on my head and its worked great. More performance than the 1bbl and ok fuel economy. It tunes pretty easy and makes for a good driver. You will either an electric choke or manual or none at all depending on where you live. Some people jet them for better performance I havent my plugs burn a nice tan color engine runs fine so I applied the "if it aint broken dont fix it" principle.

You could buy the 68 and later dizzy from the store and it will work ok. A far better upgrade would be the duraspark 2.You could get one from a yard for about 50 bucks for the dizzy and the ignition module. They came out in 1976-1982 and were fully electronic I got mine all new the dizzy and the igniton module for 100 bucks instead of 50 for the points unit you can go to a yard and get it out of a 200 or a 250 if your yard has them. Its simple to install mount the box run the plug and play wires from the dizzy to the box and run a 12v source to the box from the switch or use a battery relay.
Dan-
 
The links above are for 2 different situations, the stovebolt adapter is strictly for the weber or holley-weber design with the smaller base size and the clifford adapter is for the 2300 Holley base design which is larger that the weber. It will depend on which carb you are using, to determine which adapter to buy. For the 350 cfm Holley, I believe you need the clifford adapter.
 
One of the best updates I did. The 350 Holley is very easy to dial in for you motor. I started out stock out of the box. Then ended up changing powervalves due to low engine vacuum. I also went up 3 or 4 sizes on the high speed jets. As for the adapter I worked the mounting area of the head to get the Adapter to run parrel with the intake. For the throttle linkage I cut up the throttle linkage so that I could use a Lokar throttle cable.
 
i posted a topic about this a few weeks ago go check it out it will give you some ideas that we will run into (im doing the same thing)

the only difference is that i get a later model head to put on my 200 witch is way better then our stock and the carb hole went from 1 1/2 opening to a 1 3/4 opening for a bigger carb, or bigger adapter for us
 
I'm attempting to do this same process. Unfortunatley I've already bought the Stovebolt adapter and I think this will not work so well with my Holley 350. Is this true? I think I need the Clifford. So with all that said, is there anyone that knows anything on the throttle linkage as far as a idea of pieces/parts so I can go to the parts store with a correct shopping list instead of several trips

reweb":syj2ngy4 said:
Go with a holly 350 2 barrel?

I posted a few days ago about having a shot 1100. Think I'm going to swap to a 2 barrel. The car is a 67 Mustang convertible, manual trans, rebuilt 200 engine, hot cam, Clifford dual exhaust header. I have read many posts on this subject.

1) Clifford sells an adapter that solves the height problems with this swap. You remove the old spacer first. It does mount the carb sideways? Does this cause problems? If so, what? Also, it appears that the adapter is set-up for a 67 mustangs linkage. That solves a major problem with the swap.

Here is a link to the adapter:

http://www.cliffordperformance.net/Merc ... _Code=F200

Here is a link to a website comparing adapters: (Very cool site)

http://home.centurytel.net/fordfan/Falc ... rsion.html

Then I need to upgrade the distributer to non scv. Don't have a ton of money...so, can I buy a rebuilt 68 distributor for now? And do one of the other ignition upgrades later? Or is that a complete waste? The car is a weekend driver so I really don't mind points.

Please advise. And thanks a lot!
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for all of the comments! I think the key about this swap for me (and anybody with a 67) is that the clifford adapter appears to require no mods to the linkage. Also as I mentioned, you remove the old spacer so there also appears to be no height issues either.

Assuming this is correct, it seems like the carb swap would only take a couple of hours. Slap on an open element air cleaner (with no mods needed) and I'm down the road? Am I dreaming? I do have the distributer issue but that is another thing...

The clifford adapter does mount the holly carb sideways. On the site that compares the adapters the guy says this may lead to bad performance on turns. That is the only problem I can see...

* Is this really an issue?
 
The post deals with webers and to be honest that is the only carb Ive heard of it happening with. I had used a rochester 2gc a 500 cfm carb it ran good a little over carb for a mild motor so I changed to the holley 350 but it was mounted on a 45 degree angle and I never had any stalling or hesitation. I switched to the 350 holley and just used an extension arm to my existing linkage with a throttle kit from Murrays I tuned it for 10 mintes and havent touched it since. I cant get the electric choke to work correctly to save my life but thats no big deal its cold blooded for 10 minutes then it screams. If you are planning any mods I would stay away from the 1bbl remember an engine is a big air pump what goes in nmust come out most efficiently as possible the head limits that but thats another can of worms.
Dan-
 
I did some searching andfound that the poeple who had the problems mounted their carbs on 45 degree angles I mounted mine on a 90 by using the adaptor then fashioning andother 1/2 plate with flush bolts into the head the offset threaded bolts to the adapter so maybe thats why the people who have it mounted on a 90 have no probs.
 
bigcatchdaniel555":z54dbc2f said:
I did some searching andfound that the poeple who had the problems mounted their carbs on 45 degree angles I mounted mine on a 90 by using the adaptor then fashioning andother 1/2 plate with flush bolts into the head the offset threaded bolts to the adapter so maybe thats why the people who have it mounted on a 90 have no probs.
Click to expand...

Hey bigcatchdaniel555...and anyone else....

You have a holly 350 mounted sideways (not facing the front but facing the drivers side) and you have no problems?

Please reply back. I was all set to do the swap until I started to see comments about the side mount causing problems. If I spend the money and time I want it to be 100%...

Thanks to everyone for the comments!
 
Other than Just Racing , facing the Valve cover is the best for most apps, facing front may look nice and be easier to fab linkage , but not the best for performance and drivability
 
Heres pics on how mine is the adaptor sets the carb on an angle I believe this is what causes the bog. Not knowing that was the case I mounted mine on a 90 to make the linkage easier to connect. So Ive never had the problem to do this if you notice on the bottom of the adapter is a 1/2 inch piece of aluminum cost me 15 bucks the get it and have a 1bbl hole punched in it. I drilled it countersunk the holes and bolted it to the head then i drilled 2 other holes for the adator to make line up at 90 degrees. Took me about a day for everything I got my linkage idea from mustangeezers site. The carb is the way it came out of the box from holley.

I dont wanna hijack this thread but I dont think this question needs a whole thread. Can any noticeable gain be expected from milling the head for larger 1.84 and 1.56 valves and milling the head for 10:1 comp ratio.
Thanks Dan-
 
Hey Faron, what is the difference between the way Daniel has it, and the way you describe (facing the valve cover)? Is it to do with fuel flow into the metering block?

Thanks, Adam.
 
when it involves a single plane manifold ( log ) if it faces away from the valve cover it will tend to be aimed at the center cylinders at part throttle , when facing the valve cover it will shoot towards the back wall of the log , and get more evenly drawn toward ( mixed ) and pulled into the cylinders we are talking part throttle ( as most street drivin combos are , in a race setup , wide open is the same no matter how mounted, thats why Ive stated in previous posts the importance of mounting, check out the 4cyl set up ( 2.3 Ford ) and you will see my point, even the origonal one barrel is a guide
 
I dont have any problems with mine all the plugs burn tan but these old motors all have personalitys. So in the end its what ever floats your boat.
 
And a lot of the installs with the bowl facing sideways have a problem with stumbling on turns. Not all of them, but a significant number.
 
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