200ci Can anyone recomend a 2 barell carburator with adapter kit for my 200 inline 6 cylinder mustang
- Thread starter jcom4179
- Start date
This applies only to 200ci
jcom4179
Well-known member
Hey Don, thanks for the info about the distributer. I will certainly need your guidance with this project. I'm going to attach a couple of photos if the kit and where I'm planning to purchase it from. Just want to make double sure that they're selling me the correct kit. Let me know what you think
Thanks Don
Jeff
Thanks Don
Jeff
Attachments
I do see studs for the carb
. I see adapter plates. But I don’t see an adapter for a one barrel to two barrel. I also don’t see a fuel pressure regulator. I got one with the kit I got, a Webber regulator, never had an issue with it. I have heard others say get a good one, not generic china one. Will it be “ pre- tuned”? Some of the stuff you may use or may not, eg. Splice the heater hose or replace the whole thing. You will probably need more fuel plumming stuff. Get the lines and clamps for fuel injection, a little better quality. Hose clamps are solid- less apt to cut the hose. It should have directions included. What I did is use the two ends of the linkage rod included, it’s not long enough, get a piece of stainless threaded rod, cut to correct length and use the two ends. You can also use a nut/washer with a hole drilled in it/ nut (to lock it in place) for a throttle return spring. It is fully adjustable by running the nuts/washer to tension the spring as desired, hook the other end of the spring to a simple bracket on the carb base mount. I have photos, but have to fire up the desktop 
. I see adapter plates. But I don’t see an adapter for a one barrel to two barrel. I also don’t see a fuel pressure regulator. I got one with the kit I got, a Webber regulator, never had an issue with it. I have heard others say get a good one, not generic china one. Will it be “ pre- tuned”? Some of the stuff you may use or may not, eg. Splice the heater hose or replace the whole thing. You will probably need more fuel plumming stuff. Get the lines and clamps for fuel injection, a little better quality. Hose clamps are solid- less apt to cut the hose. It should have directions included. What I did is use the two ends of the linkage rod included, it’s not long enough, get a piece of stainless threaded rod, cut to correct length and use the two ends. You can also use a nut/washer with a hole drilled in it/ nut (to lock it in place) for a throttle return spring. It is fully adjustable by running the nuts/washer to tension the spring as desired, hook the other end of the spring to a simple bracket on the carb base mount. I have photos, but have to fire up the desktop Attachments
jcom4179
Well-known member
Hey Don, this is why I wanted to ask you. I want to do it once and do it right. If this kit is missing parts, then maybe I should buy it from Clifford. I was going to buy a 34/36 from another forums member John for a good price, but my son talked me out of it because we decided on the 38. Thanks for the pics. Like they say a picture says a thousand words. Would you agree Clifford is probably my best bet to buy the 38 kit from. Vintage Inlines hasn't had the 38 kits in stock since I started looking at them months ago. They actually have more out of stock items than in stock, I think. In the mean time I'll check out the Clifford website.I do see studs for the carb
Thanks Don
Jeff
jcom4179
Well-known member
Hey Don, Clifford also sends the complete kit too as well as putting in the correct jets and tuning it for the 200 inline 6, right? Do you know if there price for the 38 weber kit. I just tried to find the Clifford website where the Weber kits are sold. For some reason I could not locate it. All I could find was a Clifford website, but there were no weber carburetor kits for sale. I'll keep looking.
Thanks Don
Jeff
Yes they do pre set it up
cliffordperformance.net
08-K202 Weber 38/38 DGES Carb Kit
6=8 Ford 200 Weber Carb Kit: Weber 38/38 Carb Electric Choke Air Cleaner 08-1651 Carb Adapter Kit with 2-3/4" stud centers Linkage Kit Fully set up and ready to run out of the box.
cliffordperformance.net
jcom4179
Well-known member
Thank you for the link. I checked it out, kit definitely has everything.Yes they do pre set it up
08-K202 Weber 38/38 DGES Carb Kit
6=8 Ford 200 Weber Carb Kit: Weber 38/38 Carb Electric Choke Air Cleaner 08-1651 Carb Adapter Kit with 2-3/4" stud centers Linkage Kit Fully set up and ready to run out of the box.
Thank again Don
Just thought I would post these pics and give you some ideas on how to run the linkage. I used a piece I had in my stash for the spring mount at the carb, but any L shape will work. The other end I found the nut with the flange already attached, but you can use a washer and two nuts as mentioned. Makes it very easy to adjust the spring tension.
Attachments
jcom4179
Well-known member
Hey Don, great pics. Looks like you took your time and made everything look neat and functional. It looks like something I can do if I take my time. What did you do for a distributor upgrade? I haven't priced any options for upgrading the distributer. I'm sure it's not just as easy as changing the distributer. I'm just hoping there's a reasonabley priced option that I can do myself. Any suggestions
Thanks Don
Jeff
I did the DUI. If I remember right, they asked about the engine and did some tuning. This was probably 10-15 yrs ago. I didn’t know about this forum. There wasn’t much choice on the market. At the time it was considered one of the best replacement, high output systems. And really it was very easy swap. Very little wiring( one hot and one ground if I remember right ). Everything, all in one. There are probably cheaper ways to go, but it will require more wiring
DUI is the distributor, I got the wires to go with it too.
performancedistributors.com
Ford Street/Strip DUI – Performance Distributors
performancedistributors.com
jcom4179
Well-known member
Oh ok got it. See how clueless I am when it comes to engine parts.DUI is the distributor, I got the wires to go with it too.
Ford Street/Strip DUI – Performance Distributors
Thank you for the link
Jeff
Contact me at billythedistributorman@livecom for a distributor. Give me your phone # & the best time to call. I am in the EDT zone, Bill AmblerNice winter project! Get with Ambler performance on your distributor. He can help with that swap and get it right
Mounting the carb is pretty straightforward, loctite the adapter mounting screws, linkage isn’t bad either. Let us know if you need guidance
jcom4179
Well-known member
Hey Don, does Ambler performance sell the distributer? I was checking out the DUI distributors and there all pretty much priced around $475. I noticed quite a few other brands, like HEI which is probably a lower priced knock off of the DUI at 1/4 the price, but there's got to be a reason why there so much cheaper. Like you get what you pay for. Let me know if you have any info about the HEI brand distributors, there's a ton of them out there for sale.Nice winter project! Get with Ambler performance on your distributor. He can help with that swap and get it right
Mounting the carb is pretty straightforward, loctite the adapter mounting screws, linkage isn’t bad either. Let us know if you need guidance
Thank you for sharing the contact information for Ambler performance.
Jeff
jcom4179
Well-known member
Jeff,
What a great and informative discussion. I wish I had found this earlier so I could pipe up about my experience with the 38/38 on the 200 in my 66 Mustang that installed in September of this year.
Did you manage to get the Clifford or Redline Weber kit?
I installed the Redline Weber 38/38 kit. It came brand new packed in a box, with the non-running car and also an EBay header in another box. My plan was to get the car running with the stock engine and then add both the header and carb but that was not to be had, due to a spun bearing and scuffed cylinders. When I rebuilt the engine, I installed a performance cam from Clay Smith with aftermarket pistons so it’s no longer stock but it isn’t a radical build.
Because mine came with the Load-a-matic distributor, I installed a aftermarket billet HEI distributor with remote coil that looks about the same size as the OEM distributor and coil. I got it from an eBay store called SwapMeetParts1. They also have a website and a Facebook page. I’ve had emails with the owner there and he was very responsive. I connected the coil positive to a relay with +12v and ignored the factory ignition coil wire because it is on a resistor and provides about +8v which isn’t adequate.
The Weber carb is very sensitive to fuel pressure so the carb kit comes with a fuel pressure regulator, preset to about 3lbs. This is a critical part of the install and without it, the install will fail. I mounted mine to the firewall with a pair of nut-serts (rivet nuts). Factory fuel line cut and rubber hose to fuel pressure regulator, then regulator to the carb.
I took the PCV line to a remote catch can and then to the vacuum port on the log below the carb adapter. In my opinion, it’s a fairly important detail as I don’t think just having a breather is adequate for the crank case pressure that these engines can produce.
I had a few conversations with Larry Millwee at 6=8 Clifford Performance to help with the carb linkage. Otherwise with the kit and adapters, it was a very simple install. I did “port match” the gaskets to the openings by trimming them to match with a sharp knife and I used lock-tite on my carb studs. Aside from that, it bolted on without any special requirements.
For exhaust, I have my 6 into 2 EBay header hooked to a Y-pipe with 2-1/2” single to a fairly unrestricted muffler. I put a heat shield blanket over my starter to protect it from the heat from the header pipes. I haven’t experienced any heat soak issues but then again, I haven’t had it out in peak summer heat yet.
My experience
This is my experience with the new/rebuilt engine, header, carb, distributor installed with a guess where around 8 to 10 degrees of advance would be a piston 1 TDC: I turned the key and it fired right up without a hint of hesitation. I adjusted the idle speed and the car was drivable. It was running a bit on the rich side at idle, for sure and my timing wasn’t dialed in but it was passable and drivable.
Timing
The HEI distributor I bought has up to 10 degrees vacuum advance, adjusted with an allen key in the advance diaphragm and it has up to 14 degrees mechanical advance at various RPM’s, adjusted with a sleeve and springs. It’s pretty simple to adjust but I’m not sure what the suggested vacuum and mechanical advance curve would be for a stock engine. I’m still fine tuning my timing but it still runs well and works well on the highway and just cruising around town.
Setting the Idle mix
The Clifford 38/38 should come preset for the inline 6 200 but mine needed some adjustments because of the larger initial advance timing I’m running. It came with a box of jets and had #55 idle circuit jets installed. These are probably suitable for a stock engine. Idle mixture is adjusted on the front and back of the carb and should be the same for each mixture screw. There is a Weber setup page somewhere that explains how to do the mixture adjustments and it’s very simple to do. My carb had different adjustments on the mixture screws so I think the previous owner must have messed with them. It was very simple to dial it in.
Setting the electric choke
The 38/38 I have has an electric choke. It’s very simple and mine was pretty much good to go out of the box. I provided 12v ignition from the same source as the ignition coil and adjusted the high idle speed screw which is on the drivers side of the carb. There are plenty of EBay videos showing how to set it up. Now when I start the car from cold, I depress the gas pedal to prime the carb and set high idle, crank the engine and it starts right up, no questions asked. When I feel it’s warmed up, I give it a blip on the throttle and it settles to low idle.
General drivability
I’m in Canada on the west coast where winter is wet and miserable and this car is my project car so I don’t depend on it as a daily driver. If I were in Southern California or Arizona, I’d drive it every day, everywhere. As it is, I was driving if through the end of Sumer and through the fall but not for the last month. We had a sunny dry day yesterday, so I had it out then too. With this setup, it is trouble free. It starts, stops, goes around corners without a hint of trouble and seems not bad on fuel economy. it also seems fine just cruising at low RPM or ripping it up. I’m sure it would be even better if I had milled the log and opened it up to accept the mounting plate without the adapter (funnel) but in terms of a bolt on upgrade, I can’t imagine a better experience.
Cheers,
Andrew
What a great and informative discussion. I wish I had found this earlier so I could pipe up about my experience with the 38/38 on the 200 in my 66 Mustang that installed in September of this year.
Did you manage to get the Clifford or Redline Weber kit?
I installed the Redline Weber 38/38 kit. It came brand new packed in a box, with the non-running car and also an EBay header in another box. My plan was to get the car running with the stock engine and then add both the header and carb but that was not to be had, due to a spun bearing and scuffed cylinders. When I rebuilt the engine, I installed a performance cam from Clay Smith with aftermarket pistons so it’s no longer stock but it isn’t a radical build.
Because mine came with the Load-a-matic distributor, I installed a aftermarket billet HEI distributor with remote coil that looks about the same size as the OEM distributor and coil. I got it from an eBay store called SwapMeetParts1. They also have a website and a Facebook page. I’ve had emails with the owner there and he was very responsive. I connected the coil positive to a relay with +12v and ignored the factory ignition coil wire because it is on a resistor and provides about +8v which isn’t adequate.
The Weber carb is very sensitive to fuel pressure so the carb kit comes with a fuel pressure regulator, preset to about 3lbs. This is a critical part of the install and without it, the install will fail. I mounted mine to the firewall with a pair of nut-serts (rivet nuts). Factory fuel line cut and rubber hose to fuel pressure regulator, then regulator to the carb.
I took the PCV line to a remote catch can and then to the vacuum port on the log below the carb adapter. In my opinion, it’s a fairly important detail as I don’t think just having a breather is adequate for the crank case pressure that these engines can produce.
I had a few conversations with Larry Millwee at 6=8 Clifford Performance to help with the carb linkage. Otherwise with the kit and adapters, it was a very simple install. I did “port match” the gaskets to the openings by trimming them to match with a sharp knife and I used lock-tite on my carb studs. Aside from that, it bolted on without any special requirements.
For exhaust, I have my 6 into 2 EBay header hooked to a Y-pipe with 2-1/2” single to a fairly unrestricted muffler. I put a heat shield blanket over my starter to protect it from the heat from the header pipes. I haven’t experienced any heat soak issues but then again, I haven’t had it out in peak summer heat yet.
My experience
This is my experience with the new/rebuilt engine, header, carb, distributor installed with a guess where around 8 to 10 degrees of advance would be a piston 1 TDC: I turned the key and it fired right up without a hint of hesitation. I adjusted the idle speed and the car was drivable. It was running a bit on the rich side at idle, for sure and my timing wasn’t dialed in but it was passable and drivable.
Timing
The HEI distributor I bought has up to 10 degrees vacuum advance, adjusted with an allen key in the advance diaphragm and it has up to 14 degrees mechanical advance at various RPM’s, adjusted with a sleeve and springs. It’s pretty simple to adjust but I’m not sure what the suggested vacuum and mechanical advance curve would be for a stock engine. I’m still fine tuning my timing but it still runs well and works well on the highway and just cruising around town.
Setting the Idle mix
The Clifford 38/38 should come preset for the inline 6 200 but mine needed some adjustments because of the larger initial advance timing I’m running. It came with a box of jets and had #55 idle circuit jets installed. These are probably suitable for a stock engine. Idle mixture is adjusted on the front and back of the carb and should be the same for each mixture screw. There is a Weber setup page somewhere that explains how to do the mixture adjustments and it’s very simple to do. My carb had different adjustments on the mixture screws so I think the previous owner must have messed with them. It was very simple to dial it in.
Setting the electric choke
The 38/38 I have has an electric choke. It’s very simple and mine was pretty much good to go out of the box. I provided 12v ignition from the same source as the ignition coil and adjusted the high idle speed screw which is on the drivers side of the carb. There are plenty of EBay videos showing how to set it up. Now when I start the car from cold, I depress the gas pedal to prime the carb and set high idle, crank the engine and it starts right up, no questions asked. When I feel it’s warmed up, I give it a blip on the throttle and it settles to low idle.
General drivability
I’m in Canada on the west coast where winter is wet and miserable and this car is my project car so I don’t depend on it as a daily driver. If I were in Southern California or Arizona, I’d drive it every day, everywhere. As it is, I was driving if through the end of Sumer and through the fall but not for the last month. We had a sunny dry day yesterday, so I had it out then too. With this setup, it is trouble free. It starts, stops, goes around corners without a hint of trouble and seems not bad on fuel economy. it also seems fine just cruising at low RPM or ripping it up. I’m sure it would be even better if I had milled the log and opened it up to accept the mounting plate without the adapter (funnel) but in terms of a bolt on upgrade, I can’t imagine a better experience.
Cheers,
Andrew
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