200ci Can anyone recomend a 2 barell carburator with adapter kit for my 200 inline 6 cylinder mustang

This applies only to 200ci
In making my decision on a carb, I also looked at the total ( WOT ) cfm of the intake as well as the carb. It goes along right with what Frank said, it is a balance determined by the performance you build your engine for, higher rpm requires higher cfm, but you loose performance/ drivability at lower rpm. If you have stock engine and want to add performance enhancers ( 2 barrel, headers, ignition). You still are probably going to never hit 5k on the tax, going with a more conservative carb will give you better drivability from idle to say 4k. If your carb is over the cfm of your intake, you are in the too much carb range. I’m not sure of the cfm on a 38, but I know the 34 is better matched to a stock head, and my large log modified 2 barrel head, the 34 was quite a bit to small ( 50 to 75 cfm if I remember correctly 🥹) I don’t know what the cfm is on a 38 either. As of now, I am planning on a Holley 2 bbl for the modified head engine pretty much because I am more familiar with rebuilding and tuning Holleys. And it matches the total cfm pretty close and my build allows for pushing 6k (long story but not my first choice 😬)
That is the exact information I was looking for. I just want to make sure I understand, can I use the Rochester on my 67 200 inline 6, which is like you said, not a large log head. You mentioned to get the small base version, right? With the Rochester 2v would I have to change the distributer. I read that when you swap out the single barrel to a 2 barell it effects something with the stock distributer. I don't know how true that is.
I would just like to thank you for the priceless information. Again that was the exact information I was looking for.
Jeff 👍
 
1964 I put the 32/36 on my stock 200 with header and it brought it to life. Later I Built the 200 with R/V Cam and bored 30 over. So then I had to rejet the carb. I got my kit from Vintage Inlines LLC .com Also put HEI ignition. Hope this helps..
 
1964 I put the 32/36 on my stock 200 with header and it brought it to life. Later I Built the 200 with R/V Cam and bored 30 over. So then I had to rejet the carb. I got my kit from Vintage Inlines LLC .com Also put HEI ignition. Hope this helps..
Your Mustang project turned out well I'll bet it goes good. Your first step with the headers and exhaust with a good carb will be helpful to new guys asking about various modifications for a good performance increase. Sounds like you know a good machine shop.
 
1964 I put the 32/36 on my stock 200 with header and it brought it to life. Later I Built the 200 with R/V Cam and bored 30 over. So then I had to rejet the carb. I got my kit from Vintage Inlines LLC .com Also put HEI ignition. Hope this helps..
Thanks Frank, the only performance upgrade I've done is the 2.5 inch long tube headers all the way back to dual flowmaster 40's. I just hope that's enough to run the 38 weber.
Thank you for the information
Jeff
 
Hey Don, so in your opinion, do you think the 38 would be a good option considering I've added the 2.5 inch long tube headers all the way back to the dual flowmaster 40 's. Those alone made a considerable difference in performance. From what I've read and my thought, with the larger exaust system the 38 would give me the most performance. I value your opinion and just wanted to know if you agree or think that the 34/36 or 32/36 weber would be a better fit. I don't care about saving on gas, but like I said I do want to get the best performance out of the 1 to 2v weber carb swap. Just so you know you will not be held liable if the one you think would better doesn't work out, "lol 😁."
Thank you Don for your time and sharing your knowledge with me. I really do appreciate it.
Jeff
 
Thanks Frank, the only performance upgrade I've done is the 2.5 inch long tube headers all the way back to dual flowmaster 40's. I just hope that's enough to run the 38 weber.
Thank you for the information
Jeff
Sorry I called you Frank. My bad, so you were happy with with the performance you got out of the 32/36 with long tube headers and true dual exaust? With that being said do you think the 38 would be too much.
Thank you
Jeff
 
It should be 5/16-18. I didn’t think about it till I got back home, but my head as been modified to be a 2 barrel, I would sure think he would have used the same size threads.
2 things you could do:
Go to a hardware store and buy a 5/16-18 bolt and make sure it fits.
Or more productive in the long run, buy a tap and die set, they should come with little guages that determine the thread pitch, then you can use the tap on a nut or die on a bolt ( with the correct pitch) and determine the bolt size. In the long run, you can use it to repair/ clean threads, especially before torquing
That sounds great. I have the same tap and die set.
Thanks Don
 
That sounds great. I have the same tap and die set.
Thanks Don
Yeah man, the 38 is a good fit for your application, regardless. I only posted about the progressive vs synchronous because some folks don't realize the difference in the two carbs, and the effect while driving is significant. :cool:

You've got your dual system, and I bet it sounds good with the '40's ! But strictly FYI: maximum torque on all but race engines is with headers into Y, into a single exhaust- including V8's.
 

Head cfm on stock 200 is around 100 cfm. The Webber carbs ( both 32/36 and 38/38 ) are rated around 300 cfm, ( interestingly, I can’t explain it ) but the 32/36 is progressive, for ME, unless someone here has experience with a 38 on a stock engine with headers, it seems like a lot of carb. I haven’t had my O2 meter on that engine, so no info on wot, but around town, the 32/36 is a noticeable improvement with no issues. May check with your supplier of the 38 and see what they say and if they can “pre-tune” for your engine. If you do go 38, it would be info to me😎
I would also trust Frank, he said either carb would work. I don’t know if that is on paper or experience?
 

Head cfm on stock 200 is around 100 cfm. The Webber carbs ( both 32/36 and 38/38 ) are rated around 300 cfm, ( interestingly, I can’t explain it ) but the 32/36 is progressive, for ME, unless someone here has experience with a 38 on a stock engine with headers, it seems like a lot of carb. I haven’t had my O2 meter on that engine, so no info on wot, but around town, the 32/36 is a noticeable improvement with no issues.
I would also trust Frank, he said either carb would work. I don’t know if that is on paper or experience?
The 38 will work- based on experience with other than small6 Fords. (Actually, LOL- every other U.S. automotive I6 brand, and Ford big6. A small Ford 6 is the only version I've not owned.) The log intake is a drawback for carb choice on the small6. Personally, I would not want a 300 cfm syncro carb on a small six.
Best economy and drivability is obtained with a carb cfm nearly equal to the engine cubic inch. Carbs in this range do not hurt performance below 3500-4000 rpm on stock/near stock engines, and enhance low/midrange torque. When occasional WOT performance is wanted, then a progressive carb is beneficial- small carb (1 barrel in this case) until max power is wanted, then the other barrel contributes to the total cfm available. If I were in jcom's shoes it would be the smaller progressive carb without debate. But I'm not him, nor a "performance" driver on the street. jcom seems to be set on the 38, and it "will work" and be an upgrade from stock.
The 243 cfm 2V carb on my mild performance cam/performance intake 243 cu. in. big6 is more than sufficient, it winds to over 4000 without pause, and would blow the doors off the stock 300 that was in the truck before, while maintaining great throttle response, low rpm drivability and 31% better economy than the stock 300 with a 1 barrel.

As a reminder, most stock carb'd vehicles of the "muscle car" era came from the factory with small carbs by today's performance standards. Examples:
'64-'71 300 cu in Buick and 307 cu in Chevy: 280 cfm carb -310 ft lbs torque, 210 HP
'64 289 Ford Mustang: 243cfm carb (now on my 240)
'69 429 4V Ford- 435 cfm carb. 460 ft lbs torque/ 360 HP
These are examples I know first-hand, there are more.
:)
 
Yeah man, the 38 is a good fit for your application, regardless. I only posted about the progressive vs synchronous because some folks don't realize the difference in the two carbs, and the effect while driving is significant. :cool:

You've got your dual system, and I bet it sounds good with the '40's ! But strictly FYI: maximum torque on all but race engines is with headers into Y, into a single exhaust- including V8's.
Hey Don, that's the information I I needed to hear. It gets confusing when you get information saying the 38 is a great option and that you'll get the most performance from that carburater. Then you read that the 38 is too much and that the 32/36 would be a better fit. There is more information saying the 38 would be best including the Ford Inline Six book. So I'm going to go with the 38
Thank Don for the information

Head cfm on stock 200 is around 100 cfm. The Webber carbs ( both 32/36 and 38/38 ) are rated around 300 cfm, ( interestingly, I can’t explain it ) but the 32/36 is progressive, for ME, unless someone here has experience with a 38 on a stock engine with headers, it seems like a lot of carb. I haven’t had my O2 meter on that engine, so no info on wot, but around town, the 32/36 is a noticeable improvement with no issues. May check with your supplier of the 38 and see what they say and if they can “pre-tune” for your engine. If you do go 38, it would be info to me😎
I would also trust Frank, he said either carb would work. I don’t know if that is on paper or experience?
 
Yeah man, the 38 is a good fit for your application, regardless. I only posted about the progressive vs synchronous because some folks don't realize the difference in the two carbs, and the effect while driving is significant. :cool:

You've got your dual system, and I bet it sounds good with the '40's ! But strictly FYI: maximum torque on all but race engines is with headers into Y, into a single exhaust- including V8's.
I think I replied to your message and called you Don.
My bad Frank. I am going to go with the 38. Everything you said makes perfect sense.
Thank you
Frank
 

Head cfm on stock 200 is around 100 cfm. The Webber carbs ( both 32/36 and 38/38 ) are rated around 300 cfm, ( interestingly, I can’t explain it ) but the 32/36 is progressive, for ME, unless someone here has experience with a 38 on a stock engine with headers, it seems like a lot of carb. I haven’t had my O2 meter on that engine, so no info on wot, but around town, the 32/36 is a noticeable improvement with no issues. May check with your supplier of the 38 and see what they say and if they can “pre-tune” for your engine. If you do go 38, it would be info to me😎
I would also trust Frank, he said either carb would work. I don’t know if that is on paper or experience?
Hey Don, I just replied to Frank and I thought what he said makes alot of sence. They did say they would jet and tune the carburator to the inline 6 specs. According to the Ford Inline Six Book the 38 should give better performance due to having the 2.5 " long tube headers and true dual exaust. The 32/36 weber is for a completely stock engine including stock exaust. I'm sure that the 32/36 will improve the performance over the 1v like it did for you. I've just heard more that the 38 would give the most performance, more than the 32/36, so I think I'm going to go with the 38
Thsnks Don, I will keep you guys updated
 
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If you decide on a 34/36, I have one of the ones from Vintage Inlines that's jetted for our engines. I elected to go with the 38 and wasn't able to return the one from VI. Long story there....
Hey Kristas, do you want to sell the 34/36? If so let me know, if it's already jetted and tuned for an inline 6 I may be interested.
Please let me know
Thanks
Jeff
 
If you decide on a 34/36, I have one of the ones from Vintage Inlines that's jetted for our engines. I elected to go with the 38 and wasn't able to return the one from VI. Long story there....
I meant to ask, do you have the adapter plate for the 34/36? Please let me know why you opted for the 38. Was the engine modified and did you have it on a large log.
Thanks
 
Hey Kristas, do you want to sell the 34/36? If so let me know, if it's already jetted and tuned for an inline 6 I may be interested.
Please let me know
Thanks
Jeff
I'll get
Hey Kristas, do you want to sell the 34/36? If so let me know, if it's already jetted and tuned for an inline 6 I may be interested.
Please let me know
Thanks
Jeff
The adapter base that came with my kit was for the large-log head that I have. I think that you have a small-log and will need that adapter. This is the kit that I bought. I have the carb and would sell it. I elected to go with the 38 because of the larger bore of my head, the larger valves, headers, and larger exhaust system. I expect to do some head work and install a cam in the future.

 
Your Mustang project turned out well I'll bet it goes good. Your first step with the headers and exhaust with a good carb will be helpful to new guys asking about various modifications for a good performance increase. Sounds like you know a good machine shop.

I'll get

The adapter base that came with my kit was for the large-log head that I have. I think that you have a small-log and will need that adapter. This is the kit that I bought. I have the carb and would sell it. I elected to go with the 38 because of the larger bore of my head, the larger valves, headers, and larger exhaust system. I expect to do some head work and install a cam in the future.

Hey Kristas, yes I do have a small log 200. The 38 has been out of stock for quite awhile on Vintage Inlines. I'm pretty sure they don't stock or there out of stock for the 34/36 carburater kits as well. When you get a chance let me know how much you want for the 34/36. Like you said I need to get an adapter plate, I will also need to buy the correct size studs and linkage. Question : With that carburater jetted and tuned for a large log, do you think the jets and tuning will still be the same for my small log?
Thanks
 
I think I replied to your message and called you Don.
My bad Frank. I am going to go with the 38. Everything you said makes perfect sense.
Thank you
Frank
Let us know how it does! Any questions, give us a shout!
 
Let us know how it does! Any questions, give us a shout!
I certainly will post how things went. I figured I would buy it now and take my time over the winter to do the install. I will definitely take you up on the offer for answering more questions from me. I have to admit I'm a bit nervous not only about installing the carburator, but also having to change the load omatic distributer. I will start a new thread about that soon.
Thank you Frank for all your help. I would be totally screwed without you Don and a few other members that have helped me. Great group of guys 👍. I just wish you lived closer so I could put you to work lol 😉
Jeff
 
Nice winter project! Get with Ambler performance on your distributor. He can help with that swap and get it right
Mounting the carb is pretty straightforward, loctite the adapter mounting screws, linkage isn’t bad either. Let us know if you need guidance 👍
 
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