200ci Can anyone recomend a 2 barell carburator with adapter kit for my 200 inline 6 cylinder mustang
- Thread starter jcom4179
- Start date
This applies only to 200ci
jcom4179
Well-known member
Hello again, I've been doing a lot of research on the Weber carburaters. I found that the 38/38 2v weber carburetor would be a better fit for performance. Especially because I have the long tube 2.5 inch headers with the dual exhaust. I found a website called TOP END PERFORMANCE, which has the kit in stock and most importantly they put the correct jets for the 200 inline 6 cylinder. I read quite a few, articles about the 38 2v weber as being a better choice. I just wanted to get your opinion on going with this option.
Thank you
Jeff
jcom4179
Well-known member
I'm not sure where page 1 is. I went to the home page and clicked on the conversation but it just brought me back to the same page.Refer back to my post on page 1 for my opinion.
jcom4179
Well-known member
Hey Kristas, I did read this post. The 200 is definitely the original motor. I told the guy from Top End Performance exactly what motor I have, but measuring the inlet couldn't hurt. What should the measurement be for it to be adapted to the 38 2v weber? If the inlet is the correct size do you think the 38 weber is a good choice.
Thanks
Jeff
You'll want an adapter to fit your cylinder head. The bore will measure 1.5" for a small-log (early) head or 1.75" for a large-log (late) head for the 200 and then the 250. Vintage Inlines sells both flavors of adapters for Weber carburetors.
As old as our engines are, it's not uncommon for parts to be switched around. The previous owner of my Mustang had no idea that the car had a 250 head and I wasn't aware of it when I bought the car. At the time of purchase, I was looking for a solid car for a V8 swap. Once I got some guidance from the guys on this forum, I figured out what I had and how to make it work. Now I'm interested in keeping the six.
My reasons for putting the Weber 38 in place of the stock Autolite 1100 copy that was mounted on the car were due primarily to the increased capacity for air given the 250 head, headers, and a 2.25" exhaust that I put on the car. The previous owner was trying to make the stock carb work on the large-log manifold without an adapter by hoping to fill the extra space at the bore with gasket and goop. This made for a huge vacuum leak and very poor performance-it barely ran at all. In fact, so much extra fuel was escaping into the exhaust that he grenaded the muffler on the car. The fuel system was completely trashed. The second pic is of the inside of the original carb.
Get back to us on which jets you'll be running with your new Weber 38. That's good information for anyone else considering a swap on a similar engine.
As old as our engines are, it's not uncommon for parts to be switched around. The previous owner of my Mustang had no idea that the car had a 250 head and I wasn't aware of it when I bought the car. At the time of purchase, I was looking for a solid car for a V8 swap. Once I got some guidance from the guys on this forum, I figured out what I had and how to make it work. Now I'm interested in keeping the six.
My reasons for putting the Weber 38 in place of the stock Autolite 1100 copy that was mounted on the car were due primarily to the increased capacity for air given the 250 head, headers, and a 2.25" exhaust that I put on the car. The previous owner was trying to make the stock carb work on the large-log manifold without an adapter by hoping to fill the extra space at the bore with gasket and goop. This made for a huge vacuum leak and very poor performance-it barely ran at all. In fact, so much extra fuel was escaping into the exhaust that he grenaded the muffler on the car. The fuel system was completely trashed. The second pic is of the inside of the original carb.
Get back to us on which jets you'll be running with your new Weber 38. That's good information for anyone else considering a swap on a similar engine.
primordial sludge?
jcom4179
Well-known member
Thank you Kristas very much for the information. Wow those pics are pretty scary. I have to contact the website I'm buying the 38 kit from to get the measurements of the adapter plate. I just want to make sure I'm buying the best 2v for my mustang. I'm pretty sure a guy Don I chat with on the forum put a 34/36 2v weber carburetor on his 67 mustang and liked the results, that another option. I read online that a 38 weber would give the best performance for a 200 inline 6 with long tube headers and true dual exaust. Either way I go I will post my results.
Thanks again for taking the time to share knowledge about the 38 weber, I really appreciate the help.
Jeff
DON
Famous Member
It should be 5/16-18. I didn’t think about it till I got back home, but my head as been modified to be a 2 barrel, I would sure think he would have used the same size threads.Hey Don, yes I do need the thread size, but no rush. Whenever you get the chance. Saturday is fine.
Thanks for getting back to me even your out of town I appreciate it.
Jeff
2 things you could do:
Go to a hardware store and buy a 5/16-18 bolt and make sure it fits.
Or more productive in the long run, buy a tap and die set, they should come with little guages that determine the thread pitch, then you can use the tap on a nut or die on a bolt ( with the correct pitch) and determine the bolt size. In the long run, you can use it to repair/ clean threads, especially before torquing
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jocom4179, your driving style and the operating environment play a big role in deciding between these two Webers. They are completely different in design in one important way: the 34/36 is a progressive 2 barrel, you're only driving with 1 barrel except approaching WOT. The 38/38 is not, both barrels open together from idle. The effect on initial launch, low speed drivability, vacuum and (to a lesser degree) economy will be almost radically different between the 34/36 and the 38 for this reason. All idling, take off and modest speed driving will be affected. The 38 will be equal to 250% more available airflow at idle and all throttle positions except WOT. This means a more sensitive pedal, way less gas pedal travel will be required on the 38. Basically the pedal will be 2 1/2 times more sensitive to your input with the 38.
If you like to get-up-n-go, and there's a decent % of higher speed operation then it's the 38. If you're mostly in town, prefer cruising gently and want max carb efficiency/economy, then it's the 34.
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DON
Famous Member
In making my decision on a carb, I also looked at the total ( WOT ) cfm of the intake as well as the carb. It goes along right with what Frank said, it is a balance determined by the performance you build your engine for, higher rpm requires higher cfm, but you loose performance/ drivability at lower rpm. If you have stock engine and want to add performance enhancers ( 2 barrel, headers, ignition). You still are probably going to never hit 5k on the tax, going with a more conservative carb will give you better drivability from idle to say 4k. If your carb is over the cfm of your intake, you are in the too much carb range. I’m not sure of the cfm on a 38, but I know the 34 is better matched to a stock head, and my large log modified 2 barrel head, the 34 was quite a bit to small ( 50 to 75 cfm if I remember correctly 
) I don’t know what the cfm is on a 38 either. As of now, I am planning on a Holley 2 bbl for the modified head engine pretty much because I am more familiar with rebuilding and tuning Holleys. And it matches the total cfm pretty close and my build allows for pushing 6k (long story but not my first choice 
)
) I don’t know what the cfm is on a 38 either. As of now, I am planning on a Holley 2 bbl for the modified head engine pretty much because I am more familiar with rebuilding and tuning Holleys. And it matches the total cfm pretty close and my build allows for pushing 6k (long story but not my first choice )Similar threads
