got alittle carried away

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
i noticed my 250 was leaking coolant on the outside of the #5 cylinder so i tore it all down. in my haste i didnt mark the plugs in any way. so if anyone has a diagram of the firing order in relation to the location of the wires on the cap it would be much appreciated. also if anyone could tell me the torque specs for the head bolts rocker shaft bolts and exhaust manifold bolts that would be greatly appreciated as well....
 
From the left of the front clip on the distributor looking at it from the front, it goes clockwise- 3, 6, 2, 4, 1, 5 for the wires.

Exhaust manifold bolts are 13-18 Ft Lbs
Head Bolts are 70-75 ft Lbs
Rocker arm shaft bracket bolts are 13-18 Ft Lbs.

All numbers given are for a '69 250 directly out of my 1969 Motor's Auto Repair Manual.


-Michael
 
use a screwdriver in the spark plug hole of #1 until it is at top dead center. The dist rotor will either point to #1 on the cap or #6. (since the dist turns half as fast as the crank)

Put the short wire to #1 and the long wire to #6, and the firing order (found cast right onto the intake log) is 1-5-3-6-2-4
 
Hold on, not that easy.

The plug wires can be located differently depending on what position the distributor shaft was when it was "timed". You don't have to obey the "1" marked on the cap but I would, because its nice to have things as meant to be.

Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.

First you'll need to turn the engine to cyl #1 TDC of its compression stroke. That's about when you'll want to ignite #1 and you'll want to align the rotor of the dizzy to point to #1 plug wire. Look where the "1" is marked on the cap; I'd make a mark on the dizzy itself so that I know where the "1" is with the cap off. Plan a good position for the dizzy so that it can be rotated both ways. Drop the dizzy into its place (with the cap off) and have the shaft postitioned so that the rotor points to the mark you made before. The dizzy may be a little hard to put down due to oil pump shafts position, but eventually it shoud go in there. If you want to preset an advance you can just rotate the dizzy by hand to get some advance (turn counterclockwise), or you can rotate the engine for example 10 degrees (use the marks on the damper for your easy help; rotate crank counterclockwise to align an advance like 10* with the pointer) and then align the rotor with #1 plug wire. The rotor moves clockwise, so wire the other plug wires clockwise from the #1 wire.

If you don't obey the "1" mark on the cap you can just drop in the dizzy (after turning the engine to #1 TDC at compr. stroke), see where the rotor points and align one plug post to that, attach #1 wire, and the rest clockwise from there.
 
He only had the head off....I don't think he pulled the distributor out.
 
My turn, my turn! (Picture ADD-afflicted person jumping up and down, impatient to be noticed...) :roll:

Head bolts should be torqued with relaxation intervals. First 50-55, wait twenty minutes or have a cup of coffee. Then 60-65, and if possible leave overnight. Final torque to 75 foot-pounds the next day, "breaking" every bolt slightly before drawing tight. Don't forget to oil or moly grease the friction surfaces (threads, underside of bolt heads).

Cheers, Adam.
 
Linc, we were writing our answers at the same time, and you hit the Submit -button first. Jiihaa!

As always I read the post quickly and "tore it all down" ment to me alot more than just the upper end removal. :lol: :lol: :lol:

low225, let us all know when the engine roars again.
 
thanks guys... yeah i left the distributer in.... i just looked and the caps numbered so its kinda a no brainer. should be running tomorrow
 
Back
Top