H/W 5200 set up confirmation..(pics)

[Anonymous]

I posted this at the end of my previous thread, but didn't get a response, so I thought I would re-post to gain re-assurance. I just installed a H/W 5200 and Duraspark II with GM/HEI and TFI coil into my '66 Mustang with a 3 speed tranny. I believe that everything looks good, although I though some of you Guru's might take a look and see what you think..

It idles very smooth and doesn't have any problems when I bump the throttle. I realize that I need to put it under load to look for flat spots and hesitations, but the car is not road-worthy yet. I'm not ready to make a decision on re-jetting, but I think I might have gotten lucky with the carb right out of the box.

My idle speed screw is about 1/2 turn.
My mixture screw is about 1-1/2 turn out.

If I'm reading the posts and the Weber instruction sheet correctly, this is pretty close to ideal. I'm guessing from this, that my jets appear to be correct enough. Obviously a road test will tell me more.

My initial timing is set to 14* @ 600 rpm (standard tranny).
With the vaccuum connected, it comes all in at around 38* @ 2000 rpm.
My plugs are gapped to .045.

I haven't put a load on it yet to check for pinging, but I think that I remember these numbers being about right from previous posts..

Again, does this all look right? If anybody has any input, I'd appreciate it...

 

[powerband]

I posted this at the end of my previous thread, but didn't get a response, so I thought I would re-post to gain re-assurance. ... I believe that everything looks good, although I though some of you Guru's might take a look and see what you think..
My initial timing is set to 14* @ 600 rpm (standard tranny).
With the vaccuum connected, it comes all in at around 38* @ 2000 rpm.
My plugs are gapped to .045.

Again, does this all look right? If anybody has any input, I'd appreciate it...

Well "looking" at it (pics?) - all "looks" good. The road test will be important but you sound like it will be fine. the first 5200 I tried had a bad stunble that nothing would fix (changed jets, power valve, float settings etc) the second one worked perfect with any jet combination !?. What did you use for an Air Cleaner?. Where'd ya get the H/W?.

-

Powerband

 

[Anonymous]

Good point, I was hoping that you would "look" at my numbers. The physical installation was a no-brainer..

Anyway, I got the carb from Stovebolt and used his air cleaner base plate. I then bought a 14" chrome air cleaner from an auto parts store. It looks pretty nice.

I followed jameyers lead and cut a bit out of the bottom section of the air cleaner and then used a rubber mallet to flatten. This reduce the height enough to fit. I'm now working on the linkage, but I think I have it figured out as well, just need the time to work on it.

This site is full of good ideas, I never would have figured this out without all of the help..

Here's some pics. I've added links because the pictures are monster size..

Right side
Left side
Carb
Linkage

I used a piece of aluminum for the linkage. It needs to be about 1" longer, which I'll work on this weekend...

brian

 

[Anonymous]

Hey, great pics. I like the blue engine paint job. Actually looks pretty cool. I'd go with a V-8 pedal and a cable set up if you can afford it, easy to do an will complement your engine bay.

In your last photo I see what looks like scorching from an exhaust leak right below the carb by the exhasut for cylinders 3 & 4. If it's a leak, you should get on it, before it scores the mating surfaces or gets worse...can also heat the carb up significantly in the summer. If not, no worries.

Cheers,
Steve-O

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Steve-O, yeah, I noticed that also. It's a new gasket, so I'm not sure why the leak. I guess I'll pull the exhaust off and replace the gasket and try again. Any suggestions??

brian

 

[Anonymous]

I'm about halfway through the same process. The carb stovebolt sent me has a water controled choke. Did yours come full electric? Perhaps you converted it and could share a part #?

I was eyeballing my manifold before I put it on a week ago and decided to have it resurfaced, just off a credit card or so. Also, mine had the little old choke heat tube that needed to be welded up. I went with a set of the locking bolts as I've had leaks in the past.

Don't you think that initial timing is a bit advanced? Perhaps I need to search some old posts. Looking real good.....

 

[Anonymous]

When I ordered from Stovebolt, I asked for the electric choke. I received the water choke model and conversion part. I don't know a part number, but I think it was only $10-$15 from Tom??

Who/How did you resurface your manifold? I took a wire brush to it, I'm thinking that you mean more than that....

As for the timing, I did a lot of searches and came up with a 12*-14* number for the Duraspark. I'll have to put it under a load to find out if its too advanced. For now, it idles great. If I have any pinging, I'll bring it down a bit. You probably want to search for posts from people who know more than me...

 

[Redfalken]

Thanks Steve-O, yeah, I noticed that also. It's a new gasket, so I'm not sure why the leak. I guess I'll pull the exhaust off and replace the gasket and try again. Any suggestions??

brian

I had my manifold machined flat at a local machine shop that specializes in cylinder heads. I couldn't swing it at the time but the surfaces on the block side really needed to be machined as well. Lot's of pitting. What I did was use some Permatex Ultra Copper sealant on the block side of the gasket. Just a thin layer and follow the drying instructions before running the engine.

Also, if the manifold bolts aren't new, consider a new set and retorque them 3 times after short warm-up/cool down cycles.

 

[Anonymous]

Who is Tom? (For the choke conversion)
I took my manifold to my engine rebuilder/machine shop, and he just said "here take it" since I'd just spent $750 on the bottom end, but I know pirices for that go from $20-$30. Some folks will do it while you wait.... I've also heard of people using 2 gaskets and soaking them in water first, perhaps those are old wives tales... never tried it myself. I am told that if the manifold is warped and you tighten it back down you improve your chances of cracking it.... thanks for your help...

 

[Anonymous]

Who is Tom? (For the choke conversion).

Tom at Stovebolt..

I guess I'll try to re-torque first (they are new) and see what happens..