Hard start and timing help

m1e9r5c6

New member
So I went and completed a Duraspark distributor swap into my 56 F100 223. I am using an hei ignition module for spark control and an accel super coil (for now, looking for a tfi unit). I thought I had this thing all set and went to fire it up but…
The only way I get it to start is by giving some gas and then it dies. Won’t idle. At first it sounded like an intermittent misfire and the timing light strobe was erratic. Went through my new wiring and found some potential loose connections that I have now fixed. But still, won’t fire up without a small pump of the gas pedal. Then won’t run without a bit of foot feed.
I swapped in a Clifford intake with Weber carb a while ago ( before distributor swap). I thought maybe I had dirty fuel issues plugging the carb (dirt in the bowl) so went ahead and pulled that apart to clean it. Also replaced the factory original rusty steel fuel lines. I now have an electric fuel pump running fuel from a new tank in the back.
I have confirmed fire order and plug wires are right and had my FIL over to rotate the distributor while running all to no avail.
We’ve tried everything we can think of short of compression test. I even set the valve lash. Truck hasn’t run in 4 years while it was being restored. Anyone else have ideas?
 
Yes by all means do a compression test. Did it run good with the Weber carb before the Distribitor swap? How did you wire the new DSII distributor and Modual? How much fuel volume and pressure is that electric fuel putting out? Best of luck
 
Yes by all means do a compression test. Did it run good with the Weber carb before the Distribitor swap? How did you wire the new DSII distributor and Modual? How much fuel volume and pressure is that electric fuel putting out? Best of luck
Had it running 4 years ago with the Weber in it but just idling in the garage. Then it went into restoration mode so hasn’t fired up since. After doing some reading about the loadomatic distributor not being compatible with new carbs, I took the plunge and converted to the DS2. The carb had sat with fuel in it for that 4years so I took it apart and attempted to clean it. Compression test tonight shows even pressure across the board.
 
That's great that compression test is even but what is reading that you got? So if the carb sat 4 years is the fuel in the tank also that old or you did you drain out all the old fuel and clean the tank too? What is the wiring diagram that you used for hooking up the DS II?
 
That's great that compression test is even but what is reading that you got? So if the carb sat 4 years is the fuel in the tank also that old or you did you drain out all the old fuel and clean the tank too? What is the wiring diagram that you used for hooking up the DS II?
Compression was 132ish but I forgot to get the wife to hold open the carb when cranking if that makes a big difference.
completely new fuel system from the 66 mustang tank in the back to the Weber 38 carb.
Used these instructions for wiring: http://www.carbdford.com/tech/HEI/hei.htm
The only questionable thing with the wiring is that the distributor I got had black wires with coloured stripes so I’m not 100% sure if the purple and orange might be backwards?
Plugs look all about the same except number one is blacker than the others. All the other electrodes are tan. Going to get new plugs today to rule that out. I hate champion plugs anyway.
 
Yes when doing a compression test for best results the engine should be warmed up good if possable. The carb should have the choke wide open and the throttle also tied wide open, valves adjusted on those with solid lifters like yours (engine warmed up if possable to for best results of the lash setting). Sounds good on your fuel system parts and you have fresh fuel in the tank.

Since you have at least 132 psi test this reading is a little low but it's also high enough that the engines has enough compression that it should run. Since the wiring sorce for the HEI Modual you followed is correct you only need to ID the distribor pickup wires are correct. Do you have an Orange stripe and a Purple stripe on one each of the three black wires plus a black wire without a stripe? If so the purple stripe wire goes to the G terminal of the HEI this is the narrowest one 3/16 wide. The orange stripe wire goes to the W terminal. If that's the way you have it wired than its correct if it's not than change it to that hook up and you should be good to go. The last black wire is a ground and thus is also very important that its a good ground so check that it and your Modual are properly grounded this can be varied using a simple test light hooking the lights wire to the battery than touch the prob end to the Modual ground wire if it lights up bright then you have a good ground or you can also use a volt / ohm meter.

I quit using Champions back in the late 1960's they seemed to foul out often and just quite working, I then went with Autolite's or MotorCraft's seem to last much longer and much less trouble. Yes try a fresh set of plugs that should make a big difference. It sounds like severial things have stacked up on you from the truck setting for and those 4 years. So to sum this up you have enough compression for the engine to run, you have a good carb, air, and clean fuel that leaves electrical as the most likely sorce of trouble. So a fresh set of plugs is good and I would go through checking out the grounds and positive conections on the engine making sure they are good, clean and snug, and the battery is up to a full charge, then it should start and run. Best of luck
 
Finally got this thing running like a top. Thanks to everyone for their help. Not sure what it was but ended up changing plugs to NGK wr5’s, swapped out the old coil for a 90s ford TFI unit. It started after all this but still didn’t idle well so my wife had the idea of using a tooth brush bristle to clean the idle jets in the carb.
I think that was the ticket because now she is smooth. Still have a bit of tweaking and fine tuning to do but I am happy.
 
Back
Top