gravelrash
Well-known member
hi all, whenever i blow a head gasket it seems to be water leaking from the back two water jackets.
anyone else experience this?
anyone else experience this?
Head gasket blowing on number 6 WHY?
- Thread starter gravelrash
- Start date
Funky Cricket
Well-known member
6 tends to be the leanest cylinder, hence most likely to detonate, detonation = blown head gasket (or at least can lead to head gastket issues)
Firstly, the belt and braces apprach. I'd check the block and head and bolts for straightness with one of those expensive 1 meter straight edges. Make certain the threads are tightened with a fully lubricated thread, but not dripping wet with oil. Use the right kind of ARP head studs with 3mm flat washers. Somewhere on FSPP, there is a reference.
Other Anaylisis and thoughts :idea: .
Like the Capri 3000 V6 Essex engine, the small Ford I6 has rear cylinders which are hurt by detonation more than any other cylinders.Due primarily to combustion heat, but also leaness and heat from the exhast. Front cylinder is way too cool, the back ones way too hot. Often, the back of the block is full of up to half a litre of old iron rust when flushed, even more when treated with custic or mutraic acid. Thats about 3 kilos of iron just floating around there! It stays at the back of the block, and things heat up there. In 1988, Ford OZ re-routed the water feeds and lines on the OHC to balance out the cylinder temperatures By adding an external line.
The rear water passages since the first 1959 144 ohv to the last 1992 XF 4.1 have two big holes. They are there to cool the back cylinder. In practice, there MAY not be enough dimensional stability under load.
Your only options are to check block trueness, and then look at the best composite gasket. O ringing the block is a good option, but it works best with a steel/composite gasket within the 0-ring biteing around the steel fire ring.
O rings aren't perfect, but the right kit can do the job and give you some peace. The x-flow blocks have a heack of a lot more meat in them, but the head gasket sealing on Ford sixes is the weakest point
Other Anaylisis and thoughts :idea: .
Like the Capri 3000 V6 Essex engine, the small Ford I6 has rear cylinders which are hurt by detonation more than any other cylinders.Due primarily to combustion heat, but also leaness and heat from the exhast. Front cylinder is way too cool, the back ones way too hot. Often, the back of the block is full of up to half a litre of old iron rust when flushed, even more when treated with custic or mutraic acid. Thats about 3 kilos of iron just floating around there! It stays at the back of the block, and things heat up there. In 1988, Ford OZ re-routed the water feeds and lines on the OHC to balance out the cylinder temperatures By adding an external line.
The rear water passages since the first 1959 144 ohv to the last 1992 XF 4.1 have two big holes. They are there to cool the back cylinder. In practice, there MAY not be enough dimensional stability under load.
Your only options are to check block trueness, and then look at the best composite gasket. O ringing the block is a good option, but it works best with a steel/composite gasket within the 0-ring biteing around the steel fire ring.
O rings aren't perfect, but the right kit can do the job and give you some peace. The x-flow blocks have a heack of a lot more meat in them, but the head gasket sealing on Ford sixes is the weakest point
kirkallen143
Famous Member
gravelrash":p1bso5uo said:
Yes Sir, and three times at that. Turn your timing down and richen up the fuel mixture. I run a base timing of 17 degrees BTDC and only advance 10 degrees mechanically for 27 total degrees advanced.
Kirk
Yup! Same problem here. Pushed out two head gaskets both at #6. One went into the water jacket, the other let go on the passenger side and blew into atmosphere.
Our current fix (other than tuning) was to O-ring the block, intalled 1/2" head studs and use a Corteco head gasket.
Later,
Will
Our current fix (other than tuning) was to O-ring the block, intalled 1/2" head studs and use a Corteco head gasket.
Later,
Will
On every block I've rebuilt I've noticed that the deck is never consistently flat. I think there is some "seasoning" that occurs as the block ages and there is some noticable change from front to rear and side to side.
It usually never takes more than .015" to clean one up, often less, but after the frist pass of the broach you can almost always see where the end cylinders are lower than the middle and the outer section near the lifters is lower.
A quick pass on the deck should help a lot with the cylinder sealing issues and always seems to cure the weeping that sometimes occurs above the lifter gallery.
It usually never takes more than .015" to clean one up, often less, but after the frist pass of the broach you can almost always see where the end cylinders are lower than the middle and the outer section near the lifters is lower.
A quick pass on the deck should help a lot with the cylinder sealing issues and always seems to cure the weeping that sometimes occurs above the lifter gallery.
