All Small Six Help! Did I just screw up my new build?

[DON]

I looked again at this and it looks like they are out of stock on the 6an with no valve
But they do have the 8AN with no valve. $50

 

[sixtseventwo4d]

wix 33002 is a 5/16 transparent inline fuel filter. I run one before the fuel pump to keep it clean also

 

[WillingnessLimp]

So what I'm thinking for my next steps:
- open up the carb and check for any debris
- adjust pressure at pressure regulator
- remove the inline filter and replace it with filter at the carb (possibly) OR just run it without it (my fuel pump does have filter already)
- change oil
- switch back to non adjustable rocker arms (to exclude possible problem for now and just deal with carb/fuel delivery)
- check dizzy for good spark on each spark plug

If all that doesn't solve the start up and flooding issues - move on to the electric fuel pump

 

[63 Sprint]

I’ve always liked these:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wix-33031

I never liked plastic filters. You can get them in 1/4”, 5/16” and 3/8” barbed ends.

I would not put complete trust in the fuel pump filter unless I know exactly what its filtering rating is. And it needs to filter after the pump.diaphragm and valve assembly.

 

[awasson]

So what I'm thinking for my next steps:
- open up the carb and check for any debris
- adjust pressure at pressure regulator
- remove the inline filter and replace it with filter at the carb (possibly) OR just run it without it (my fuel pump does have filter already)
- change oil
- switch back to non adjustable rocker arms (to exclude possible problem for now and just deal with carb/fuel delivery)
- check dizzy for good spark on each spark plug

If all that doesn't solve the start up and flooding issues - move on to the electric fuel pump

That sounds good. You can remove or keep the clear filter it if the pump has a filter.

That is a substantial amount of fuel in your oil to raise the level that much.

I wonder if it would be worthwhile to add a little marvel mystery oil to the bores and manually rotate the crank to make sure there is a light film of oil in the bores. My concern about washing down the bores with gas on a newish build is that it can wear the rings and the hone and prevent the rings from setting.

I think you probably have good spark and I think your rockers are not the issue, although they may have been too tight initially.

It seems the problem is that your carburetor was literally dumping fuel into the cylinders and washing down the bores. My main interest would be to watch the throat of the carburetor when your engine is cranking to make sure that you aren't seeing fuel pouring into the engine.

By the end of this, you will be an expert in troubleshooting these engines. I'm sorry we're about 1200 miles apart or I'd be in the garage giving you a hand.

 

[Otto]

I agree that much fuel in the crankcase seems excessive. Has a leaking pump diagram been ruled out?

 

[Frank]

So what I'm thinking for my next steps:
- open up the carb and check for any debris

With the float attached to the airhorn, needle in place, work it by hand with brakeclean and/or compressed air to be SURE a tiny sliver of rubber/metal/debris is not preventing it from seating. I like to flip the assembly over so the float is seated by gravity, then blow into the fuel inlet to be sure the needle is seated and sealed in the seat. If any air can pass with the float closed by gravity, the needle is still dirty or misadjusted.

 

[WillingnessLimp]

That sounds good. You can remove or keep the clear filter it if the pump has a filter.

That is a substantial amount of fuel in your oil to raise the level that much.

I wonder if it would be worthwhile to add a little marvel mystery oil to the bores and manually rotate the crank to make sure there is a light film of oil in the bores. My concern about washing down the bores with gas on a newish build is that it can wear the rings and the hone and prevent the rings from setting.

I think you probably have good spark and I think your rockers are not the issue, although they may have been too tight initially.

It seems the problem is that your carburetor was literally dumping fuel into the cylinders and washing down the bores. My main interest would be to watch the throat of the carburetor when your engine is cranking to make sure that you aren't seeing fuel pouring into the engine.

By the end of this, you will be an expert in troubleshooting these engines. I'm sorry we're about 1200 miles apart or I'd be in the garage giving you a hand.

Thanks Andrew! I can get you a plane ticket

I had the same thought about protective film on the cylinder walls…I was just gonna spray some oil. I’ve also read about Fogging oil or adding ATF into the cylinders. What would be better?

@Otto it has not…didn’t think of pulling out the pump and checking it. I’ll add it to my list.

Yes, it feels now so much fuel went in…I would estimate maybe 2-3 qts of gas now added to the oil….cuz I’m pretty much on empty tank now

 

[pmuller9]

With the float attached to the airhorn, needle in place, work it by hand with brakeclean and/or compressed air to be SURE a tiny sliver of rubber/metal/debris is not preventing it from seating. I like to flip the assembly over so the float is seated by gravity, then blow into the fuel inlet to be sure the needle is seated and sealed in the seat. If any air can pass with the float closed by gravity, the needle is still dirty or misadjusted.

No! You do not use compressed air on a needle and seat that is meant to operate at 3 psi.
You will destroy the return hook.
If you want to check if the needle is seated before you disassemble, you simple blow into the inlet by mouth.

 

[63 Sprint]

The best thing to do is completely disassemble the needle seat assembly so you can see if anything is damaged or blocked.
Please be gentle on the rubber needle tip when cleaning and inspecting.

Using compressed air can bend and break things.

And DO NOT use Brakleen since the needle has a rubber tip.
Brakleen can damage rubber and plastic parts.
Brake cleaner is highly effective for bare metal but incompatible with plastics, rubber, paint, and vinyl, often causing melting, swelling, or cracking. It should never be used on rubber hoses, painted panels, or delicate electronic components.

 

[WillingnessLimp]

Thank you @pmuller9 and @63 Sprint !

 

[awasson]

Good point about Brakleen too. I see that stuff used everywhere and all the time. I keep well away from that stuff; especially the tetrachloroethylene stuff.

 

[WillingnessLimp]

Little update:
- drained the “liquid oil” - ended up with 6 qts of it, including from the filter
- did not disassemble the carb - just blew some air by mouth as @pmuller9 suggested - seal was good. Checked carb filter - very small particles present, but I don’t think anything got past that.
- removed fuel pump and it smelled just oil inside the lever, so my assumption it’s not leaking fuel there
- removed fuel pressure regulator and disassembled - everything looks okay there, diaphragm is good and no debris. Removed diaphragm and blew some air - it was sealed shut as well
- all fuel lines were removed and in line filter removed as well - as @DON mentioned, all those rubber pieces are from o rings on both sides. So that filter went straight into trash
- put fogging oil into cylinders and spun engine by hand to coat the walls
- left everything kinda open to let the fuel evaporate more

Going to run new fuel lines from the pump - just in case and avoid inline filter before fuel pressure regulator - from what I found the fuel pump has 150 micron filter. I will put inline filter right before the carb.
I’ll give some more updates on starting the car, hopefully in the next couple of days.