All Small Six Help! Did I just screw up my new build?

[awasson]

Another update:
Fired up the car tonight. Fuel pressure is good - steady 2.5 psi now.
Engine wouldn’t stay running unless I open up the throttle like half way. And it was running very rough and I think it was misfiring badly. Timing was set to TDC, but I moved it a bit to about 8-10 degrees.
I haven’t checked the spark on spark plugs yet, @sixtseventwo4d got me a bit scared with under hood fumes and I chickened out lol (had a fire in the garage 5 years ago, so having ptsd after that ).
Eventually engine died and I didn’t want to crank more - didn’t want to flood it again.
Removed spark plugs and checked cylinders - #6 had some gas again, so I cranked without ignition and fuel line disconnected to get everything out. I think because it sits slanted towards the back it just drains there.
Spark plugs got all dark (left to right from #1).

Planning on coming back to check the spark tomorrow, after everything is aired out.
I’m concerned about cyl 6, as the wire clamp to spark plug became undone once - I fixed it, but maybe it became undone again.

I do think now it’s the time to check everything with the dizzy.

Should I try new spark plugs as well?
I have autolite ap45 now

Glad to hear it. I’m assuming you’re now using an electric fuel pump?

I don’t understand why you have to crank the carb open like that to keep it going. My Weber 38/38 would be at redline if I held the carb half open out of gear. Clogged jets will cause that kind of trouble but your carb just arrived and I think you’ve gone through it to ensure it’s in good shape.

Your plugs should be tan or light tan.

Do you have the vacuum advance on the carb blocked off? If you’re not using vacuum advance put your initial timing at about 20 degrees; you can adjust it and really dial it in later. These engines want a ton of timing at idle. Mine is at 22 degrees at idle with initial of 12 degrees plus vacuum advance of 10 degrees from manifold vacuum.

You think it’s misfiring? Popping through the carb or the exhaust? Were you lifters making any clacking noise?

You might still be too tight on the lifter preload. If the valves aren’t closing you would absolutely have to have the carb pinned open to keep it idling and it would eventually die and not want to start until it cooled and the metal contracted again.

 

[63 Sprint]

WillingnessLimp,

Please be as detailed as you can on any changes that were done, and document all changes.


Question:
Are you still using a mechanical fuel pump?


Please verify:
Engine timing


Simple test:
Here is a test that I would like you to do.
Pull the plugs and air out the cylinders and intake manifold. Then work on getting the engine running again. As soon as the engine starts running, take a pair of vise-grips or C-clamp and block (pinch) off the rubber fuel line at the carburetor. What you will be doing is stopping the carburetors fuel supply. Now listen to the engine. The engine will quickly run out of fuel and a severely rich fueled engine should start going lean and start operating smoother before it stalls out. If this happens, the fault is either the carburetor or the fuel supply. (It could possibly be both)

 

[63 Sprint]

WillingnessLimp,

Did you purchase the Weber 38/38 carburetor from an authorized Weber dealer?

Is the carburetor made in Spain?