All Small Six Help.. Flywheel installation issue

[Jmustang_65]

I have an 1983 big bell lower starter mount engine block. I got a Modern Driveline billet steel flywheel and when I torque it down, I'm not able to crank the engine by hand. I have to loosen each bolt to just about hand tight to be able to crank it. All Spark plugs are out. Engine was run in an engine stand at it was a new build. Just installing a T5 now.

I have tested:
Regular 7/16-1 inch bolts, Arp 1 inch and .625 inch bolts. I have added 2 washer to the .625 inch bolt to make sure I'm not bottoming out the crank bolts.
The engine spins freely with the flywheel off and with it on but bolts are just hand tight at most.

What can be the issue?
I seen flywheel shims is that an option to use/test?

 

[Engine Fan]

Have you tried without the starter index plate on? It appears to be getting pinched(dark circular line) between the flywheel and the block.
If that's the case, either flywheel shims as you mentioned or the starter index plate needs to be relieved(cut out) in the center.

 

[Jmustang_65]

Have you tried without the starter index plate on? It appears to be getting pinched(dark circular line) between the flywheel and the block.
If that's the case, either flywheel shims as you mentioned or the starter index plate needs to be relieved(cut out) in the center.

Oh, good catch. I have not. I will try it.
Also if I add shims to the crank I suppose I will need to add the same to the starter? ...Just thinking ahead here.

 

[wsa111]

Don't forget to put sealer on the bolts cause they are exposed to oil at the rear main bearing.

 

[Jmustang_65]

Don't forget to put sealer on the bolts cause they are exposed to oil at the rear main bearing.

I added ARP lube that came with the bolts but, I will re-add once I resolve issue. Thank you for the reminder.

 

[Vintage Iron]

Is the ARP Lube a lubricant to cut down friction affecting torque, or is it a sealant? Bill's concerned about sealing the threads to prevent oil seepage past them and into the bell housing. When I installed ARP head studs on a VW turbodiesel, the lube provided was for lubricating the threads only, not sealing them. That might have changed...

 

[powerband]

"Catch 22".
Necessary sealant or fastener specified lubricant ? ....
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have fun
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[drag-200stang]

Do not use spacer, it is hard enough to keep a flywheel tight on a six. open up the block plate. Clean the right length bolts and use loc tight medium for mild use, high strength for extreme use.
I sure hope that the bolts where not full torqued down, that can apply a lot of force on the crank, thrust bearing and main web also flywheel.

 

[Jmustang_65]

Let me see if I got this correct.

• Use lubricant (ie. ARP Lube) on threads and under the head/nut for precise torque.
• Use sealant (ie Loc tight Thread locker) only on threads to stop leaks.
• Do not use both a sealant and a lubricant on the same threads; choose the appropriate product for the job.

 

[Frank]

Also if I add shims to the crank I suppose I will need to add the same to the starter? ...Just thinking ahead here.

Shimming the flywheel (bad idea) moves it rearward. Shimming the starter moves it forward.

 

[Frank]

Let me see if I got this correct.

• Use lubricant (ie. ARP Lube) on threads and under the head/nut for precise torque.
• Use sealant (ie Loc tight Thread locker) only on threads to stop leaks.
• Do not use both a sealant and a lubricant on the same threads; choose the appropriate product for the job.

I think what the guys are saying is that the flywheel bolt holes go all the way thru the crank flange and are exposed to crankcase oil. (post #4) (true on a big6, I can NOT verify about the samll6). If so they need sealant to prevent oil seepage past the threads over time. Non-factory washers (or shims) on a flywheel or fasteners runs the risk of imbalance and loosening of fasteners. Be wise here, that's a lot of heavy high-speed mass that must be mounted and retained correctly.

 

[drag-200stang]

I would call ARP and tell them that the flywheel crank bolt holes go thru to the crank case and do they recommend a loc- tight product to seal and to help a high performance straight six to prevent harmonics from loosing the bolts and if so what torque should be applied. Also tell them it is a steel flywheel. See what they recommend in this instance.

 

[drag-200stang]

I think what the guys are saying is that the flywheel bolt holes go all the way thru the crank flange and are exposed to crankcase oil. (post #4) (true on a big6, I can NOT verify about the samll6). If so they need sealant to prevent oil seepage past the threads over time. You won't bottom out the bolts if they are drilled all the way thru. Non-factory washers (or shims) on a flywheel or fasteners runs the risk of imbalance and loosening of fasteners. Be wise here, that's a lot of heavy high-speed mass that must be mounted and retained correctly.

Frank, the bolts holes on small six go through the crank flange but they are not threaded past the back of the flange. If the bolts go past the back of flange inference will happen. A little bit short of the back of the flange is best.

 

[Jmustang_65]

I would call ARP and tell them that the flywheel crank bolts go thru to the crank case and do they recommend a loc- tight product to seal and to help a high performance straight six to prevent harmonics from loosen the bolts and if so what torque should be applied. Also tell them it is a steel flywheel. See what they recommend in this instance.

I called ARP and they said to use ARP lube under the bolt head and loc tite 242 on the threads and tq to 85 ft pounds.

 

[Frank]

Frank, the bolts holes on small six go through the crank flange but they are not threaded past the back of the flange. If the bolts go past the back of flange inference will happen. A little bit short of the back of the flange is best.

Thank you! Now I know. . . All this exciting small6 activity with these classic 'Stangs, etc. is making me want to get one. . . Don't tell my wife!, she would not let me off the hook 'til the car was in the driveway.

 

[powerband]

' 242 should suffice, for more confidence Loctite 271 should be considered.
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"... for locking and sealing threaded fasteners."
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