Help in DFW

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Anonymous

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I need some help with carb/ignition issues in the DFW area if possible. I've got a 200 in my Bronco that has typically ran fine. Not sure what carb or distro it has either. I'm not tring to makes tons of power with the thing, just want it reliable.

Having said that, I recently installed a Carter YF from a 250 that Kirk gave me. Upon initial installation it seemed to run fine. Maybe a little more power but hard to tell. Well, I asked Kirk to adjust it a little because it was dieseling a little. Not sure what happened but it started running poorly after that, idling erratically, running hot, stalling, and hard to start. Lose of power at all speed to, almost like it had a dead piston. Well, Kirk played with it a little more but it never got better. I went behind him the other day and double checked all the plug wires and such just to make sure. Noticed the bottom of the carb was a little wet, but nothing really jumped out at me. Fired it up and it ran like it used to, wierd. Drove it around for about 20 miles. It ran good at first, pulled strong. But it started acting up later on doing the same thing. It had a bad lug at takeoff, but if I powered through it, it seemed to smooth out.

Kirk says it's because I have a load-a-matic and it can't be run with the YF, and possibly a bad vaccum advance.

Is there anyone up here who would mind taking a few hours to look atwhat I've got and see if we can't work out my problems? I'd be willing to buy you a plate of BBQ and your favorite adult beverage for your time.
 
I'm way far away but I'll tell you what helped me with a simular problem. When I put my weber 32/36 it would run good and then a couple of days later it would start to run like crap. Spray some wd40 around the carb while the engine is hot and running. Notice any changes in idel speed. This will show where the vacume leaks are. I eneded up buying some really thick gasket material and making all new gaskets and then adding lock wahsers to my carb bolts. Once the vacume leaks are fixed the carb is much easier to tune. Also go ahead and put a new fuel filter on. My brand new one didn't have very good flow when I got the carb. I think our old Broncos are a lot rougher on carbs than the cars. The bouncing around really loosens bolts. Good luck
 
I am from Arlington, but I don't think I could necessarily help you - I'm not that great at diagnosing fuel problems. Might send a PM to MRaley or keep looking, I think there's about 5 of us out here.
 
Hi Bighoov,

From what I've read on the forum Kirk is probably correct about the load-o-matic and the carb. The load-o-matic dizzy needs the Spark Control Valve to operate correctly.

Maybe time to upgrade to the Duraspark II?

Bob
 
I have to agree with the posts above. Definitely check for leaks, if it leaks fuel then it leaks air. Also, you changed the carb, now change the dist.
 
Jerry,

Have you tried the new vacuum diaphram in the load-a-matic, it was bad and I proved because it would not hold one. I read upon the sticky about the SCV and load-a-matic and they have to be together to work properly, no ifs, ands or buts.
I did think that you had a regular points dizzy in your bronco. You can buy a rebuilt one for less than $40.00 at any auto parts house. IF you use the 240 carb, you will need a '68 or up dizzy. I already gave you a new cap and points set on your's.

OR

Switch back to the original carb you have w/ the new diaphram in the dizzy. Can you get a pic of the original carb so we can make sure it is the right one w/ a SCV?

Like said before, also check for leaks around the carb base. Maybe it could be your little whisle you have found.

Keep me updated,

Kirk
 
I am in Frisco but probably can't help a lot. The statements about the carb/distr issues with the load-a-matic being the root cause may not matter. The performance problem would be constant not always changing. In other words, if it made things bad, it always would be bad. It sounds like there is a vacuum leak. It is possible that the vacuum diagphram on the distr could be leaking also. As little as it would cost, it may be worth putting on fresh vacuum hoses. See if your distributor is holding a vacuum. Do the what ochretoe suggested with the WD-40. Spray around carb base, vacuum lines and anywhere you think there might be a small chance there is a vacuum leak. Make sure the bolts holding down the carb are tight. It is also possible that you have some bad gas. When it is running bad, try looking in your fuel bowl to see if there is an water or other garbage in it. Does the problem occur more when your driving level or at an angle such as on overpasses?

Do you have issues if you use the original carb? If you don't, I would suspect a carb problem.

good luck
 
kirkallen143":2t9is5c1 said:
bigjhoov":2t9is5c1 said:
This one?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/ProductD ... rentPage=0
Click to expand...

That's the one Jerry, but it seems a little high for the price. Have you tried Vatozone or Advanced Auto?

Did you pull the other one you have off the extra motor and look at it? A good cleaning and it will be good to go.

Let me know.

Kirk
Click to expand...

Nope, just Oreilly and Napa. Both are about the same price. I try not to go to Vatozone if possible, but I'll check.

I looked at the other one, it has springs as well.
 
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