Help needed with turboing a engine

[frank1966]

I have been getting on this forum for a good while and reading about all the inlines that have been turbo charged. Of coarse I got the bug and want to turbo charge my inline 170. I'm pretty good at fabing up metal and welding so that isnt my problem. I started buying parts, I have my T3 turbo, wastegate, bov, intercooler, eletric fuel pump, air fuel regulators, ignitor 2 eletronic ignition, msd boost control box and I have my j pipe fabed up, turbo in place, plumbing ran to intercooler and from intercooler to the carb. Now this is where my problem is. I have a motorcraft 1bbl carb and from all that I have been reading if I dont change the float out to a nitrophyl float the brass float would just fall apart..I found many nitrophyl float but not one for a 1bbl carb.I dont know what to do at this point. I have everything in place for a blow through system and basically i have no clue what to do about my carb. First thing I never rebuilt a carb and know very little about the jets and venturi of a carb and if need to be modify what to do with the carb..Any suggestion would be gratefully appreciated. Please someone help me and not just to find out I spent all this money and time trying to turbo charge my engine and it comes to a dead end....


Thanks,
Frank Reyes
"PROUD OWNER OF A INLINE 6"

 

[JackFish]

If you let us know what type of carb it is someone may be able to help.

 

[frank1966]

The carb is a Motorcraft and the serial/model # is DOPF 9510 J 4528 I 3016. That all thats on the carb that I can find.. I hope I can use this carb but if not I guess I'll just have to shell out to get the Holley 1946 carb..

 

[Anlushac11]

This is from the Linc 200 sticky at the top of the page.

Which carbs will work?

Answer: any one that can be made to!

After examination, I decided to use the stock 1982 Mustang carburetor that came on the engine, known as a Holley model 1946. I decided this carb would work for blow through for several reasons:

1) It has a solid black "Nitrophyl" float already installed. These do not collapse under pressure like a hollow brass one will. Many carbuertors can have a ready-made Nitrophyl float ordered, or some need to have one custom made.
2) It has an annular booster venturi. Not critical, but annular venturis tend to go rich under high airflow/airspeeds. This is a tendency that is helpful for turbo engines, since an air fuel ratio for a forced induction engine needs to be richer at full power (around 11:1) than naturally aspirated engines (around 12-12.5:1) at full power.
3) Its a Holley carb....it uses Holley jets!! Holley jets are readily available to accomplish tuning. Another alternative is drilling a stock jet, or soldering a stock brass jet closed and re-drilling as necessary to obtain correct flow rates.
4) The steel "bridge" that holds the air cleaner stud is a very solid design. Any weakness in this area will allow the "bonnet" or "hat" to blow off of the top of the carb when under pressure.
5) Numerous screws hold the top to the body. Very necessary for the same reasons - - - boost pressure tries to blow the carb apart. It needs to be sturdy.

Any carburetor can handle boost, but whether it can handle 2 psi or 20 psi will depend on its design features and stengths/weaknesses.