Pretty much all elevations. I drive it all across the country for work. I live in South Carolina but I was just in Ohio last week for work and in Tennessee now. Last fall I drove it all the way to North Dakota then down to New Mexico and across to Tennessee before going back home. I’m planning on going all the way to Washington state in January and working the whole spring on the east coast.
Exploring that website a little more I can order a 6 pack of the 30lbs injectors for $140 or 36lbs injectors for $150. Is there a downside to running bigger injectors? I’ll just order the 36lbs now if not. I figure if I end up going through the trouble of rebuilding the engine with forged stuff I’ll probably want to get silly with the boost too at some point.
Same. Yes it does get hot, plus the choking humidity on the coast.
I installed a V8 45lb regulator to the stock 300 fuel rail, same location as the stock regulator. Worked fine. Required some minor mods to the bolt pattern, but it's been so long ago I can't give specifics. Not a major mod. The one listed for a '90 f150 with the 302 I'm pretty sure.
Bronctopia
Well-known member
Usually the ECU gets a "courtesy call" signal from whatever circuit/switch/module is in command of the AC compressor clutch. This wire lets the ECU open the idle control a little to compensate for the incoming drag of the AC compressor engaging.
I believe this is more essential on Auto trans cars. A manual in neutral has little other drag and a heavy flywheel.
Many ECUs also have a kind of "Command Interrupt" function over the AC compressor clutch.
This allows the ECU to disconnect the AC compressor during times of extreme throttle opening in "pedal to the metal" moments when passing that semi is more mission critical than a dead constant cabin temp.
Yeah the Holley Terminator has both of those wires. So as long as there’s nothing else being controlled I can completely delete the factory ECU.
Sounds good. Would make a cleaner environment with all the factory wiring gone. . . The Terminator will automatically compensate for an idle RPM drop like AC cutting in. It will adjust the IAC to maintain target idle speed.
I found a Youtube video from Joe Simpson titled "Don't Buy A Holley Terminator X Before Watching This Video".
He talks about the limitations of the system and what sensors and injectors you should purchase.
I'd post a link, but when I do it states "Video not Available"
He talks about the limitations of the system and what sensors and injectors you should purchase.
I'd post a link, but when I do it states "Video not Available"
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Says video unavailable. What is it I’ll look it up.
Dude thank you so much for posting that! I had no idea about injector data. After watching the video I went back and looked through the website and didn’t see any data. I went to the reviews and they were all obvious bot farm reviews. Guess I’ll shell out the cash for some fuel injector clinic ones.
Looks like Fuel Injector Clinic’s smallest injector is the 42lbs injector. Question now is if this injector is too big to use naturally aspirated until I do the turbo later down the road? FIC is super trustworthy and they say they have great short pulse width control so hopefully it’ll be ok. I’ll wait for pmuller9 or someone else who’s knowledgeable to answer before purchasing. I learned my lesson impulse buying when pmuller9 yelled at me for buying the wrong cam lol.
As the injector gets larger, the short pulse width required for idle and cruise gets closer to the non-linear response region of the injector.
This makes the control of the fuel at very low engine loads more difficult.
It looks like the Fuel Injector Clinic's fuel injectors are advertised as having "Superior short pulse width control" which is good.
The 42 lb injectors will let you generate around 375 hp with a turbocharger in the future.
About the camshaft you ordered.
The Ford 4.9 EFI engine is detonation prone and works better if the camshaft has a long advertised intake duration.
The Melling MTF-6 has a long advertised duration of 280 degrees which works.
Secondly there are no cam cores available to grind a turbo friendly camshaft profile even if I could recommend one.
The intake lobe on the Melling MTF-6 is perfect.
All you would need to do is to have the exhaust lobes reground to 204 degrees of .050" duration and increase the Lobe Separation Angle from 110 to 112 degrees if possible.
This would give you a good low to midrange high torque power band with a turbocharger.
I didn't yell at you. I calmed myself down first, took a chill pill and walked around the block for 15 minutes before replying.
Then I calmly asked what the reason was behind your decision to buy that cam.
LOL.
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I could feel the annoyed tone in your message haha. Especially because my only reason is because that cam was the shiny one on rock auto. Good to know that getting that cam reground could make it a great turbo cam though. I guess I’ll go ahead and order the Fuel Injector Clinic injectors.
I need coils too, the coils I ordered from Rock Auto were also out of stock. Are coils as important to get right at the injectors? Are do coils just either work or don’t? That’s my understanding of coils. Will I need to get ”nicer” coils for when it’s turbo? I would think at the low power levels of the 300 it wouldn’t matter, not like the 800hp LS when they need real hot coils.
Hey back to the topic of this cam sync kit. I’m just going to use the stock distributor and cut the vanes for now. But, in the future when I’m doing the turbo and decide to clean up the engine bay, could I use this kit and grind off all but one tooth? Or does the tooth need to be a certain width or something like that?
Yeah I looked the video up by name last night and watched it. Definitely glad I did because it completely changed my mind on what injectors to buy.
I don't understand what you mean by "I’m just going to use the stock distributor and cut the vanes for now"
Do you mean you are going to use the stock distributor for now instead of going with 6 individual coils?
No I’m going to remove the TFI module, cut all but one of the tabs off the cup in there, and wire directly into the stock Hall effect. Like you had said before.
If you want to use the aftermarket kit, the tooth width shouldn’t matter.
@pmuller9 is there a specific timing set and lifters you recommend I use? Also I was just reading some other threads on here and learned about the dynamic compression ratio changing with cam changes. Will this cam be a 93 octane cam? That’s fine if it is I just need to know to run a few tanks of 93 through it before I do the swap. Will I need an adjustable timing set and have to degree the cam or will I be able to just line the marks up and not worry about it?
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