antome
New member
Hello, I figured I would go ahead and post some pictures of how I mounted a Holley 2300 to my 200 using a TransDapt #2044 adapter plate. Hopefully this info can be useful to someone. The reason that I used that adapter was simply because I got it for free from a friend and did not want to order a different one from overseas.
First I decided that I wanted to position the carburetor perpendicular to the engine and by doing so I knew that I would have issues with hood clearance. The original carb spacer was not going to work because the inlet was too small and it did not have enough material on it for me to fix that. So I decided to CNC my own spacer plate and create it out of a 1/2” aluminum plate instead of the original 1”, thus gaining some hood clearance. I also made the center hole slightly conical so that the diameter would align up perfectly on both sides (the TransDapt uses a 1-3/4” diameter while the log intake is 1-1/2”).
After that it was just a matter of putting it all together. Using an original style air cleaner was simply not going to work so I got ahold of a Spectre #98499 carb hat and remote air filter and it worked out just fine. It just barely fits under the hood without touching it so that is good
I may have gone a bit too much on the plus side with the filter size and inlet diameter though, but that can always be changed later on 
After driving it around some I have to say that the difference in performance is huge. It runs so much better now than it did before with the Holley 1940. I especially notice a big difference in low end torque. I am also using CI dual out headers, Pertronix Ignitor II and T-5 transmission just in case anyone was wondering.
But... there are a few problems (as always..) that I would like some help with:
1) The choke plate is way too loose and is rattling on idle and may also be hitting the carb hat when fully open. So, how can I fix this? If it is hitting the carb hat then I might be able to just file it down a bit, but what about the rattling sound? What would happen if I removed it all together?
2) This is probably the harder one to solve... But now that I got it all together I wanted to adjust the idle mixture to tune it in perfectly. I plugged in my vacuum gauge to what I believed was the full manifold vacuum port on the carburetor and got absolutely no vacuum reading at all on idle, pretty hard to tune with that
I used the port located down at the carburetor base plate on the front side (can be slightly seen in the third picture), could this be a timed spark port?? (I do get a reading when I rev it up) If not, then something else is wrong..
Thanks in advance!
/A
First I decided that I wanted to position the carburetor perpendicular to the engine and by doing so I knew that I would have issues with hood clearance. The original carb spacer was not going to work because the inlet was too small and it did not have enough material on it for me to fix that. So I decided to CNC my own spacer plate and create it out of a 1/2” aluminum plate instead of the original 1”, thus gaining some hood clearance. I also made the center hole slightly conical so that the diameter would align up perfectly on both sides (the TransDapt uses a 1-3/4” diameter while the log intake is 1-1/2”).
After that it was just a matter of putting it all together. Using an original style air cleaner was simply not going to work so I got ahold of a Spectre #98499 carb hat and remote air filter and it worked out just fine. It just barely fits under the hood without touching it so that is good
I may have gone a bit too much on the plus side with the filter size and inlet diameter though, but that can always be changed later on
After driving it around some I have to say that the difference in performance is huge. It runs so much better now than it did before with the Holley 1940. I especially notice a big difference in low end torque. I am also using CI dual out headers, Pertronix Ignitor II and T-5 transmission just in case anyone was wondering.
But... there are a few problems (as always..) that I would like some help with:
1) The choke plate is way too loose and is rattling on idle and may also be hitting the carb hat when fully open. So, how can I fix this? If it is hitting the carb hat then I might be able to just file it down a bit, but what about the rattling sound? What would happen if I removed it all together?
2) This is probably the harder one to solve... But now that I got it all together I wanted to adjust the idle mixture to tune it in perfectly. I plugged in my vacuum gauge to what I believed was the full manifold vacuum port on the carburetor and got absolutely no vacuum reading at all on idle, pretty hard to tune with that
I used the port located down at the carburetor base plate on the front side (can be slightly seen in the third picture), could this be a timed spark port?? (I do get a reading when I rev it up) If not, then something else is wrong..Thanks in advance!
/A
