A
Anonymous
Guest
I'm putting the Stang on a major diet and am curious as to what the stock weight is??
Thanks,
Doug
Thanks,
Doug
A
Anonymous
Guest
My '67 Coupe weighed in at 2750 with a 1/2 tank of gas, no driver.
I'd guess (wildly and with no edumacation)) that a '66 weighs a hundred or so less.
I'm targeting about 2800 with me in it when I'm done. I figure dropping the back seat, spare tire, and some interior bits might get me there. It already lost some weight with the T-5 swap. Not gonna spend anything on fiberglass bodywork unless I make it a dedicated track car (not very likely).
--mikey
I'd guess (wildly and with no edumacation)) that a '66 weighs a hundred or so less.
I'm targeting about 2800 with me in it when I'm done. I figure dropping the back seat, spare tire, and some interior bits might get me there. It already lost some weight with the T-5 swap. Not gonna spend anything on fiberglass bodywork unless I make it a dedicated track car (not very likely).
--mikey
MandarinaRacing
Famous Member
Who was it that said...
or something like that
Alex
or something like that
Alex
MandarinaRacing":pw2osgbh said:Who was it that said...
or something like that
Alex
I think it was Anna Nicole Smith :roll:
A
Anonymous
Guest
Thank you sirs for the input!!
So far I removed and weighed the following,
Heater assy & related items 27 lbs.
Hood latch & brackets 4 lbs.
Swapped original horns to newer plastic horns 1 lbs.
Removed outer bumper brkts. 5 lbs.
Radio delete 8 lbs.
Removed rear seat 38 lbs.
Aluminum wheels 8 lbs. (total)
Alloy rear drums 12 lbs.
Spare wheel & tire/jack 21 lbs.
All sound deadning 15 lbs.
Later this winter I'm swapping to a glass cowl inductionhood and probably removing the front bumper/valance and replace it with the Shelby valance.
Thought about removing my console and rear window regulator assymblies, but I dont want to go overboard....
Thanks,
Doug
So far I removed and weighed the following,
Heater assy & related items 27 lbs.
Hood latch & brackets 4 lbs.
Swapped original horns to newer plastic horns 1 lbs.
Removed outer bumper brkts. 5 lbs.
Radio delete 8 lbs.
Removed rear seat 38 lbs.
Aluminum wheels 8 lbs. (total)
Alloy rear drums 12 lbs.
Spare wheel & tire/jack 21 lbs.
All sound deadning 15 lbs.
Later this winter I'm swapping to a glass cowl inductionhood and probably removing the front bumper/valance and replace it with the Shelby valance.
Thought about removing my console and rear window regulator assymblies, but I dont want to go overboard....
Thanks,
Doug
MandarinaRacing
Famous Member
Doug! Did you know that Delta Bay Mustangs sells a delete plate for the radio, I'm thinking of getting one. I already have the heater controls delte plate that I got from a friend
BTW I also removed the wiper motor, I know you probably don't want to do that but maybe look for one that's not as heavy as the original. I've aslo thought of the shelby front apron, but I like the "stock" look, it's very deceiving, maybe some glass bumpers on custom aluminum brackets?!?!?!
Alex
BTW I also removed the wiper motor, I know you probably don't want to do that but maybe look for one that's not as heavy as the original. I've aslo thought of the shelby front apron, but I like the "stock" look, it's very deceiving, maybe some glass bumpers on custom aluminum brackets?!?!?!
Alex
Lets see. An 11.4:1 CR 204 cube I6 reving to 5500 rpm,
Estimated Horsepower @ 5500 rpm
Assumes altitude of sealevel, barometric pressure of 14.696 and 60° air supply to carburator, is a minimum of 172 flywheel net.
Add with a 200 pound Doug, there is a 2549 pound start line weight, 2400 with fibreglass front. That's 14 seconds flat wihout trying. Now lets add nitrous 250 hp, and there is 12.3 seconds.
I cant ever get my Falcon down to that, not a hope!
Estimated Horsepower @ 5500 rpm
Assumes altitude of sealevel, barometric pressure of 14.696 and 60° air supply to carburator, is a minimum of 172 flywheel net.
Add with a 200 pound Doug, there is a 2549 pound start line weight, 2400 with fibreglass front. That's 14 seconds flat wihout trying. Now lets add nitrous 250 hp, and there is 12.3 seconds.
I cant ever get my Falcon down to that, not a hope!
Years ago I put the Stang on the scales. With a full tank of fuel and me on board, the 250/AOD coupe was 3067 lbs. I think the Xflow/T-5 is maybe 150lbs lighter, but I have gained a couple of pounds since that weight in!
twentyover
Well-known member
Regarding sheeding weight from the car-
Step away from the cheeseburger.
Step away from the cheeseburger.
A
Anonymous
Guest
twentyover":32smjcbr said:
Better add an extra 35 lbs on that Deano!
I decided to ditch the center console and I ordered a B&M Z gate shifter to install in place of the stock one...
Any other ideas??
Later,
Doug
MandarinaRacing
Famous Member
Just in time for the hoildays....
$42.95 @ Summit
Alex
$42.95 @ Summit
Alex
Doug, man you are on a serious vehicle diet. With the area of the country that you live in , i would trade the heater for the glass hood, maybe front bumper & front fenders. Acceration is all about hp to weight ratio-providing traction is the x-factor. At 235 lbs. if you run it at the track, get a lightweight in the 150 lb. range to do the driving.
Less weight is just like more horsepower.
Good luck on your diet. Its your choice the car-you or both or???
more power to you, good luck, William
Less weight is just like more horsepower.
Good luck on your diet. Its your choice the car-you or both or???
more power to you, good luck, William
A
Anonymous
Guest
How about a plexiglass rear window?
simon
Famous Member
- lighten the door shell framing and replace metal skin with fibreglass door skin.
- fibreglass trunk lid.
- four quick release pins weigh less than a set of hood hinges.
- cut all the bolts to length and drill out the shanks. You can lose about 25% on each body bolt!
- modifying the seat platforms could gain half a pound as well.
and always remember, the drill is your friend...
- fibreglass trunk lid.
- four quick release pins weigh less than a set of hood hinges.
- cut all the bolts to length and drill out the shanks. You can lose about 25% on each body bolt!
- modifying the seat platforms could gain half a pound as well.
and always remember, the drill is your friend...
Howdy Doug and all:
As usual, I have some questions before I jump into the fray. Are you planning to continue driving your Stang on the street? How much creature comfort do you need to maintain? Don't scrimp on safety!
Weights on real cars vary considerably from factory shipping spec. It is best to go to a scale and get it weighed. It is best, for consistancy and comparibility, to always weigh with the gas tank full. Write it down and date it.
If the scale operator is willing, it is a good idea to weigh front and rear seperately. Individual wheel scales are the ideal. Weight distribution is very important to performance driving and handling.
Unsprung weight savings is doubly valuable. Less wheel/tire/hub (everything from the spring down) returns better suspension function, less mass to overcome. We tend to like more rubber, but sometimes bigger tires actually hurts performance and handling for these very reasons. We do have to look good though
I am continually amazed at the length of bolts FoMoCo used to put together my Ranchero! If those bean-counters were so zealous, you'd think they would have caught that cost and weight savings. I have a coffee can of cut-off bolt tips that slowly keeps growing. Someday I'll weigh it.
Note the amount of plastic and alloys in new Mustangs. Have you replaced your glass head lights with plastic ones? I think Phillips is the maker. They are more volnerable to road rash and hazing, but they are lighter.
The hood hinge and spring mechanism on a '66 Mustang is heavy. replacing it with a hinge/prop rod mechanism from a Fairmont is worth at least a couple of pounds. I'm looking at doing this one on my Ranchero.
Keep us posted on your progress. OOps, I guess I jumped in!!
Adios, David
As usual, I have some questions before I jump into the fray. Are you planning to continue driving your Stang on the street? How much creature comfort do you need to maintain? Don't scrimp on safety!
Weights on real cars vary considerably from factory shipping spec. It is best to go to a scale and get it weighed. It is best, for consistancy and comparibility, to always weigh with the gas tank full. Write it down and date it.
If the scale operator is willing, it is a good idea to weigh front and rear seperately. Individual wheel scales are the ideal. Weight distribution is very important to performance driving and handling.
Unsprung weight savings is doubly valuable. Less wheel/tire/hub (everything from the spring down) returns better suspension function, less mass to overcome. We tend to like more rubber, but sometimes bigger tires actually hurts performance and handling for these very reasons. We do have to look good though
I am continually amazed at the length of bolts FoMoCo used to put together my Ranchero! If those bean-counters were so zealous, you'd think they would have caught that cost and weight savings. I have a coffee can of cut-off bolt tips that slowly keeps growing. Someday I'll weigh it.
Note the amount of plastic and alloys in new Mustangs. Have you replaced your glass head lights with plastic ones? I think Phillips is the maker. They are more volnerable to road rash and hazing, but they are lighter.
The hood hinge and spring mechanism on a '66 Mustang is heavy. replacing it with a hinge/prop rod mechanism from a Fairmont is worth at least a couple of pounds. I'm looking at doing this one on my Ranchero.
Keep us posted on your progress. OOps, I guess I jumped in!!
Adios, David
A
Anonymous
Guest
Nice choice of a Christmas gift for me Alex! I'll PM ya my address so you know where to ship it!
Well, to answer some questions,
The car only gets driven around 5,000-7,000 miles a year from April to the end of October so being the heater didnt work and I didnt need it anyway, it got removed! All these parts are sfely tucked away for future use though!
David,
To answer your questions, yes I still want to drive it on the street, I dont need much as far as creature comforts...car has manuel brakes, manuel steering, no A/C and no stereo to speak of now except an am/fm radio and a new dash speaker.
I really need to weigh it this spring so I have somthing solid to go by...
I was looking in my stack of stuff and found a Ford new car digest for 1966...it states that the approximate curb weight for a 66 Mustang is as follows,
Hardtop: 2606
Fastback: 2637
Convertible: 2768
I guess I can also add to the "delete" column is the rocker panel mldgs, front grille "horse & corral" & the qtr panel tri bar emblems....
Not yet! I would like to this winter. I was looking at the tri bar lights from Mustangsplus. I was also looking at getting one of those lightweight starters and I've been researching new style plastic and aluminum radiators to fit our cars...
If I can locate the proper radiator, I would think between the 3 items above, I could probably shave another 20 lbs off it!
No more ideas on engine mods except a stall convertor & Holley fuel pump, so thats why I've been so hot about trimming weight the past couple of months.
My ultimate goal is to have the fastest naturally aspirated Ford small 6 in the U.S.
Later,
Doug
Well, to answer some questions,
The car only gets driven around 5,000-7,000 miles a year from April to the end of October so being the heater didnt work and I didnt need it anyway, it got removed! All these parts are sfely tucked away for future use though!
David,
To answer your questions, yes I still want to drive it on the street, I dont need much as far as creature comforts...car has manuel brakes, manuel steering, no A/C and no stereo to speak of now except an am/fm radio and a new dash speaker.
I really need to weigh it this spring so I have somthing solid to go by...
I was looking in my stack of stuff and found a Ford new car digest for 1966...it states that the approximate curb weight for a 66 Mustang is as follows,
Hardtop: 2606
Fastback: 2637
Convertible: 2768
I guess I can also add to the "delete" column is the rocker panel mldgs, front grille "horse & corral" & the qtr panel tri bar emblems....
Not yet! I would like to this winter. I was looking at the tri bar lights from Mustangsplus. I was also looking at getting one of those lightweight starters and I've been researching new style plastic and aluminum radiators to fit our cars...
If I can locate the proper radiator, I would think between the 3 items above, I could probably shave another 20 lbs off it!
No more ideas on engine mods except a stall convertor & Holley fuel pump, so thats why I've been so hot about trimming weight the past couple of months.
My ultimate goal is to have the fastest naturally aspirated Ford small 6 in the U.S.
Later,
Doug
MandarinaRacing
Famous Member
You forgot to add LOG HEADED small 6.....
Alex
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