How much HP and Torque?

I've had my car for four years now. Added headers, a weber, have gone through three different ignition systems, two exhaust systems, swapped in a c-4 and an 8" rear, etc. So far, most of my efforts have been in updating the suspension, brakes, electrical system to make the car reliable, safe and fun. I've got all the receipts. I haven't added them up, but I'd be surprised if I was under $20k including the price of the car. It's a nice car for the money, but it's a dog. Sure, it'll cruise at 80, but my best 0-60 (calculated by my little winshield mounted computer) is 12 seconds and I can't even spin the wheels.

At his point I'd be happy with enough power to do a burnout, maybe spin them into second, and hang the tail around a corner. How much power is that with a c-4? I don't know. This engine is supposed to make 190 ft-lbs stock. Not a chance that's true or I'd be laying rubber all over DC. If I could get close to that kind of performance (say a sub 9 second 0-60) for 10% of my total budget thus far, I'd jump at the chance. I'm hoping the new head with some nice rocker arms for around $2,000 will do the trick and I can get on with some driving. :twisted:

Turbo? very tempting, but I'm too lazy to do the work. I can probably swap the head in an easy day and be pretty satisfied with the results. When my bottom end dies I'll do the basics there and pick up some power and smoothness, but not until I absolutely have to. If I can make a phone call and have a hot short block show up at my door instead of hassling with the local engine builder, so much the better. It's only a matter of time before I need one.
 
PB - the computer screen will show a pretty marked trend to power drop-off that the operators can see. They don't want to mess up the dyno with splattered oil and metal bits, but otherwise will milk it until that HP curve starts falling away.

FF - What is the condition of your engine internals, as in CR, wear, all that? Have you thought about a shift improver or stage I B&M shift kit in your C4?
 
falcon fanatic":b64njthx said:
At his point I'd be happy with enough power to do a burnout.

Wow......When my all-stock, 1-bbl 200 was still in the yellow '82, I could "one wheel peel" the right-rear 14" tire anytime at will, on any asphalt or concrete surface. I think the rear gears were 2.73's in that rear, maybe 3.08?

Even before I put the turbo on, when I dropped the engine in the silver car (with 10" slicks and 3.73's and a TIGHT trac-loc) I could light up both slicks....still with a bone-stock 200. Still is that way, even with the turbo since I have to start the burnout with zero boost, and don't get boost until well into the burnout.

I'd like to see what's up with your car :?: :?: :?:
 
Okay, Im going to jump in here and try to cut through the BS a little...

If Mike was selling a crate type engine package in the 3k range that would put an honest 220 HP to the rear wheels, I think you would have a winner.

In these cars, 220 or so at the wheels will give you a Low 14 second car(High 13's if you set it up right). That makes for a car that actually feels fast.

And that is perhaps a reasonable goal. Look at chevy's ZZ3/ZZ4 for an example of a wildly successful crate engine.

If you could meet the above performance with near factory reliability, I think you would have a product that would be very saleable. I would definately be interested.

Just make sure you keep it simple and as close to bolt in as you can. Remember your target market isnt those of us who enjoy figuring things out or building exotic combos... We will be the ones buying the piece parts. For crate engines its those who like the idea of writing a check, installing an engine that goes in just how the stock one came out, and getting the performance of a modern sports car. I know plenty of people like that.

How you go about getting there is a more technical question :)
 
i'd answer with a turbo. the things kelly and will are doing makes it the easy answer. linc put together a very respectable setup with what seems like a tight budget. and of course there's dragstang. until someone else steps up with some similar numbers with an N/A six, i'm saying turbo...
 
To answer Addo and Linc's questions, I think the engine is fine. Runs smooth and pulls hard all the way to 100mph. I suppose I could do a compression test, though. Keep in mind it is a small log head with 3.25 traction lock rear and an auto trans spinning 205/55-16 tires. The gearing is a bit tall. With the stock 3.50 rear and the one-barrel I could do one-wheel burnies, albeit short ones. I actually think I may have lost a bit of bottom end power with the weber 38 versus the stock carb, but I more than made up for it on the top end.

Still, I bought the car from a guy who said he had rebuilt the engine himself, so you never know.
 
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