How much initial timing are you guys running?

[Anonymous]

My 170 wants a TON of initial timing to run right. I have an Offy with three 1909s, and a custom made cam. I don't have the card in front of me, but it is somewhere in the neighborhood of 250 duration, with about a .425 lift on a 108 degree lobe center. It runs with the tining set at 8 degrees, but it idles really rough, and continues running rough up until about 2500 RPM. The more timing I put in it, the better it runs, meaning by adding another 8 degrees, it starts running right by 1500 RPM. By adding a few degrees more, it merely idles rough, but when accelerated, it smooths right out.( I understand bigger cams will make it idle rough, but this acts more like a miss than a lopey idle) I don't even know what the timing is now, its so far off the pointer I can't read it. Is this normal? should I just accept it and be happy it runs well( other than idle)? what are your experiences with initial timing and aftermarket cams???

 

[mikeyo]

Hi, I'm new here and doing my first ford six.
However I been playin with motors for awhile and thought I might suggest a couple of things.
1. Be sure the marks on the timing pointer are right. You can remove the #1 spark plug and have a helper turn the engine by HAND while using a thin rod (brazing rod, straight section of coat hanger, etc) to reach through the spark plug hole to determine when the piston is at TDC.
Work back and forth on the engine rotation to try and determine as close as possible when the piston is truly in top dead center position.
If the mark on the balancer is 180 deg off then turn engine crank 1/2 turn and find TDC again. If the timing mark is not close to 0 deg then you need to determine why. Could be a mismatched balancer. You could remark 0 deg on the timing mark at this point but it would not be as exact as if you had the head off and were using a dial indicator and degree wheel but it might get you in the ballpark in the marks are really off.
2. Are you using a stock cam, head , compression ? If cranking compression is way down you would need tons of initial timing to smooth the engine out at the lower ranges. Usually band aiding low cylinder pressure with tons of advance will cause detonation under full throttle. This is usually heard as "spark knock" and will quickly tear up your engine.
Again, I am no expert on Ford six, I am learning too, but I have done a lot of small block Chevy, SB Ford, and some SB Mopar and the things I mentioned apply to all of them.
Good Luck.

 

[Anonymous]

Many of us are running 12 to 15 degrees and even higher. For a while I was playing with 20 deg initial because my new distributor was not kicking in much centrifugal timing. After buying two remanufactured distributors for different cars the past year, I am beginning to wonder if they curve them very conservatively.

As mentioned, verify the TDC and make sure the balancer ring has not slipped. If that checks out, look into buying a dial back timing light. After using a standard light for 20 years, I made the switch to a dial back light a few years ago. It is an immense help in adjusting the the timing curve characteristics of the distributor.
Doug

 

[CobraSix]

With my set up, I'm running 8* BTDC.

When I ran the offy, I ran around 14* BTDC.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

I'm running around 10 degrees initial advance. Anything more than that it seems to lose power.

Later,

Doug

 

[Anonymous]

12 degrees advance...

Steve-O

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the input. I am using a Cornwell advance timing light. I'm at about 22 degrees initial, and it seems to like it...I think I need lighter springs in the mallory, and then I should be able to dial it back a little bit.

 

[PutPut6]

I'm running about 15deg advance with premium gas.

 

[DYNOED250]

with my aussie 250 im running 24 deg with a locked dissy. no advance at alll... its got high comp and massive cam so cranking pressure are verry low.. i

 

[63Falcon200]

I'm running about 28 deg.. with the points and the tri-carb...

 

[Does10s]

17 initial with a total of 27. But we're running a turbo!
Pulls like a mutha from a standing start.....read: boatloads of torque!
Will

 

[Ronn]

Well, the old trick is to advance the timing until 1 of 2 things happen...until it starts to ping, or loose power. Usually it will ping first. Do this under full throttle on the road. When you get it to ping, back off until the pinging stops, then back 1 more degree.

Works for me. I'm at 14 initial. The last mark on the tag.