How to remove rust from inside the block

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I bought a brand new 3 row radiator a couple of months ago and before installing it i flush the whole engine with those additives they sell well heres a couple of months later and my engine is running kinda of hot and i noticed i alot of rust chunks in the radiator so i'm sure some lines are plugged already. How can i flush all that rust from the block once and for all???

for info I'm running a 250 with electric fan...no room in engine compartment for orginal fan :roll:
 
Is there a place near you that does radiator flushes. That would be a suggestion i would think would work. They hook the machine up to one end of the radiator hose and hook the other hose to the hose going to the block. IT flushes out all of the old antifreeze in the engine and in the radiator. Hopefully, something like that would get rid of the deposits you have.
 
what about the stuff from the dishwasher? Shouldn´t that work at least a bit?

What about acid-based cleaners?
 
i used that radiator flush twice before putting in the new radiator and i guess it didnt work.
 
There's probably just too many chunks to get them with a chemical flush.

It won't eliminate the rust, but you can prevent it from clogging the radiator by installing a Gano radiator filter in the upper hose. They don't cost much and you can clean it out from time to time.
 
Jack the Gano filter is a great device but there is no room to install one in an early round body Falcon. The upper radiator hose is too short to splice the Gano in. I've already been down this road. :(
 
8)

Well its not easy and its not pretty but the easiest and best way IMHO is to pop out the freezeplugs and start scrapin away at what you can get to with the coathanger. If you can get a small wire brush in there so much the better.

Then you can turn the block upside down and try to knock out the loose stuff then you can flush it out.

Heck you might even try CLR(Calcium Lime and Rust remover). It works pretty good in the house and might help with the rust and calcium deposits.
 
If the gano won't fit one thing you might try is to insert a cone shaped filter made of stainless mesh in the radiator inlet. That will catch most of the junk and you can pull the hose to check it periodically. Saw that technique used on a V12 Jag once and it seemed to work ok.
 
Has anyone used the magnet that clamps to the lower rad. hose? This is the same method that has been used on cooling towers since the 30's.

About two years ago I had gone completely through the system replacing the pump, all hoses, heater core, re-cored the rad, and flushed the system. The system ran clean for about three to four weeks before installing the magnet. After less than a week of summer driving the coolant was a deep chocolate brown. I flushed the system again and ran water only for a few days, same dark brown coolant. After replacing the coolant a number of times it finally started to run clean.

If you can find the large pair of magnets for cooling systems give it a try.

Good luck, Ric.
 
61chero":1cepgc9q said:
falcon 62, so i take it u have no solutions to this problem :cry:
Yeah, I do, but it's a labor involved process. The only way to eliminate the scale in your engine is to tear it down and have the head and block baked at a machine shop, and have a radiator shop clean and flow test the radiator and heater core. Once that's done, don't use tap water in your system. I buy de-ionized water (no minerals, less likely for rust to form)and mix it 50/50 with anti-freeze, and that's the only coolant I use. Outside of that, I don't know how else to cure your problem.

Regular cooling system maintenance will significantly reduce, if not stop, the formation of rust and scale in your cooling system. Granted, you probably inherited years of someone else's negelct. However, if you run several cycles of the flush/refill process, you may get your cooling system cleaned out enough to where it will function. Problem is, all the stuff that gets loosened up, but doesn't fully dislodge, may end up plugging the radiator and/or heater cores. :(
 
my friend said to use straight antifreeze not to dillute it the car will run much cooler :roll: , is that true???
 
You have a 250 in a 61 Chero, your right you don't have much room.
Just a thought, could you take two upper hoses and jog the system over in front of the battery and install the Gano filter over there?

Also I once made a solution of Navel Jelly and distilled water and ran it for a few days. Dissolved all the rust chunks, but it’s a bit corrosive so if you try this flush well. The block was clean as a whistle when I finally flushed it out.
 
If I remember my chemistry correctly, nothing absorbs heat better than straight water. The need for the “anti-freezeâ€￾ is just that, to keep the water from freezing at lower temps. Today there are also anti-corrosive chemicals added to the mix. Like the special mix you should use for the aluminum cores.

On a side note, I was told that some of the aluminum cores are manufactured using glue. Apparently the glue is only good up to approx. 300 degrees F. If that is true, then a system that starts having a problem with an aluminum core had better be maintained before it de-laminates.

Ric.
 
While water with an additive like 'water wetter' may be the best as a coolant, most of us require at least some level of winter protection in our cooling systems. In that scenario, you want no more than a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze/water. There are exceptions to this, but I'm not going to get into the extremes.

PS - Tomorrow is the first day of summer, today's high was supposed to be 67, I just checked the thermometer and it's 48! :shock:
 
At the risk of being Dr Evil..... :twisted: there is a last resort. Use Mutraic acid, a swiming pool doser. It is super dangerous, and I can't be held resposible for the safety aspects of the out come..... If you drank the stuff, it would cleanse from the soul of your body to the sole of your shoes. But it'll clean the cra* out no worries. :wink:
 
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