All Small Six Hydraulic Lifters on Solid Cam?

This relates to all small sixes

Crustang to Mustang

Well-known member
I am very limited with my budget based on how much work needs to be done on the car itself. This got me to prioritizing. I eventually want solid lifters so I don't want to just get a better hydraulic cam, but at the same time I can't afford a solid cam, solid lifters, and an adjustable rocker arm assembly... So I came across this Motortrend article. I need advice. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...UQFnoECBAQBQ&usg=AOvVaw1dDGC9N1Xyis6iIHLCniVl
 
A stock 250 cam. As far as I know.
I don’t understand the problem.
If you are buying a new camshaft, Solid and Hydraulic flat tappet cams cost about the same.
A solid lifter on either one would need adjustable rocker arms.
So please explain the problem as you see it.
 
I can't afford everything at once, so I was wondering if I could run my stock hydraulic lifters on a solid Clay Smith cam. That way I wouldn't have to get the solid lifters or the adjustable rocker arms yet.
 
Do y'all have any recommendations when it comes to an aggressive hydraulic camshaft?
I'm fighting valve train stability with an aggressive hydraulic lifter cam right now.
Aggressive hydraulic lifter cams have always had a fine line between not enough spring pressure to prevent float and lifter pump up and too much valve spring that creates lifter collapse.
 
The springs will depend on what the installed height is.
You must first determine the retainer height and what the installed spring pressure is needed for the cam you are using.
Then you need to get the correct spring rate for the correct open valve pressure.


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Right now I've just got a '73 large log, but I'm considering trying to fabricate a new head out of a couple of Boss 302 heads.
The 200/250 six has a 4.08" bore spacing with a 3.68" bore
The Ford small block V8 has a 4.38 bore spacing with a 4.00" bore.

How would you make that work together?
 
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