I have 1,300.00 For Engine PART II

[Anonymous]

Alright guys, Lets say you all were in my position (and u had no mechanical expirence like me so u had to pay someone else to install all the parts and rebuild the engine) and you had 1,300.00. Okay, well from that the cost of labour of putting all the parts in and other stuff (wat ever it might be) and you had 600.00 left. What would you recommend (i.e. like a list of parts to buy) with 600.00 that would be performance enhancing. Note ** Im gonna need headers (2 outlet) --> which means i am gonna need an exhuast system .. ect

Also, I have a 302 in my garage and i have permission to sell it. So if anyone wants or knows someone who might be interest, plz pm mee.. and that way i can have more money for parts

Thank all of you on this forum, truley.. thank you a lot!!

 

[Anonymous]

start by buying beers for people until you find someone that can help (look for old guys wearing Ford hats)! It'll cost less than paying for shop labor! That's what I did!! No seriously..I did. Made good friends with a guy here locally who happened to have a shop and an old Falcon...

if that is not doable, you need to get recommendations on a mechanic from someone in the area. Don't just take it to the closes garage in town. You will mind paying good money for labor a lot less if things are done right....the first time.

Take my recommendations with a grain of garlic as I am still a newbie myself...I have however just compelted what you did. I would focus on upgrading the valve train (cam, lifters and pushrods, timing set):

http://www.cquesttechnologies.com/fspp/ ... prod=PAK-B

There is $270 of it and if the guy is reassembling anyway, your labor is accounted for.

I think large valves would probably be of great benefit:
http://www.cquesttechnologies.com/fspp/ ... D200%2DPFS

You're up to $375

I'd look at getting a 1bbl to 2bbl carb adaptor. Stovebolt's are $15 and CLifford's are almost $70. For your tight-budget build up, the Clifford's may not warrant the extra $50+:
http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartp ... oductid=91
http://www.cliffordperformance.com/cata ... 067525.htm

Then a 2bbl carb to top it off (Stovebolt's rebuilt progressive 2bbl for $65):
http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartp ... oductid=95

That make $455 if my math serves me

Then, the DSII distributor, cap, rotor, cap adaptor, wires, plugs, control box, coil (and the unforseens) will eat up most of what's left.

Then I'd start saving the pennies for the exhaust.

This way, you've got better than average valve train, 2bbl induction, hotter ignition.

Again, opinions are opinions and let me be the first to tell you, others here have MUCH more knowledge and credibility than me!

 

[Anonymous]

You might consider looking around for someone with a 200 that's doing a V8 swap. You might get a serviceable motor without the need for a rebuild. Then you can invest your $1300 into better upgrades. Check you current motor- does it really need to be rebuilt, or are you just assuming it does?

Spend the $10-15 on the Falcon 6 Performance Handbook. Even if you're a total dunce with tools, it gives you a lot of ideas on some proven performance mods that work. It can be a worthwhile guidebook for the parts you buy to have someone else install. It also tells you a lot of things to look for in wrecking yards that can save $$ vs. buying new parts.

Also buy a tuning manual. Learn how to do the basic tune-up stuff so you don't have to pay for it. You lack experience now, but you can gain valuable experience as you go. At least learn some basics.

If you haven't committed to anything yet, don't. Do some research first and figure out where you want to go with your engine. It sounds like you're on a budget, so plan for easy mods and avoid going deep into the internals of the engine if possible. If you make a reliable, moderate motor now, you can always go for serious performance mods later on when $$$ allows.

That said- assuming you can find a good long block, here's what I recall being the best bang for the buck based on other people's experience:

Electronic Ignition- DSII or Pertronix
Headers
2bbl carb conversion- Holley 2300 350CFM, Autolite 2100, or Holley-Webber 32/36 for a mild motor

All can be done without pulling the head (if you use the right carb adapters), and should wake up the motor. And you can probably get away with those for $600 if you shop around. That may be optimistic with installation labor, so don't quote me on it.

--mikey

 

[Anonymous]

How did I manage to forget the "bible"?? BEST $15 you'll spend...GARAUNTEED!

http://falconperformance.sundog.net/

 

[gtm1086]

Ok so you have only $1300 to spend. If I understand you right the guy is doing a complete rebuild on your current motor for $850. First of all that is a pretty good price if he is truly rebuilding the entire motor. I think by the time he is done and everything is up and running you will be real close to the $1300 you have. But if you do have some extra funds. While the engine is opened up I would go to a larger cam followed by the DSII ignition and a high out put coil. I would then next go with an improved Carburetor. Followed up by the header. Also a copy of the Ford six performance hand book is a must

 

[CobraSix]

I second the idea of looking for a swapped motor. I found my current one with 5000 miles on it for $100.

There is even one on ebay now that was rebuilt, it's a short block for $350.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

LOL yeah, I bought the handbook about a month ago. Im like pretty much done with it. But, becuz im a total newb, i dont know all the terms they manual is talking about so i am always going back and rereading things.

 

[LaGrasta]

Jeff in San Diego is selling his hopped up motor with only 500 miles on it.
kremicki@sbcglobal.net This was just 3 weeks ago. He still might have it.
I was going ot buy it myself, but I really don't need one and my wife wouldn't let me.

 

[Lazy JW]

I shall continue in my role as contrarian. The guy said that he only has $1300 for this project, and in another post mentioned that he is limited to $80 per month allowance. That just dosen't go very far these days, especially when you have to pay someone to tear down and re-assemble the engine. My advice: Put the money on things INSIDE the engine. Don't just assume, but verify that you are getting a good (probably reground)crank with new bearings (mains and rods). If you think you will ever want a better camshaft, NOW is the time, and definitely do the double roller chain. Is it being re-bored or just a new set of rings? Is the block being hot-tanked to clean it up? These are the things that will matter later on. All of those nifty things on the outside can be added/replaced at a later date when you can afford them, one at a time, but the internals get costly/time consuming and you have to pay for all of that extra labor, right? Forget about bigger valves, port work, fancy valve gear for now unless you just want to look at it and never drive it. ($1300 budget, remember?) You will get more bang for the buck out of a good street cam than anything else, and with it already installed the goodies that you add later will really pay off (bigger carb, headers, ignition, etc.) Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go? Build a good solid short block, get it running, and then have fun 8)
Joe

 

[Anonymous]

I couldn't agree more. Do the internals NOW while the block is open BUT bigger valves can make a significant difference. He'll probably need/want to have hardened seats cut in for unleaded anyway, so for $100, he gets much better valve flow.

I took his post as he'll have $600 left over AFTER all of the machine work and parts to spend on EXTRA goodies.

 

[CobraSix]

Exactly.

For the $600:

Enlarged Valves
Hardened seats
Cam shaft
Double roller timing chain.

I agree...get the internals set now while the engine is out! cheaper in the long run. Will you see the improvements behind the stock 1V carb? No. But when you are able to upgrade you will.

Slade

 

[addo]

Actually, you will feel the difference, even with a one-holer carb. Mate had a '63 Falcon with a reground (reprofiled) cam and the good old Loadomatic. Don't think it even ran headers. It had a nice choppy idle and plenty of stick for a 170. Your engine would just run out of breath at the top.

 

[Lazy JW]

As I am ever the pessimist, I really do question just how much of an overhaul you can buy these days for $850 including labor. Maybe he is truly getting a fantastic bargain, but most of us aren't that lucky. It's pretty easy to spend that much on just parts and machining even if you do your own teardown, cleanup, inspection, and re-assembly.
Joe

 

[Anonymous]

Well okay, let me ask you guys this .... I can install different headers later on? Like without diong anything else to the engine (... like i juts take off the old headers and put on the new ones?)

And what is the best cam shaft for me? (Im pretty sure everything is stock in the engine, dnt think n e thing is bored) ...

Double roller timing chain .... And this .... If I get this i am gonna need other parts to install it? that's the main thing about cars i noticed. heheh .. if you want to buy a new part for your car .. ya gotta buy like 3 more things just so it works..

thanks all

 

[Anonymous]

The cam slides in through the front of the block, under the timing chain cover which also is where the timing chain and gears are. I think you could do a cam with the motor even IN the car, but you may have to remove the grill and center support.

You absolutely can swap from stock exhaust to headers without doing anything else (except of course, new pipes and mufflers).

The gents here will give recommendations for cam...that's above my working knowledge. You should be able to swap the timing gears and chain and cam and not replace anything else...assuming all else is good. Hopefully the dampner will come off without disintegrating.

You will need a timing chain cover gasket.