any other advice on using these headers? My main goal with my engine is mpg. I'm hoping these will help with a bit of free flowing, non restricting exhaust.
The original Hooker installation kit came with the port divider . The SuperComp dual outs' instructions called for the port divider to be ground carefully to fit into the head snugly with an INTERFERENCE fit. They said to leave a few thousandths or "just enough to feel" protruding past the flange and then use their gasket and bolts (small 3/8 heads) to bolt it up. Simple and can't rattle loose.
I used this method and it worked OK but found small amount of blowby/blowout around port/divider/gasket upon disassembly. I liked the idea brought up in previous thread of attaching a divider to the header flange by drilling through and tapping for fasteners but it is more complicated.
I had the machinist weld in the divider on the last incarnation of head I've worked on but I am waiting to see how his MIG work holds up with the cast head. Only time and temperature will tell.
Powerband 8)
PS: If you are looking for ideas on finishing the installation, take a look at the Super Comps on my '61 Comet. They go out the collectors to stainless flex-fittings, then to JC Whitney "turbo" muffflers, then to a Y combiner , then to a cable operated dump valve which allows for either the big side pipe in front of Rt wheel or original pipe to glasspack in original muffler location to original tailpipe location (although 2"). I can drive stealth quiet with a low rumble or out the "turbo's" and dump to give a much louder attitude. :roll: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v296/ ... 20exhaust/
BTW - Here's a problem that apparently is common with the Super Comps'
I needed to FORM (with the BFH) a depression in the pipe and hangar them up toward the tranny slightly to prevent the interference with the steering link on the '61 when turning. Better would be to flip the center link, but that requires reboring/tapering the idler arm ... (KISS ! ).
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