I raced my 200 in the 1/4 mi.!!!!!! i think i need a V-8!!!!

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All i have to say is.................WHAT WENT WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I raced my 200 that is souped up, bored .040 decked the block .040, milled the head .060, flatop pistons, rotating assy' balanced, crank turned .010-.010, msd box, electric fan, hi-po ignition distributor, ported-polished head, bigger intake valves header, clifford 272 cam, 1 bbl., rhoads lifters, and all i got out of the 1/4 was this: my best time was 17.323 sec. @ 77.748mph with a reaction time of .631 and my second run was 17.357sec. @ 77.600mph with a reaction time of .298 I thought we could do in the 13's or 14's or even 15's, what went wrong???what must i do to get faster? i already spent close to five thousand into the engine!!! help me out, any ideas
has any one else ran the 1/4mi.? :x :x :x
HIS TIME WAS 16.474 SO I WAS ONLY .8(EIGHT TENTHS OF A SECOND BEHIND HIM AT THE FINISH LINE..NOT TOO BAD I GUESS??)

although there is one good thing---the 1st race, i was against a 350, 4 bbl and i had him off the line and half way through and he pulled ahead just before the finish line( i think his secondary's kicked in) if i would've raced a 302 or similar i think it would've taken him all the way!!!!
 
What gears are you running? I doubt that 1bbl is helping you any either.
 
the rear end is i think a 7 1/4" with stock 3.20:1 gears and i don't know wherei could find any other gears for it.
the 1bbl is a Carter YF @ 220 cfm compared to the stock @187cfm's

anybody have a Holley 2 bbl. @ 500 cfm's, we'll get this BAD BOY smokin' the tires and get some good times on the 1/4mi.!!!!! :D
 
82F100SWB":qczodib8 said:
Lose the Rhoades, the 1bbl, and, maybe re-gear.....
Evan
Click to expand...

I agree with Evan. Those Rhoades lifters are kicking your 272 cam back to almost a 252 equivalent.

And you need a bigger carb, maybe a Holley 350 2bbl.

The rear doesnt sound that bad. Bigger carb and dump the Rhoades should make a notable difference. Should at least get you in or darn close to 15's.
 
i had him off the line and half way through and he pulled ahead just before the finish line
Click to expand...

You said it all, no power on the top end. Ditch the 1V and the lifters. :wink:
 
I'm not sure you need to change out the lifters. With the RPMs up, they ought to do fine. Is this a manual? What box?

Rather than regearing, what about a wheel/tyre change? You don't mention the rubber used.

Any other tricks, like running off the battery for the quarter, or even just switching the fan off? Gross weight is another important consideration.

Adam.
 
Did anybody mention ditching the Rhoades and the Carter? ;)

Oh yeah, and get a set of headers... 8)

Seriously, the engine is only one-third of the battle. Your chassis has to be set up for launching, the tranny and rear geared properly, and ya gotta have decent tires. Rock-hard 14" OEM skinnies, yer gramma's torque converter, and highway gears just ain't gonna cut it... :?
 
Ok, what we got again, a 66 'stang that had all of ~67 hp at the bags (85 hp SAE net) as a stocker, and perhaps 2650 pounds to lug around. Bet it's got headers and a C4 auto, right? A thirty percent boost in hp isn't to be sneezed at!

I just plugged 110 hp and the weight of a good strong 200 pound American, and used this formula

etcalc.GIF



Standing Quarter Mile 17.24 sec ( dunno what the mph is because I left my scientific calculator at work)

*Rpm at end of I/4 mile(1320 ft) = flying through the traps at 4700 rpm in second sounds pretty darn good to me. (calc based on 23.0 mph @ 1000 rpm in top with C4 and 3.20:1 gears if you have P185 R14's)

*Standing 1/8 mile (660 ft) = 11.81 sec

*Standing 330 ft = 7.77 sec

*Standing 60 ft = 3.28 sec.


All it needs is a nice big #2300 Holley with a float bowl which will still allow you to do a gymkhana without flooding, and you'll be doing 15.7's. Come on, give the old girl some better carburation!
 
I'm guessing you're making about ~100hp at the rear wheels, maybe 120-125 at the flywheel, so you've gotten big gains over stock already. A bone stock 6 cylinder mustang does well to go 20 seconds @ 65-68 mph.

But you have a lot more potential. You just need to improve airflow. ~200 cfm is not enough to get to the 155-165 RWHP level that you need for a mid-15 second pass. That means you'll need 185 - 190 hp at the flywheel, and that will take at least a 500 cfm 2bbl or a 390 cfm 4bbl (if you can figure out a way to adapt a 4bbl).

The tradeoff is that you might lose some low speed driveability. You will probably get a decent idle, but driving at 1500 rpm around town might be tough. Try the 350 2bbl as a compromise.

The other alternative is to lighten the car as much as possible. With driver, an early 6 cylinder Mustang should weigh in at about 2900-3000 lbs. If you lose the back seats, extra fuel, spare, jack, and everything else, you might be able to take as much as 200 lbs out of the car. Every 100 lbs is worth a tenth.
 
Jack, my Mustang Red Book lists the '66 Coupe 200 CID/MT as 2450 lbs curb weight. That means (IIRC) with battery, oil, water and 3 gallons of gas.
 
Gotta add the driver too, Stan. :) I haven't weighed mine since putting in the Crossflow, but with the 250, AOD, 1/2 tank of gas, and me, mine tipped the scales at 2975, so figure 2775, less driver for my coupe. A full tank would have pushed the weight to over 3000. The car is probably 200 lbs lighter now.
 
This might make you feel alittle bit better,try finding a sight that will give you a altitude corrected E T & mph.I think Bowlings might have one on their site.I don't know what the natural altitude is there or what the weather inhanced altitude was.For instance with decent night air for us here in Az my 01' ford Expedition ran a 17.12 at the track I work at.This past weekend at Las Vegas it ran a best of 17.89 with the altimeter hitting 6,400-5,500 above sea level at a natural altitude of around 3,500 IIRC.Check on it and see what comes up, but ya get a 2bbl on that thing and good luck!
 
i think a 2 bbl. would be fit for it---but about the lifters, Rhoads lifters are RACING LIFTERS, made just for racing. they are specially made for more low-end torque. they say the lifters make the cam a 20 degree less grind until it hits 2500 rpms's then it kicks in for the real grind-thus more low-end torque so are you sure i should drop the lifters still....i wonder......

Has anybody went with 3-1 bbl.'s instead of a 2 bbl.-does 3-1's work better and flow more air evenly ???tell me all you know, maybe this is a better route for me to go.........
 
Cmon now give yourself a break. Your doing about what a 2 or maybe even 4 bbl stock 289/auto would do. Plus, was it hot when you ran? Elevation?

Ditch the little POS rear, I doubt it will handle 13s or 14s or even 15s if thats what you want. Get an 8" with 3.55s or preferably 3.73s. Get a five speed stick on there too. Otherwise I say you'll never see anything below 16s even with a carb and some lifters.

Saddling a little motor (however peppy) with tall ass gears and 3 speeds is not a recipe for killer ETs.
 
Or I guess you could just go with a C4 and a stall converter (alot of fast cars run 3spd autos) but with some nice low gears it wouldn't be fun to drive around all the time.

Is this your driver or just a weekend car?
 
66pony":1p3jhrj2 said:
i think a 2 bbl. would be fit for it---but about the lifters, Rhoads lifters are RACING LIFTERS, made just for racing. they are specially made for more low-end torque. they say the lifters make the cam a 20 degree less grind until it hits 2500 rpms's then it kicks in for the real grind-thus more low-end torque so are you sure i should drop the lifters still....i wonder......

Has anybody went with 3-1 bbl.'s instead of a 2 bbl.-does 3-1's work better and flow more air evenly ???tell me all you know, maybe this is a better route for me to go.........
Click to expand...

Rhoades lifters are a band-aid that enable you to run. however badly, a full-race cam (290°+) on the street. They have NO application with a moderate cam like yours.
 
Tri-carbs will work well to up the power. Even splitting the log and running twin carbs will increase performance. Three CD type carbs such as Stromberg or SU will provide a lot of "oomph", but require some dedicated ongoing tuning (think British cars). Triple Weber DCOEs wre hard to install without a little surgery to the bay, and of course some kind of adaptor to the head (available).

Regards, Adam.
 
Cobrasix-

Do a search on Jegs or Summit for them and you should find all the advertising info.

I don't know the mechanical details, but it's supposed to give reduced lift at lower rpms so a huge cam will run on the street. All V8 guys I know say that they're only good for big cams, like Strangeranger says. If you use them on a milder cam, you can run into problems because it gives too little lift at low rpm. Possibly a good product, but only for the right application.

--mikey
 
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