I think the timing mark on my pully is wrong

[Pete W]

They replaced the pully on my 1961 Comet with a dual pully for an A/C compressor. I'm not sure it the mark on the pully is a rock chip or the mechanic who installed the dual pully put it there. Anyway, the car is not running good and I would like to make certain that the pully timing mark is correct. How do go about checking to see if it is in the right place and if not putting a new mark on it at the correct spot.

Thanks,

Pete

 

[fordconvert]

There are several DIY methods that I cant remember the specifics for the little fords but I know it has been coverd here in this fourm. If no one replies do a search for things like 'TDC' or 'top dead center' and 'timing'. Dont worry someone will be along soon with details, this is one of the best boards with the best people on the net!

Also check to make sure nothing got distrubed like a wire or hose pinched or kinked.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HAY
one way is to make a piston stop... using an old plug.. brake out the procilen part of the plug install a bolt letting it protrud into the cylender when you screw the plug in... screw it into #1 turn the crank BY HAND Counter Clock wise mark where it stops, turn it Clock wise and mark where it stops agian in between the marks is TDC.
Another way is to just use a small screw driver in the #1 plug hole and watch that it don't bind while turning the crank by hand when the piston stops comming up that shold be TDC.
Now there is two (2) TDC's per revalutions of the crank one for TDC of the Compression stroke (the one you want) and one TDC for the Exhaust stroke (this one the dizzy rotor well be pointing 180 deg off of #1 wire).
tim

 

[addo]

If you do it that way, remove BOTH battery leads - just as a precaution against forgetfulness!

 

[Pete W]

Thanks for the reply

So you are saying to stick a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole and turn the fan/belt clockwise until it stops. Then make my mark on the pully next to the engine block TDC mark.

Could I shine a flashlight into the spark plug hole and watch until the piston reaches the top?

Thanks,

Pete

 

[pedal2themetal45]

Thanks for the reply

So you are saying to stick a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole and turn the fan/belt clockwise until it stops.
Yes just be sure the screw driver doesn't bind up as the piston pushes it up. actualy when it stops moving it should be at TDC so your timming mark should be at "0" Now the Rotor in the dizzy won't nessaraly be pointing at the #1 wire in the cap. as the crank turns twice to the dizzy's once. So it could be pointing 180 off but thats OK you cold be at TDC of the exhaust stroke. So it should be pointing to the #! wire in the cap or 180* off
Then make my mark on the pully next to the engine block TDC mark.

Could I shine a flashlight into the spark plug hole and watch until the piston reaches the top?
you could but its hard to see in the plug hole

Thanks,

Pete

remember to turn it by hand
Tim

 

[Anonymous]

My favorite method is with #1 plug out and ground wire removed.
step 1--take off dizzy cap turn engine so rotor is pointing at #1 wire on cap--usually 90* from engine towards driver side fender. And check that timing marks are just before TDC.(rotate for timing mark.
Step 2--Stick a drinking straw on top of #1 cylinder.
Step 3--rotate engine till straw stops rising and starts to fall then rotate back and forth again till you determine TDC. Check timing mark.
step 4-- if points at this point adjust with Ohm meter to have points just opening at about 8* BTDC(this is called static timing)
Tip if you are doing a full tune up--pull all the plugs, engine is really easy to turn then. Firing order on all inline sixes i have ever worked on ( I was a mechanic by trade in the 70's) is--too young(15), too old(36), just right(24).153624-- Now its' Grand kid-Oldest kid--youngest kid--theyre all too young--Shoot when did that happen??
Oh and 2 wires flipped will run halfway decent and sometimes not even sound bad--just won't make much power and not be as smooth as silk. WhiteOut is an excellant marking medium on the timing pulley.

 

[Anonymous]

If you loosen a lot or remove the other spark plugs, the engine will turn over very easily. Mark your wires for re-install.
Cheers,
Steve-O

 

[Redfalken]

Here's a piston stop I made like Tim described.

I think they also sell them at Summit Racing.

 

[Pete W]

step 1--take off dizzy cap turn engine so rotor is pointing at #1 wire on cap--usually 90* from engine towards driver side fender. And check that timing marks are just before TDC.(rotate for timing mark.

When I look at the rotor should it be pointing directly at the number one cylinder with the points open? When I put it on the old timing mark the rotor is about a quarter inch before the number one plug clockwise.

Step 2--Stick a drinking straw on top of #1 cylinder.

Got it

Step 3--rotate engine till straw stops rising and starts to fall then rotate back and forth again till you determine TDC. Check timing mark.


Got it


step 4-- if points at this point adjust with Ohm meter to have points just opening at about 8* BTDC(this is called static timing)

How do I do this? My manual says with a manual transmission it should set at 4* BTDC.

Thanks

Pete

 

[addo]

Disconnect all sources of power to the points. Clip one meter lead to the dizzy body, and the other to where the condenser normally goes.

Turn the damper carefully so that "actual TDC" mark you have made/confirmed, is now 8 degrees before (ie, to the left of) the zero on your timing pointer scale.

Loosen the dizzy clamp bolt. Turn the unit gently clockwise until the meter shows near zero resistance (circuit closed). Now turn it back ever so gently until the points open, and it goes infinite resistance. Lock down the dizzy.

Now, the rotor will be close to one of the cap terminals. Ideally, just a hair anticlockwise from one. That terminal is the number one plug wire's location. Then reassemble your plug wires clockwise in the regular order.

 

[Pete W]

If I find TDC using the straw method should my rotor be pointing directly at the number one plug?

 

[fordconvert]

On the 200's it does not usually point at the plug, thats usually a V8 thing where it points to the plug. It should be pointing at the terminal on the cap that goes to #1. The distributor does not know or care which of the 6 terminals is #1. Make sure you are on the compression stroke (I think we coverd this but just a reminder).

 

[Bort62]

Or you could just start the car and turn the distrbutor cw/ccw until it runs better

A lot less work, really...

 

[CobraSix]

If I find TDC using the straw method should my rotor be pointing directly at the number one plug?

Well, it should be looking close to #1 plug wire.

I use a magnetized bolt picker and then proceed similar to the straw method. I like the bolt picker as you can extend it further and get a more accurate reading for TDC.

When I get ready to get my car back on the road, I may end up writing a procedure for this since it is asked a lot and extremely diffifult to visualize if you haven't seen it before.

Slade

 

[Pete W]

How do I do the bolt picker method?

 

[CoupeBoy]

Or you could just start the car and turn the distrbutor cw/ccw until it runs better

A lot less work, really...

On an older running motor that you cannot trust the timing marks on any longer, I like to use a vacuum gauge hooked up directly to the intake. A dwell/tach meter hooked to #1 and set my cars to run at the highest vacuum at the correct idle speed. This does take some fiddling with the mixture and idle set screws but gives very good results.

-ron

 

[Bort62]

Just remember, just because the timing mark is at a certain position when the engine is not running does not mean it doesn't move once its spinning. On an older car where you can't trust the balancer - the best way to time it is to do it dynamically.

 

[CobraSix]

Why would the balancer be the issue? More correctly, it's the timing chain. If your timing chain is that loose, it's time to replace it, plan and simple, otherwise you are just masking the problem.

Slade

 

[CoupeBoy]

Why would the balancer be the issue?

Because the rubber layer between the center of the balancer and the outer ring will allow the outer ring to move in relation to the center section. Its why people were searching for new balancers or having thiers rebuilt so that the rubber layer has grip to it again and can be trusted. Otherwise the outer ring may not be synchronized with the inner ring, which I suspect is his problem.

-ron