Identifying an engine.

[Sy Hollinshead]

Hi, i am a new forum member, and have just imported a 1964 Econoline Travelwagon into the UK, from California....

I am new to these straight six engines, and they are very rare over here in the UK, so will probably have loads of questions.

The first one is this, can anybody tell me what engine i have. The chassis plate says that it should be a 170, but i have no engine number that i can find. This is the only photo i have at the moment, but i can take more if necessary....

Also, does anybody know where i can get an air cleaner assembly from, as the one on the engine is a bit on the small side...!!!

Regards
Sy

 

[jahearne]

The Falcon 6 Performance Handbook is a must for the newcomer.
http://falconperformance.sundog.net/

If it has 5 freeze plugs underneath the exhaust manifold, it's a 200. If it has 3, 170 most likely. I'd think eBay or craigslist trying to find an aircleaner. Not sure if they are unique to vans.

 

[Sy Hollinshead]

Right, i had a quick look from underneath the vehicle....

Do you mean the small freeze plugs in the cylinder head, directly behind the exhaust manifold, or the bigger ones that are lower down, in the engine block....?

I found a code on the engine block whilst i was under there, it reads:

C6DE
6015-B

Does this mean anything.....?

Regards
Sy

 

[Sy Hollinshead]

Just had a quick search on here, and found a link to a site with some piccies.

http://www.geocities.com/edwins63/SB6.html

Going of this info, i have had a look, and mine has 5 freeze plugs in the engine block. So this would suggest that i have a 200 in mine, which means that it has been swapped at some point from the original 170. Is this a good thing...?

 

[ludwig]

Yes it's a good thing if you like more power.

That is indeed the casting code which will tell you the year of the block. And those are the diagnostic freeze plugs lower down on the block below the exhaust manifold.

You will be very pleased with all the information specific to the I6 in the Falcon Performance Handbook. It's generally regarded as a must have here. Plus, you get one of its authors chiming in periodically.

And welcome. Glad you're here.

 

[brm]

Sy
I sent a pm for you, I have an extra oil bath air cleaner for your travelwagon. looks like you have a 200 cu.
Brian

 

[CoupeBoy]

When we ask about freeze plugs we are talking about the bigger ones in the block.

I checked for your casting number on
http://fordsix.com/tech/misc/casting_numbers.php

But did not see it, the closest that I did see was a C6DE-A which was a 200 from 1966.

-ron

edit: dang, I took a couple minutes to talk to a guy and then I hit 'submit' before 'preview' and I'm coming in last in this race...

 

[Sy Hollinshead]

Sy
I sent a pm for you, I have an extra oil bath air cleaner for your travelwagon. looks like you have a 200 cu.
Brian

Thanks, but i don't seem to have received a PM...? I'd be very interested if you did have one for sale....

Also, another question, in the picture above, directly below the silly little filter, there is a short section of rubber pipe that has a bolt shoved in the end to block it up. Where is that supposed to go...?

Regards
Sy

PS This forum is great....

 

[salty_monk]

This might help with Carb ID & you can then look up the function of that tube...

http://www.carburetorfactory.com/index.html

The block ID is very similar to mine which is a 67 200.

Dan

(I'm in California but come from London originally so new to these engines too!)

 

[ludwig]

Detective looking at the sign next to a shattered display case in the museum.
"My good man, you've been swindled. That's not a Mukkanese Battle Horn. That is a shoe."

It seem to me that you have a blind pipe where your accelerator pump should be. Also, the in line fuel filter has been switched out in favor of a simple compression nut on the front of the fuel bowl.

Hard to say if it's do-able at this remove, but I would get a rebuild kit for a Autolite 1100 carb and get it back to stock. The distributor spark advance vacuum should come off the manifold and the auto transmission vacuum modulator (if you have one) should come off the side of the carb toward the rear.

 

[jamyers]

...you have a blind pipe where your accelerator pump...

Ludwig, that's not an accelerator pump, a shoe or a Mukkanese Battle Horn. That is an Autolite 1100 Carburetor Bowl Vent Passage. Plugged with a lot of hardware.

But on the other hand, I don't see any fuel filter in there as well.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Sy:

And welcome to THE FORUM. The problem with the block casting number is that it was used on both 170s and 200. THe C refers to the decate of the 60's. the 6 to the year in that decade, The D relates it to Falcon, THe E denotes that it is an engine. THe next 4 numbers denote it is a block. Heads have a 6090. The B indicates an engineering change.

The number of freeze plugs are the best indication.

The copper tubing with the rubber hose plug is where the bowl vent is sposed to be. It should not be plugged. The distributor should be a Load-O-Matic, which is vacuum advance only (THere is a good sticky at the top of this forum explaining its function. Is should be hooked to a port on the carb. It appears that your engine still has the original steel tubing line from the carb to the distributor. The vacuum advance is dependent on the Spark Control Valve (SCV) on the carb to send the correct load signal to the distributor.

May I suggest that you purchase two shop manuals; one for the engine, a '66 Falcon or Mustang, and one for a '64 Econoline.

What transmission is in this vehicle?

Again welcome to the best forum on the internet.

Adios, David

 

[ludwig]

Ludwig, that's not an accelerator pump, a shoe or a Mukkanese Battle Horn. That is an Autolite 1100 Carburetor Bowl Vent Passage. Plugged with a lot of hardware.

Then I've been swindled because there is an accelerator pump shaft sticking out of the bowl vent of my 1100 and it's connected to the 'power valve' per the diagram.

Sy, 'adios David' is a co-author of the Performance Handbook. He's a fine fellow and all but a little humble. He should have said three books and mentioned his own as well.

 

[Sy Hollinshead]

Hi

Well, i've just bought the Performance handbook, and i now have an Econoline manual, so hopefully i'll be able to get some good info from those....

The carb is not running right at all, it absolutely floods with petrol, which comes out of a small pipe right at the top of the carburettor. The engine will not run for very long. I do have a new carb on order for it, which will hopefully help matters slightly.
There is a fuel filter in line between the carb and the fuel pump...

The transmission is a 3 speed auto, thats about all i know. The ID plate on the van states that it was originally a manual, so somebody has changed quite a lot of bits by the look of it...

Regards
Sy

 

[jamyers]

Sy, Sounds like some trash is in the float inlet valve, an easy fix. I'd seriously look into rebuilding your existing carb, unless its throttle shaft has eaten away at the carb body (not likely) I don't know about over there, but here in the States "rebuilt" or "remanufactured" carbs you get from parts houses are pretty much complete junk/abortions/garbage, apparently rebuild by gorillas using rocks for tools and sticks for precise measurement. Now, a PonyCarbs carb is reputed to be good, but not cheap either.

The 1100 is a very simple carb. If you've ever messed with an SU then it'll be a piece of cake.

Then I've been swindled because there is an accelerator pump shaft sticking out of the bowl vent of my 1100 and it's connected to the 'power valve' per the diagram.

Hmm...are you talking about part #13 in this pic? It hooks to the accelerator pump (parts 43, 44, 45 located on the side of the carb).

The 1100 bowl vent is one of the most useless things...doesn't seem to matter whether they're 'working' or not. I think it was added by Ford just to please some EPA overlord drone.

 

[ludwig]

Yes, inspector. That is indeed part 13 sticking out and now it seems to be connected to the accelerator pump -- on my carb that is.

 

[HARVEY LIGHT]

I had the same problem not too long ago - turned out to be a bad seat for the needle (out of a new carb kit no less), petrol pours out of top, engine dies due to flooding in the extreme. Rebuild carefully and clean, clean clean the orifices. by the way as we say in Wales - bore da, sut mi heddiw? Welcome to the most informative place on the internet for the inline sixes.

 

[ludwig]

Rebuild carefully and clean, clean clean the orifices.

Absolutely. I'd do it sitting down at an an empty table covered with a piece of light colored paper, not newspaper, so you can find all the springs and balls and such after disassembly. Use a plastic bowl to avoid sparks with the solvent and blow out all the orifices with a can of pressurized air from a computer store. Also pipe cleaners for the larger passages. Then put a second inline filter up close to the bowl, as in the stock applications.

Mind the adjustment of the needle valve/float too. Try and get a brass float, not foam or PVC bulb. They will melt with modern ethanol mixed gas.

You can do it. As we say around here: Glenfiddich or was it Nochandoo. Whatever. Uisgebaugh.

 

[Sy Hollinshead]

Cool, so i need a rebuild kit then.

Can you tell from the picture exactly what kind of carb i have, somebody mentioned 1100....

What make of carb is this, and where can i find a rebuild kit in the States that i can order online....?

Regards
Sy

 

[Asa]

you should be able to order a carb rebuild from just about any company that deals with your engine, or any vehicle that came with the small six

i've had good dealings with National Parts Depot, very helpful staff, usually good information to be had from them too