Identifying an engine.

[ludwig]

Maybe you can get a pic from the other side as well. It will tell you if there is a spark control valve or not and post it here. That would enable the savants here to ID your carb with greater accuracy.

I ordered a whole carb from Pony Carbs. I was very happy with the service. Not cheap though. Anyway, they asked me a bunch of questions about the carb and the application, like specifically if it was AT or standard transmission and something else. Heat, electric or manual choke or whatever. Not all 1100s are the same.

 

[Sy Hollinshead]

Ok, i've just been out in the freezing cold and dark night to get these piccies for you....

The thin metal pipe in the last picture goes from the carb to the distributor.

The transmission is a 3 speed auto, thats about all i know at the moment...

Regards
Sy

 

[ludwig]

David will undoubtedly chime in with more sophisticated info, but you do have a 1100. (I say 'eleven hundred'; you might say 'wun wun nil nil'.) It obviously has a manual choke and no automatic transmission vacuum modulator line. The small tube off the side is your vacuum spark advance.

And, based on more complete evidence, I still maintain that someone has taken your *ahem* accelerator pump shaft and replaced it with a pipe on a blind hose, i.e. an aftermarket Mukkanese Battle Horn.

You might check the transmission with an eye toward identifying it correctly, i.e. 2 or 3 speed, and locate all the salient parts like the vacuum modulator line, transmission coolant lines to the lower radiator, the kickdown lever, shifters, neutral safety switch, etc. This will tell you what is missing from the tranny setup and/or what else you need to do.

From here, it looks like the PO (previous owner) threw away the engine and drive train but kept the original carburetor.

 

[Sy Hollinshead]

Thanks

The transmission has the coolant lines hooked up, and the fluid is at the correct level.
The kickdown lever is present, but not currently connected to anything. There is a bar missing, but i can fabricate something that should do the job. The neutral safety switch is currently not connected to anything. I will sort this out when i rewire the car...
I've never even heard of a vacuum modulator line.....!!!! Is it a problem that i haven't got one....?

Sy

 

[ludwig]

It's the thing that causes the transmission to shift gears at a certain speed/vacuum level. Could be you never had one or that it is a later innovation.

I'm just the admitting nurse. We'll have the specialist down in a bit. Please wait over here. Thanks. In the mean time, try and get some sleep. It's late.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back Sy and All:

Ludwig is doing a great job. I think he needs to be promoted to, at least, a PA.

Your carb is indeed and Autolite 1100. It has been converted from an automatic to a manual choke. The Float bowl vent rod (#13) is missing and the vent hole has been plugged with copper tubing and rubber hose. It is an auto trans carb with a dash pot on the outboard side. This carb has had the center mount for the air cleaner removed from the top of the air horn. I don't know if that will be an issue for you or not. A stock '66 200 for any car would have an air cleaner mounted with a single center bolt protruding up from the middle of the carb. I don't know what an Econoline may have had.

The carb appears to be in serviceable shape, and could likely benefit from a good cleaning and rebuild kit. The SCV is there and should deliver the proper advance signal to the L-O-M distributor.

You might start by putting a good fuel system cleaner through the gas tank and spraying down the inside and outside of the carb. Next verify that the damper timing mark is at zero TDC. Next will be to start with a new set of points and condensor, and possibly new spark plugs. Next, you'll need a vacuum guage and a timing light.

This is a good project. Keep the info coming.

Adios, David

 

[brm]

Hello Gentleman
the vent tube is correct for econolines, a tube from the top of the carb with a small bracket holding it in place. Sy is missing a second metal tube after the short lenth of hose that runs down the back of the engine block, under the floor pan (about 1ft) and then turns down to vent below the transmission on the right side of the trans. the carb is correct for 1964 with a C4 trans. the transmission is very rare as it's a one year only set up due to the tail shaft housing and the main shaft is much shorter than the passenger car C4, in 65 Ford changed the trans mount but still used a short version C4. as noted he is missing the kickdown linkage at the carb but has the correct linkage from the gas pedal for a auto trans. all econolines in 1964 had manual chokes. I have a photo of the same carb off of my 64 and a photo of the kickdown linkage parts, sorry, but I don't have an image hosting service. old and slow I guess.

Brian

 

[Sy Hollinshead]

Ok, so the tube that is blcoked off is basically just a carb overflow vent, that just vents out underneath the vehicle....?

I have managed to find an online supplier of rebuild kits for the autolite 1100, so i have ordered one of those.
Now i just need to find out about the vacuum modulator now.

Thanks for all the help so far.

Sy

 

[Asa]

Hello Gentleman
the vent tube is correct for econolines, a tube from the top of the carb with a small bracket holding it in place. Sy is missing a second metal tube after the short lenth of hose that runs down the back of the engine block, under the floor pan (about 1ft) and then turns down to vent below the transmission on the right side of the trans. the carb is correct for 1964 with a C4 trans. the transmission is very rare as it's a one year only set up due to the tail shaft housing and the main shaft is much shorter than the passenger car C4, in 65 Ford changed the trans mount but still used a short version C4. as noted he is missing the kickdown linkage at the carb but has the correct linkage from the gas pedal for a auto trans. all econolines in 1964 had manual chokes. I have a photo of the same carb off of my 64 and a photo of the kickdown linkage parts, sorry, but I don't have an image hosting service. old and slow I guess.

Brian

i'm not sure we need to pay attention to what's correct for Econolines in this case, we just need to focus on what he needs to do to get everything running correctly, he's stated that he's got a 200, where he should have a 170, and that the transmission has been swapped

if he's going with a stock setup it will be beneficial, but i don't think he's even talked about his actual plans

 

[Sy Hollinshead]

Well, the plan is to make an economical and reliable engine, so whatever is best really. Reliability is the main target....

I am also hoping to convert the van at a later date to run on LPG, as it is half the price of petrol here in the UK....

 

[jamyers]

Hello Gentleman
the vent tube is correct for econolines, a tube from the top of the carb with a small bracket holding it in place. Sy is missing a second metal tube after the short lenth of hose that runs down the back of the engine block, under the floor pan (about 1ft) and then turns down to vent below the transmission on the right side of the trans. the carb is correct for 1964 with a C4 trans. the transmission is very rare as it's a one year only set up due to the tail shaft housing and the main shaft is much shorter than the passenger car C4, in 65 Ford changed the trans mount but still used a short version C4. as noted he is missing the kickdown linkage at the carb but has the correct linkage from the gas pedal for a auto trans. all econolines in 1964 had manual chokes. I have a photo of the same carb off of my 64 and a photo of the kickdown linkage parts, sorry, but I don't have an image hosting service. old and slow I guess.

Brian

Good info to know. (I knew those carb vents were useless!) Thanks for chiming in.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back:

Hey Brian- that was some great insight to the Econoline world and their uniquenesses. How about a measurements for the trans, so Sy can determine if he has the rare '64 Econoline version or the longer, later version.

What about the Air Cleaner and attachment for an Econoline? What type of air cleaner and how is it attached to the carb?

Adios, David

 

[brm]

I have a pic of the econoline trans. can some one post it for me if I email it to them.
I think that his van came from the factory with a C4, the linkage from the gas peddle linkage is completly different for a manual trans. Sy has the correct C4 linkage but part of it is missing, that would be the kick down portion. also on the right side of the carb, what looks to be a second accel pump is the anti stall dashpot thats needed for the auto trans. if Sy can post his info from the data plate on the drivers door I can tell if it was a factory original C4.
the carb is missing a "U" shaped clip that attaches A 9" diameter oil bath air cleaner
He has a really nice engine/ trans combo and he's not far off from making it work correctly. the early C4 is very desirable among econoline enthusiasts. very few were ordered in 64 with a C4.
I get out in the garage and dig up the parts and take photos and try to find a picture hosting service that won't tax my brain to much.

Brian

 

[jahearne]

Ludwig is doing a great job. I think he needs to be promoted to, at least, a PA.

I second that!

Well Sy, looks like you're in good hands. I come back after a weekend off and find a lot of good info here and we're all learning about Econolines.

 

[Sy Hollinshead]

Yes, i like this place a lot....

Lots of useful info about an engine that may be very common over your way, but is not well known over here in the UK. Most of the Mustangs that get brought over here tend to be the V8s.... I had a 1970 Fastback with a 460 in it, but that had to go to make way for the Econoline...

Thanks for all the help so far. I'm just waiting for some of the parts to get here now, and i'll let you know how i get on.

Regards
Sy

 

[Sy Hollinshead]

Well, the new carburettor arrived in the post today, so despite the bad reviews from some people on here, i decided to give it a go.

First of all, i'd just like to say that this has been the quickest and easiest carburettor change i have ever done. 2 nuts that are nice and easy to get to, and its off....

Here is the new carb:

As you can see, the metal pipe that caused a bit of debate is present on the new carburettor as well, so it looks like its supposed to be like that.

I changed the fuel filter, and turned the starter to get a bit of fuel through the carb, and it fired immediately....
There was no excess fuel pumping out like i had before, and no more big black sooty marks have appeared on the garage wall.... Result.
The new carb can stay on for now. I have a rebuild kit on order for the old carb, which i will rebuild and use instead i think, but for now, the new carb seems to be running fine.

Sy

 

[jamyers]

...no more big black sooty marks have appeared on the garage wall....

Oh, don't worry - it'll find another way to mark its territory.

Seriously, nice looking carb - where'd it come from?

 

[Sy Hollinshead]

I bought it from RockAuto, before i heard about the reputation of rebuilt carbs. But it seems ok to me. I had a good look at it, and everything was put back correctly from what i can see... The proof will come when i have to drive the thing, but that won't be for a while yet....