Illustrated autolite 1100 tuning page?

[Anonymous]

OK, I've tried to adjust my autolite 1100 on my own (and I'm not that bright) but things still don't seem right. The car runs amazing untill it gets a bit warm then it seems like it's getting too much fuel. The only adjustments I've made are to the fast idle screw. I've tried seemingly a million different settings (all with the fast idle). What other adjustments should I try or can anybody point me to an illustrated page that shows what other adjustments I should try?

I know there are a ton of posts about this but none seem to turn on my light bulb, and short of one of you coming down here and holding my hand I think an illustrated example is my best bet.

Another idea would be somebody helping me out one on one and the two of us putting such an illustrated FAQ together. I am a webmaster by trade and would take all the pictures and put the page together and post it to whatever site wants it.

Just a couple of ideas and pleadings from a frustrated guy that wants his car to run well enough to trust it enough for a ride sans cell phone.

 

[66200i6]

Is the choke working? When it starts to run like that pull over and take the air cleaner off while the engine is running. Make sure the choke plate is standing straight up.

Good luck, Ric.

 

[Anonymous]

what are the symptoms that make you think its getting too much fuel...

I have same carb and wondering....

 

[CobraSix]

This is my earlier Autolites 1100 101 course. They are real easy to tune, really only 4 adjustments:

okay... Autolite 1100s 101:

There are only 4 adjustments you can really make on the 1100 Autolite:

1) The rich/lean adjustment of the choke. real easy, loosen the 3 screws on the choke housing and turn it the desired direction to make the choke release sooner or later (leaner or richer). You usually don't need to mess with that one.

2) The choke throttle screw. Just forward of the choke housing, there is a screw that will adjust the opening of the throttle based on the choke being on or off. one again, usually only adjusted once to adjust the choke. Only thing to be aware of, make sure that screw is not forcing the throttle open when the choke is off.

3) on the rear of the carb, close to the base, on the driver's side of the carb, there is a screw (not the choke screw) that adjusts the base opening angle of the butterfly at idle. This one took me a long time to figure out what it did, but basically you use it as a "rough" idle adjustment. get the RPMS to within 50 of what you want (clockwise opens the butterfly, thus increasing RPM). This one threw me for loops for weeks this summer as I couldn't get my RPMs down, and couldn't figure out why. That screw was the reason.

4) Last, but definitely not least, is the idle fuel/air mix screw. This is on the passenger side, front, on the base of the carb. it is basically your "fine" idle speed adjustment screw. real easy way to tune it. you can either go with a vacuum gauge hooked up the manifold and turn the mix screw until you get max vacuum. Or you can do it by ear (or tach). First,turn the screw clockwise until it is all the way closed (do this with the car off), then turn CCW 2.5 complete turns. This gives you a good startingn point. Now start the car up, and turn the screw CCW until the RPMs go down. by turning CCW, you are richening the mixture and eventually you'll flood it and teh RPMs will drop. when the RPMs start to drop, start to turn the screw CW slowly counting the number of turns you are doing. you are going to turn the screw CW until the RPMs drop again. This time, it is dropping because the carb is running too lean. Now, turn the screw CCW between 1/2 turn and 1/2 the number of turns you made from teh rich RPM drop to the lean RPM drop. personally, I usually do about 1/2 turn from the lean drop as this gives about the best mileage and performance.

Make sense?

SLade

 

[Anonymous]

CobraSix,

Thank you for posting that.

And thank you search feature.