I'm in a mess

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Anonymous

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I was removing my cylinder head a few days ago and as I was taking out the cylinderhead bolts, one of them broke off in the block. So I finally got around to trying to get it out today and I drilled the bolt and I started using an easy out. The easy out broke and is flush with the bolt, so I tried drilling the easy out out and my drill bits would barely even cut it. So I called around to a few places and they said since I tried doing it mysef first they won't touch it. I don't know what to do. I have one more machine shop I am going to call and if that doesn't work I will be stuck in a real big rut.
 
is it flush with the block?

i know i've seen some innovative solutions in here, let me try and dig them up
 
I just ordered a double cut, tree radius end bur for my die grinder. I will see if I can make a lil head way with that.
 
I have never heard of an easy out not snapping off and really screwing things up. Why do they even make them anymore. I tossed out my unbroken ones long ago.
 
My views haven't changed. If you have access to a MIG welder, and the bolt is not too deep int the hole, try welding something to the end. A washer usually if there is any nub exposed, otherwise a smaller bolt might work. The heat from welding expands the old bolt, then the heat transfers from the bolt to the block expanding the hole and the bolt shrinks back down, now loose. It nearly always works the first time. If the welded on part breaks off, Let everything cool off, weld it back on, and keep going.

Easy-outs... suck.

You'd be better off stabbing yourself in the hand with an ice pick.
They are designed incorrectly. If a 9/16" bolt is locked in enough to shear, a super brittle easy-out, half the diameter of the original bolt hasn't got a chance in hell. I can't even think of an application that an easy-out would actually work in.
I threw all mine (the few remaining unbroken ones) into the trash, to make sure I wouldn't try to use one, again, in a weak moment of desperation.
Rick(wrench)
 
The good old easy outs.
I learnt pretty damned quick the first time I used one, never gonna touch them again!

]Last time I had a bolt snap, I ended up drilling it out to just about taking the threads off, then pulled the remainder of the bolt out kinda like a coil.
Hasnt worked again since, I fluked getting the drill straight.
 
Make a safety plan on how you use the following.

If its the front bolt by the water pump, then we will have to devise another cunning plan.

1. WD40, then Penetrating oil on the bolt margin. Wait a day

2. Get a small quantity of Liquid nitrogen or C02 extinguisher.Schools and engine reconditioners, or a doctor who likes to kill warts is fine. Ring one who does house calls, and ask him if he can remove the wart on your cylinder bolt!

(There are anathermic kits around which cool items down on braking a seal, but they are expensive)

3. First, heat the block with warm boiling clean vegatable oil. Heated by a wok or fry pan. Place this on the pistons at half mast or fully down in the bore nearest the cylinder which has the studyly stud.


4. RTV a coffee can lid in the water pump hole, and fill her up with hot water.
Then place boiling hot water in the block.

This heats up the block, making it bigger. Then spray the bolt with nitrogen or a co2 fire extingisher, and then try screwing it out. It will want to come out.

I like impact drivers and awls or pilots. You can really smash them hard in the direction of lossening, and it feels good.

Praying or chanting profanties may assist the cause acording to your faith, but its gonna come out, okay?
 
:idea: With regard to heating the block, up here we have block heaters, plug 'em in every day. Perhaps this would help.
 
I have successfully used ez-outs quite a few times. The trick is to drill the bolt out DEAD CENTER until you are ALMOST into the threads. This relieves the stresses and allows the ez-out to work.

A MUCH better solution is a set of left-hand twist drill bits. Star small and keep going to a bigger size drill until it grabs and spinns the broken bolt out. A bit of heat always helps.

If you have access to an electric welder, lay a nut on top of the broken stud, Reach INSIDE the nut with the electrode and weld the nut to the broken bolt, filling the inside of the nut with weld. Let it cool but not too long, then turn the nut with a wrench.

Joe
 
Well I am victorious!!! Thank u very much to all of u who gave me suggestions. I tried pretty much everyone without success until I came to the suggestion of using the dremel. Well I have a dremel and I have a die grinder, so I went to the harware store and bought a dble cut tree shaped carbide bit for my die grinder. It ate away the easy out and the old bolt like they were butter. Now I just need to get a tap so I can clean the threads up and I will be ready to reassemble as soon as I get my new cylinder head bolts and gaskets in this week. Thank you again for all the suggestions and help, it really kept me motivated.
 
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