nearGettysburg
Active member
I am wondering about flat tappet cams and lifters in these engines if the stock spring pressures are used. Does diesel motor oil provide enough protection?
All Small Six Importance of Zinc in our stock engines?
- Thread starter nearGettysburg
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
ohhh bois' , here we go ... 
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yes it is still generally advisable to use oil with "ZDDP" in it for flat tappet engines like small and big block Ford six'. Synthetics have their advantages and enthusiasts with and without added 'ZDDP'
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MOST diesel rated oils have some 'ZDDP' .
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iconic STP and many snake oil additives list as containing a good amount of 'ZDDP' if you're concerned ...
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... expect opposing, differing and empirical responses
.
.
have fun
( Rotella 15/40 & STP keeps my sixes a tappin'... )
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yes it is still generally advisable to use oil with "ZDDP" in it for flat tappet engines like small and big block Ford six'. Synthetics have their advantages and enthusiasts with and without added 'ZDDP'
.
MOST diesel rated oils have some 'ZDDP' .
.
iconic STP and many snake oil additives list as containing a good amount of 'ZDDP' if you're concerned ...
.
... expect opposing, differing and empirical responses
.
.
have fun
( Rotella 15/40 & STP keeps my sixes a tappin'... )
Rosella is not what it used to be. As well as additive package for diesels. I would not use a diesel oil. If you would like to do some reading on the subject, not from a manufacturer or someone affiliated with a brand….:
PSIG
Famous Member
There is no single magic chemical. "Oil" and ZDDP is not a good lubricant for us. ZDP/ZDDP and its variants are only one of several, and they all work together without conflict when balanced properly. Yes, ZDDP is important for scuffing on cam lobes and lifter faces, but so are others things in oil, especially modern oils with other stuff that does similar protection, and others that can block their effectiveness. IOW, just high ZDDP content is not the complete answer.
I would suggest a search of other oil threads, and some of the videos @63 Sprint posted on cam and lifter failures.
I would suggest a search of other oil threads, and some of the videos @63 Sprint posted on cam and lifter failures.
The link below is a good place to start.
Or here:-https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Oil%20Composition%20and%20Additives/44/zinc/396
nearGettysburg
Active member
Thanks guys--I didn't intend to start another "oil" thread. Don mentioned " It’s good to remember a stock 6 cylinder does not ask as much from an oil as a high performance 6 cylinder.'" Exactly my question--those light spring rates don't ask too much---but who wants to knowingly risk cam and lifter failure?
Thanks for the links--i will be reading
Thanks for the links--i will be reading
. Make sure you take into account when a manufacturer or a sales associate is the one telling you to use something. As well as common sense 
AND remember that unlike a V8, our cams are getting a constant flood of splash oil from the crank. I think this is a significant plus that is often forgotten.
This will be my last post on this thread.
If anyone has not went through the thread that I linked in post #6, I would highly recommend it.
It’s much more than oil and zinc.
It’s surprising how much the consumer misunderstands. Today’s consumer is getting ripped off and suffering engine damage with so called great additives (witches brew). And, cross contamination changing to a different oil when it’s not properly done.
Need to break in an engine? It’s also covered in one of the clips.
Want to change to a different brand oil? It’s covered.
I think what’s posted in the thread that is linked in #6 will help many learn more in 4 hours than they could in a lifetime.
Another important topic, Oil Filters.
If you want to learn about oil filters.
Go to the link posted below:
There is a lot of junk filters out there. Be careful what you choose.
If anyone has not went through the thread that I linked in post #6, I would highly recommend it.
It’s much more than oil and zinc.
It’s surprising how much the consumer misunderstands. Today’s consumer is getting ripped off and suffering engine damage with so called great additives (witches brew). And, cross contamination changing to a different oil when it’s not properly done.
Need to break in an engine? It’s also covered in one of the clips.
Want to change to a different brand oil? It’s covered.
I think what’s posted in the thread that is linked in #6 will help many learn more in 4 hours than they could in a lifetime.
Another important topic, Oil Filters.
If you want to learn about oil filters.
Go to the link posted below:
There is a lot of junk filters out there. Be careful what you choose.
Last edited:
i’d think of the tq difference instead (post #5).
LOWer RPM w/HIGHer tq in i6 can mean increased stress over the bent 8 (running higher RPM)
means less oil pressure/flow then and thru out the power band (15 - 2,500 rpm) where I run almost all the time (4.1L).
LOWer RPM w/HIGHer tq in i6 can mean increased stress over the bent 8 (running higher RPM)
means less oil pressure/flow then and thru out the power band (15 - 2,500 rpm) where I run almost all the time (4.1L).
Poorly ground cams and poorly ground lifters ground on poorly dressed dirty wheels with dirty oil are the main problem.
If you had a lifter grinder you could re-grind new poorly ground flat tappet lifters 7 days a week.
Powell Machine Inc just sold it's flat tappet lifter grinder as he and his son were overwhelmed with the 7 day a week grinding of new flat tappet lifters. Powell Machine Inc has many YouTube videos on the subject. Powell Machine Inc is now only grinding roller lifter cams.
If you had a lifter grinder you could re-grind new poorly ground flat tappet lifters 7 days a week.
Powell Machine Inc just sold it's flat tappet lifter grinder as he and his son were overwhelmed with the 7 day a week grinding of new flat tappet lifters. Powell Machine Inc has many YouTube videos on the subject. Powell Machine Inc is now only grinding roller lifter cams.
Flat tappet lobe-lifter failure facts can be found at Powell Machine Inc. on YouTube
Powell Machine Inc. will soon be running 2 cam grinders.
www.youtube.com
Powell Machine Inc. will soon be running 2 cam grinders.
Powell Machine Inc
Automotive and industrial machining, camshaft grinding, Cylinder Head Porting Performance Parts and Products powellmachineinc.com
www.youtube.com
Hard to argue with physical tests. I must admit I was in the category of “ this is what we have always used, high zinc is a must”. This is a nice consolidated pice of the whole blog
.
all U want and then some (ie more than u want):
also look to the 'used oil studies' forum for different
vehicles, different mileages. I mean there’s just too
much data here. Most of it sez one thing too. It’s like the
‘need to put a can’o’lead in the tank’ after the lead was removed
from the gas in ’96. Those born prior lost a point or 2 IQ, but ppl still
thought U needed to add lead to pre-'96 vehicles or “catastrophic failure'
was eminent. I often use the diesel oil ona change (T-4, 10w-30). No harm
no foul...
BTW: just bought a casea dinosaur - juice. Almost 100$ (80 sumpin). The mana-
facturers recommend it (“conventional” or virgin) while every one else recommends the
man made & recycled (synthetic) oils. They DO rate a lill better when looking at all the properties...
Remember the small print is all ways the most important (API SN rating as seen on bottle to meet/exceed
ur owner’s manual per warrantee). Talka bout catastrophic failure ! yeah in 20, 30,000 mi, aahahahaa
also look to the 'used oil studies' forum for different
vehicles, different mileages. I mean there’s just too
much data here. Most of it sez one thing too. It’s like the
‘need to put a can’o’lead in the tank’ after the lead was removed
from the gas in ’96. Those born prior lost a point or 2 IQ, but ppl still
thought U needed to add lead to pre-'96 vehicles or “catastrophic failure'
was eminent. I often use the diesel oil ona change (T-4, 10w-30). No harm
no foul...
BTW: just bought a casea dinosaur - juice. Almost 100$ (80 sumpin). The mana-
facturers recommend it (“conventional” or virgin) while every one else recommends the
man made & recycled (synthetic) oils. They DO rate a lill better when looking at all the properties...
Remember the small print is all ways the most important (API SN rating as seen on bottle to meet/exceed
ur owner’s manual per warrantee). Talka bout catastrophic failure ! yeah in 20, 30,000 mi, aahahahaa
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