A
Anonymous
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I read in another topic about machining off the intake log on a 200 head. After you do that, how to you incorporate a bolting set-up for the new intake manifold? It looks awesome, but how do you do it?..ZZ
You have to make a plate that fixes to the newly created surface.
With the Lynx manifold, I'm looking at either 5/8 or 3/4 inch steel plate, probably welded with nickel rods. The plate will be approximately holed in advance for the intake runners, and the mountings will be drilled and tapped first. It'll need skimming to clean up after all the welding work. Plus, the intake holes will need to be matched and blended between the manifold and runners.
The other thing I have considered is the need to peen the weld runs as you go, to avoid stress build-up. All things considered, it's no picnic, but should work out OK.
Regards, Adam.
With the Lynx manifold, I'm looking at either 5/8 or 3/4 inch steel plate, probably welded with nickel rods. The plate will be approximately holed in advance for the intake runners, and the mountings will be drilled and tapped first. It'll need skimming to clean up after all the welding work. Plus, the intake holes will need to be matched and blended between the manifold and runners.
The other thing I have considered is the need to peen the weld runs as you go, to avoid stress build-up. All things considered, it's no picnic, but should work out OK.
Regards, Adam.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Okay that sounds like alot of work and welding. Now I've seen pictures of the head that is manufactured for a intake manifold installation and pictures of the intake manifold that has separate ports for each cylinder. How much do these items cost? I'm not looking for high performance, just a great running car. I wonder if this option is doable.
That's likely the famous "Aussie Head". They're around. Mike has some, Phil (Ausheads) might, too, MartÃn (Southern Cross Racer) has the Argentinian version - none are desparately cheap. You'll find the contingent costs are the killers on a thorough build-up. New timing set, cam, lifters, rebuild on the new head.
I have tried to see a way through this, and came up with a plan thus: You need a decent (running or rebuilt) bottom end no matter what. Next to change is the ignition, then the exhaust, then the timing set, then the cam and valve springs. After that point, you have to do something about the head, whether it be change or modification. But it will only be the head, carb and valves; everything else is done. This is the most practical way of spreading the costs over time.
Adam.
I have tried to see a way through this, and came up with a plan thus: You need a decent (running or rebuilt) bottom end no matter what. Next to change is the ignition, then the exhaust, then the timing set, then the cam and valve springs. After that point, you have to do something about the head, whether it be change or modification. But it will only be the head, carb and valves; everything else is done. This is the most practical way of spreading the costs over time.
Adam.
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