I've had enough... I need more power

[350kmileford]

So I have a '66 Mustang with 200 ci, and worst of all, it's an automatic. I just need a bit more power. Like 20 more horsepower at the wheels will go a long way...

(Everthing is currently stock except for a 1 into 2- 2" exhaust that the previous owner put in, still has stock exhaust manifold)

Question:

Will a bigger cam, roller rockers, and a header(s) get me at least 20 rwhp? Or, what is the cheapest (Not necessarily simplest) way to get at least 20 rwhp?

I can do all the work myself, so the only thing that needs to be taken into consideration is the cost of parts.

 

[addo]

A Transgo "shift improver" kit or Stage I shift kit, then a reground cam to dual pattern 260-something specs.

Look for a Duraspark and fit it with the recurve kit and a GM/Delco ignition module and Ford TFI coil.

For carbs, I would try a Holley 350 or Carter BBD - either with phenolic adaptor to the log if fuel economy isn't a concern.

Depending on how that all feels, you could then look at headwork like upsized exhaust valves, later.

 

[rommaster2]

a bigger cam, roller rockers, header, and duel carb should get you 20 more RWHP. If you have the head off also (well you have too to put in a new cam) maybe check around, see what it might cost to get some mods done to it at local machine shops.

Combine that with a better distributor like addo reccomended and you should have a decent enough car.

If you would like a manual, maybe plan to go to that later, 3.03s are cheap and easy to find. Or you could eventually do a t-5 swap.

Don't spend more then 4 maybe 500 modding the head though, because at that you've already spent a decent amount that could have saved up for an aluminum head, then you'd have some great results .

 

[250mav]

2bbl carb with an adapter plate would probably be the cheapest and easist thing to do. and maybe a 6into2 header for a true 2x exhaust

 

[hasa68mustang]

2bbl carb with an adapter plate would probably be the cheapest and easist thing to do. and maybe a 6into2 header for a true 2x exhaust

Thats what I was going to say, 2 fairly easy mods to start off with. is it worth 20 horse? probably not but you should at least feel a seat of the pants difference.

 

[gb500]

heres a link i posted under hardcore inline tech :

but in the 60's they were getting 110/125 rear wheel hp in a daily driver 200ci mustang( but with a lot of carb area)

for further info how AK miller did up the ford six have a look at this link :

http://www.geocities.com/hotrod_inline6/


specifically the pages 'horsin around with the mustang six'
and modifying the falcon six.

will show you in ropugh terms what each mod will give you- and all done with old 60's points and dist - so a correct DSII will be even better

brett

melbourne

 

[LaGrasta]

electronic ignition (Pertronix) alone will make you feel like you have 20 more hp. Add a two barrel and it will be a huge seat of the pants improvement.

You can do both these upgrade for less than $200 combined and in one day. Another quick fix is rearend/tire ratio.

email me at alagrasta@extron.com and I'll send you a number of PDF articles outlining general hop-up ideas including the AKMiller story mentioned. Anyone else interested is welcome too.

 

[350kmileford]

I am trying to do this for as cheap as humanly possible. I have big plans (who doesn't) of swapping in a t-5 within the next year, and then the aluminum head after that.

I forgot to mention that it already has the 1st gen Pertronix.


And a 2 barrel carb for under 200 bucks? I would like to see that figure justified.

 

[CoupeBoy]

Oh, that's too easy
Tom Langdon's Stovebolt Engine Co
Holley Weber carb $65
To adapt it to the engine you can buy his adapter for $15, or you can hit one of the other vendors for their adapters. You could also take your head off, have it modified for direct fit 2bbl (you probably still need an adapter to turn the carb 90°, and you might not be able to do this depending on your intake log type) while you have the head off, measure your pistons, how far down the piston is from the top (flat part) of the block, buy a headgasket (ask people on here if they know the compressed thickness) and have your head shaved to bump your compression to around 9.0:1-9.2:1 Last time I had a head shaved it cost $40 for hot tanking the head and checking for cracks, and another $40 for 'surfacing' the head the desired amount.


Another issue you will run into is if you upgrade your carb you will need to do something about your distributor, I'm guessing you have the original Load-o-matic? You have a couple options. Find a newer '68+ 200 distributor that has normal vacuum and mechanical advance and pray that your petronix works. Or upgrade to a Duraspark II as described by Addo above. Both will work with intake vacuum.

Aside from the downtime that should provide you with a fairly cheap power boost. Especially if you go direct mount.

-ron

 

[250mav]

im using th 2bbl set up mentenioned above also. $60 carb, $15 adapter plate, few nuts and bolts, inline fule filter. without the cost of a aircleaner i could probably keep it under $100.

 

[addo]

CCC

1. CAM
2. CARBS
3. COMPRESSION

The old rule of thumb is still pretty valid. I only brought in the driveline and ignition because they dovetail nicely at intermediate stages. And while we've unresolved issues with some new cams, I will advocate a regrind almost every time.

Also I mentioned the Carter BBD because it seems less loved than the Holley (and therefore may be cheaper), but pretty dependable.

 

[gtm1086]

I will sell you a webber and adapter for $100.00

 

[CrashBob]

I will sell you a webber and adapter for $100.00

If nobody else wants that carb/adapter, I would take it. Pix??
PM me with details please.

CrashBob, wannabe mechanic

 

[Patrick66]

port divider is supposed to be good for 10-15% more hp, i they only cost about $15 but youll have to take it to a machine shop to have it put in.

im using th 2bbl set up mentenioned above also. $60 carb, $15 adapter plate, few nuts and bolts, inline fule filter. without the cost of a aircleaner i could probably keep it under $100.

will the linkage i have work? and wouldnt i have to replace my distributer? i was gonna upgrade to duraspark 2 anyways.

 

[LaGrasta]

Patrick, the port divider isn't going to give you 10-15% more hp. There has never been anyone who installed one that used a dyno to prove that. In fact, just the opposite. Most people that put them in end up saying it didn't do anything except come loose and have to be taken back out.

 

[Patrick66]

Patrick, the port divider isn't going to give you 10-15% more hp. There has never been anyone who installed one that used a dyno to prove that. In fact, just the opposite. Most people that put them in end up saying it didn't do anything except come loose and have to be taken back out.

didnt think those numbers could be right, i cant remember where i read that. still i think the port divider has to be a good idea, im putting one in when i get my headers.

 

[250mav]

im using th 2bbl set up mentenioned above also. $60 carb, $15 adapter plate, few nuts and bolts, inline fule filter. without the cost of a aircleaner i could probably keep it under $100.

will the linkage i have work? and wouldnt i have to replace my distributer? i was gonna upgrade to duraspark 2 anyways.

i think mustangs and falcons used a diffrent linkage but the maverick throttle cable was an exact fit. its a cable with the return spring built right into the tip. go strip one of a maverick of something in a junkyard. shouldnt be more then a few bucks. the cable, bracket, and i think the peddle.





-doesnt $100 sound s little much for that carb and adapter?
a rebuilt carb is $65 and the plate is like $15 = $80. my used set up was only $50

 

[Bort62]

still i think the port divider has to be a good idea

Why? Because someone sells it and tells you so?

 

[Patrick66]

still i think the port divider has to be a good idea

Why? Because someone sells it and tells you so?

first off i think that it would probably help with flow by keeping the exhaust gasses from #3 and #4 from colliding in the port that they for some reason share.

also it will keep the gases moving at a higher velocity, making more torque. maybe we should ask someone who specializes in heads which makes more sense, 1 port for 2 cylinders or 2 ports.

i read an article in honda tuning (dont hate, my dad bought it because he has a civic). the article was about heads and headwork. Larry Widmer (who has worked for Ford, Toyota, Roger Penske, General Dynamics, MSD, and Lockheed Martin, and has built engines that won an indy 500, numerous nascar races, and multiple pro stock titles), said this:
"I say, if I can make an exhaust port flow big and not do it by making the port really big, because velocity is so important to torque, we can run a lot less cam timing and lift"

the important part there is "velocity is so important to torque", and i dont think that big siamese port makes for high velocity. so i think that if you get a divider properly installed and have everything smoothed out, youll probably see a noticable increase in torque (which is whats really important) and probably horse power.

by the way, im getting dual out headers, so i have to have a port divider anyways.

 

[Patrick66]

still i think the port divider has to be a good idea

Why? Because someone sells it and tells you so?

and yes because someone tells me so.
if theres someone who has experience and knowledge im gonna listen. i wont blindly accept everything i hear, but like i said, i think the divider makes sense