Kelly goes 12.84@105 in the '63 TurboFalcon at FFW Phoenix!

Alex,
No we don't have them. And yes I know about the different floats for the extensions. In my way of thinking I didn't think extensions would help. Unless I could bend them to the rear of the car. Which you can't do. At least not on the ones I've seen.
So the circle track float seems to have fixed the problem. We're going to to some testing on Dec. 4th in Tucson at a track rental so we'll learn some more about how to tune this thing.
I didn't mention earlier that I have to pull the tranny... AGAIN!!!! For some reason the flexplate to crankshaft bolts keep coming loose and we're tearing up flexplates. I think this will be the 4th flexplate we've put in the thing! Loctite is just not holding up. I might just do a quick tack weld on each bolt to hold it in place.
Will
 
Before you weld that thing up is there any way you could get or make bolts that could use safety wire? That should prevent them from working out of their holes.

-ron
 
Saftey wire is a good fix, but you may want to try new bolts first. Just like head bolts, you can only torque them so many times before they lose their elasticity. At that point you can tighten them, but they will eventually stretch and loosen. The ARP bolts for the SBF are good. Follow their torque specs.

Sixes are notorious for harmonics, so you need to use a bolt that fully engages the entire threaded portion of the crank.
 
This was the problem a fellow here had some years ago, running a GM 173 in a wagon. He was in the 13s NA but ended up bailing on the motor because of the same issue - flywheel bolts coming loose. A wobbly trans at high RPM frightens me all right.

When Loctite fails, is it residually sticky? Ford used something that resembles Permatex #3, ex-factory. This is tacky at all times. Maybe food for thought?

Adam.
 
Fellas,

Just reading on the thread and wanted to share this: A product made by "Hercules" chemical called "Blue-Bloc". (Stock no: 15-711 from www.herchem.com) It is available at many commercial/industrial plumbing supply stores. It is sold as a thread sealent for pipe connections and gaskets... (I also assemble engine gaskets with the stuff.) It is not marketed as a thread locking compound; however, it exceeds military specifications as a thread locker. Similar to the "Permatex" product mentioned above, it stays malleable instead of getting brittle. It does unfortunately require a couple days to cure completely. We stumbled upon the stuff through an engineering website while attempting to solve a problem similar to yours on 100hp electric motor shaft couplings. No more trouble reported, and that was last year. Combine that with the safety-wire suggestion and new bolts... (Overkill is great insurance!)

Best wishes!

Fabricator
 
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