larger radiator for 200?

kirkallen143

Famous Member
Is there a larger radiator available for the 200, and can you use a V8 crossflow core instead of the vertical flow core.

Thanks in advance,

Kirk Allen Jorden ' 73 bronco
 
I have a cross flow radiater from a Chevy S10 in my 62 Falcon. I have also put a cross flow from a Fox Mustang in a 65 Ranchero. In both cases the battery had to be relocated.
In the 62 the battery moved to the drivers side (this was done to clear air conditioning compresser). In the 65, I simply rotated the battery (90 degrees) in it's stock location.

The S10 radiater is about two inches lower (16" hi x 30: wide) than the Mustang radiater (18" hi x 30" wide) so it will fit below the hood prop rod on round body Falcons. Both have inlet and outlet flanges in the right location. This swap can be done pretty cleanly but it is not a swap for those concerned with stock apearence. However, it does allow for the possibility of a larger radiator.

Your sig tells of a Bronco. Is that the car you want to change too? If so, I don't know how much room you have. Bottom line is, get out a tape measure, take careful measurements and head to the wreckers and watch out for hose diameters.

Mike A
 
I've installed BIG aluminum crossflow radiators in both of my 62 wagons. I also moved the battery to the driver's side to clear the A/C unit in both cars. Here's a link the radiator page about the delux wagon: Big Radiator
Looking at the page now, I can see it needs to be updated a bit. I'll post some new(er) pics and spruce up that page a little tonight, or maybe tomorrow night. I used 190* thermostats and I haven't seen anything above 195* since. Both cars have T5 conversions, so this may also keep them a little cooler when in heavy traffic.
The major things I did:
I bought two big aluminum twin core crossflow radiators. I think they were probably made for old '63-'64 390/427 galaxys with header tanks, no filler cap.
I cut away about three inches on each side of the original radiator opening for them to fit.
I rebuilt the bottom of both front radiator supports and cut big notches out of the front end of the frame rails for the tanks. The delux's rad support was originally mashed/damaged, but the repair turned out so well, I cut out the squire's original stamped support beam and copied what I had done to the delux. This mod gave me TWO extra inches of space for the (much larger) fan, as I set the radiators on top of the support beam instead of behind it. In fact I ended up using fan spacers off of a fairmont to get the fans up close to the radiator! There is a GOOD airflow path behind the fan now. I guess I could have used a granada or fairmont long-nose water pump and double pulley and saved myself the trouble of scrounging up the spacers and having a custom short nose double pulley made, but I just now thought of that (and the pulley looks very cool).
I trimmed and rolled the rear edge of the bumper filler/stone gaurds to keep them from blocking airflow to the bottom half of the radiators.
On the squire, I added a small air dam to direct air up into the radiator, behind the bumper. Probably not needed, but i was in a sheetmetal mood.
I also used press-on rubber windlace to cover the edges of all the exposed sheetmetal.
Since niether one of the radiators had filler caps, I used inline fillers in the top hose. Depending on where you get your radiator you can pick and choose where the filler cap goes. If you mount the radiator like mine (on top of the support) but don't want to use an inline filler, you'll need an "elbow pipe" filler to come off the back of one of the tanks.
The hoses! I bent some brazing rods to match the length and path of the top and bottom hoses and headed off to the parts store. I asked if I could "browse" through the hoses to find what I needed. No problem, although on the squire (the most recent conversion), after about fifteen minutes, I said to heck with finding the right molded hose and used a flex universal on the bottom. I suppose I could have gotten fancy and used those BeCool "cut to fit" hoses, but I was running low on beer money. Now that I'm thinking about it, I probably should have written down the part numbers on those hoses...
Rick(wrench)
 
Rickwrench,
Nice work on the radiator install. It sure would be nice to be able to use a long nose water pump. My 200 had air when it was in the 80 Mustang so it had a double pulley on the crank and a mount for the AC compressor. The trick was the double short water pump pulley that would mate with the bottom pulley. I had a WP pulley from a 70's Maverick (I think). The 80 harmonic balancer pully is a larger diameter and rubbed on the waterpump pulley. I wound up grinding both pulleys a bit to make clearance.

Does your site have pics of the AC install? I would like to check them out.
Mike A
 
Been having a little trouble posting this reply, maybe 3rd time will be the charm (or three posts will appear).
I ran into the same problem with the damper and h2o pulley. When the squire's engine was out for the T5 swap, I replaced (among other things) the old damper as it was grooved on the seal surface and leaking a little oil. The new damper was, of course, bigger, and interfered with the h2o pump pulley. I swapped a later long nose pump in and cut down a universal aluminum fan that had the mounting face in front of the plane of the blades. I ended up with a tiny bit less than an 1/8th of an inch clearance between the fan and the original 3 core radiator. Turns out a little less than an 1/8th of an inch is almost enough room (but not quite). The old short double pulley I had (before it's unfortunate fate) actually did fit with the late damper.
Ford's pulley and h2o pump department must have been extremely bored in the late 60s and 70s. There are, what, ten (twelve?) different h2o pumps for the 302 block. All just different enough to ruin your day. Thank god they mostly ignored the US 200 block, just one pulley ratio change that I know of, and "only" four or five h2o pumps. The smaller diameter custom double pulley I used looks cool, so I'll just use it and the short pump with a fan spacer. The ratio is a little higher than stock, so the h2o pump gets spun a little faster as well.
I'll try to post some A/C pics shortly. The delux's A/C system is a bone stock R12 early mustang underdash system with a york compressor, so nothing new or interesting there. The only thing not stock is the way the condenser is mounted in front of the big radiator on two 1/2 inch angle iron supports. The squire originally had an ugly ward's underdash unit and noisy old york compressor mounted on a 60s aftermarket Mapco compressor plate mount. This plate thing must wiegh twenty-five lbs by itself and uses the front head bolt for support. Anybody want it? It'll just cost you shipping. The old pos york got scrapped and I sold the ugly ward's unit for a LOT more than it was worth.
The new squire system uses a brand spankin sanden five-oh-something-something compressor (it's in the garage and I'm at work), and very nice restored OEM underdash unit (which I do have a PIC of) that is just missing the spit screen behind the vents. This will be a 134a system. I haven't ordered the condenser yet but you can get any size you want to match your compressor rating and radiator dimensions. New drier and hoses, too.
After I'm done with this last A/C project, I may even have time to work on the alfa again...
Rick(wrench)
 
This plate thing must wiegh twenty-five lbs by itself and uses the front head bolt for support. Anybody want it? It'll just cost you shipping. The old pos york got scrapped and I sold the ugly ward's unit for a LOT more than it was worth.

Keep it. Place a modern axail flow a/c compressor from a 302 on the bottom right below the generator, and attach a Paxton super charger on it. Your US sixes are made for supercharging :twisted:


(pLease DiRegard thiS, its just that in Aussie, the York a.c compressor was markeded as Selectair, and it weighes a ton. The modern Crossflow sixes after 1984 got a neat, efficent a/c compressor which mounted off the alternator backet, very very simple, very light, and you never saw it. Someone ealier this year posted theres, and I took those photos and used them as a template for a supercharger mount. Seams to me the York compressor would consume about the same as driving a super charger and it has all the belts attached as a factory clutched item. The Toyota SC12 supercharger, used in some MR2's, were smaller than the York unit!)

I'd love to see you shut down a 5.0 in your supercharged six!
 
I put an oversized "Big End" aluminum 2 row racing radiator in my 63 Comet. It was very complicated - much more involved than I had first imagined. Maybe some of my saga may help you, otherwise just consider it a chance to vent!

1. The larger radiator was not only 1/2 inch thicker but sat back about 1/2 inch from the rad support (otherwise I would have had to cut out several inches of the support).
2. No integrated tranny cooler - so put auxillary tranny coooler in.
3. Loss of clearance between engine and radiator so electric pusher fan added and mechanical fan removed.
4. Big radiator required repositioning of the horns.
5. New radiator had no stopcock, so a "T" fitting was made in the rad hose between the engine and inlet to place an electric thermostat switch.
6. Brackets and supports had to be fabricated.
7. Temp sensor activates at 200 and turns off at 175, so thermostat changed from 180 to 160 (otherwise the fan ran endlessly....)
8. Sheet metal panel made to seal the gap between the rad and the rad support (1 inch of space that air could travel)

However after all this, with thanks to you guys on the forum, I am going to be COOL at Hot August Nights in Reno this summer!!!!

Marc in SF
63 Comet Custom Convertible
http://mercurycomet.net
 
Finished install of the 1 core S10 rad last week. My overheating and clearance problems are solved. The electric fan has yet to engage as long as I am moving, even with the A/C on.

A public THANKS!!! to all who helped.

Don
 
yeah my problem is that I put in a huge 3 row AL unit and now it over cools my car big time. I have done a 195 t-stat and it only gets to 160 on the gauge (electric autometer mounted in the stock location on back of head) in teh winter and sub 50* weather it can barely make it to that if I am on the highway. in summer I only have problems in 95+ weather in town (no fan what so ever)

nick
 
Nick,
A properly working thermostat should not let your temps fall below the stated temp range after warm up. Since a thermostat is essentially a valve that restricts coolant flow at temps below a certain pre set temp, it should work with a Mack truck radiator attached. Regardless of size, the radiator can't cool anything unless the thermostat first releases coolant flow into it's core. I would check your gauge to insure that it is reading properly.
Mike A
 
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