Log chopping revisited
- Thread starter rickwrench
- Start date
i am waiting to get my order from Al for my tranny stuff but he is also sending me a head he already chopped the log off of. my wifes cousin and i are gonna set some space aside in his race shop and see what we can do.
ideas are
3 one barrel carbs but he and i both say it is to easy and we want something a little harder.
so that leaves us with fuel injection. i have started ordering parts for the build it yourself (i like that kind of stuff) and he is looking into possible fits for exsisting manifolds, also 3 throttle bodies run like the 3 single carbs, or runners that go to one huge honking log with a single throttle body in front of it (my four cylinder seems to like the last one pretty good.)
mind you though that all of this is in the planning and brain storming stages while we wait for the head to get in.
ideas are
3 one barrel carbs but he and i both say it is to easy and we want something a little harder.
so that leaves us with fuel injection. i have started ordering parts for the build it yourself (i like that kind of stuff) and he is looking into possible fits for exsisting manifolds, also 3 throttle bodies run like the 3 single carbs, or runners that go to one huge honking log with a single throttle body in front of it (my four cylinder seems to like the last one pretty good.)
mind you though that all of this is in the planning and brain storming stages while we wait for the head to get in.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Ok here's one for ya.If I were to chop the log off of my 200 could I ,or any of you,fabricate mounting plates,tap holes for bolts and use an oz 250 intake on the chopped 200 head?Anyone if the intake port configuration is the same?If not could the intake ports be widened out on one site and ported an polished to make them managable to line up with the oz 250 intake?If not then to hell with it and I'll chop that mother lover and fabricate a custom intake for it ane drill bolt holes and make mounting plates so Ican make lots of custom intakes and have a blast!!!
A
Anonymous
Guest
No turning back.My 200 head went under the knife,I guess you could say,lastnight.This will take me a few days though.All Ihave to work with is an air grinder with about a half dozen cutting discs,a power drill and some tired hands lol.Taking the log off.My dad knows a guy that does exhaust systems who is a good friend,And he has a pipe bender which will come in handy when I fab the intake for it.I think I'll make a 2bbl intake and a 3-1bbl intake and see what I can get out of them.Anyone have any ideas?I'll try to get my plans scaned and show em to you guys to see what you think.
i am not sure about the aussie heads but i am wondering which will be the best method to attach the plate to the head, my wifes cousin said bolting it on and i kind of think oven brazing it would be the best idea.
so the question is what do you guys think would be the best way to do it and why.
dan
so the question is what do you guys think would be the best way to do it and why.
dan
A
Anonymous
Guest
I have a mig welder and I was kind of thinking about cutting custom mounting plates with a hole for each intake and 2 bolt holes for the manifold and then welding them on so that I can bolt the intake onto them as if it were factory.Although it wouldn't look factory but hey if it breathes better who gives a rats......you get the idea 
Dan, you're right, furnace brazing would do the job nicely. It'll tickle your wallet well, too.
If you can tack - maybe drill and tap some small fasteners - your accurately made plate to your accurately milled surface (two critical issues ), then a hand-held propane torch should do well enough. Braze it in sections, to avoid heat distortion.
Cheers, Adam.
If you can tack - maybe drill and tap some small fasteners - your accurately made plate to your accurately milled surface (two critical issues
), then a hand-held propane torch should do well enough. Braze it in sections, to avoid heat distortion. Cheers, Adam.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Guys,a 250 head would bolt on and work with a 170 block if the head were milled down for the correct compression ratio right?
A
Anonymous
Guest
How about 6 motorcycle carbs. Ak Miller used them 30 odd years ago to liven up the Ford 6. They usually have a main jet and needle arrangement with a fair bit of adjustment. They also don't need heat risers to work in the cold, they are usually rubber mounted to the inlet on a bike. 4 cylinder bike carbs usually have 26 to 32mm butterflies. Plenty for a car motor.
Individual and small (6 plates) alloy plate 8mm thick could be cut with a bandsaw and hole saw and tapped and threaded to each individual inlet port. They are very light and could be attached with 2 x 1/4 bolts for each port. The small bolts will help if there isn't much metal around.
Bikes are usually 4 cylinder and have 4 carbs so the linkages could be lengthened to incorporate the 2 extra carbs and still use the single idle speed screw. They always have a fuel rail which joins each individual float bowl. Individual air cleaners are available for bike carbs at reasonable prices, finer filter, K&N.
Only real problem is a vacum port for your brakes. You could go to 12mm plate and tap and thread hose fittings to add up all your vacum for the brake booster.
For the tech heads, Kawasaki made a fule injected GPZ 1100 and the turbo 750 was injected too. These throtlle bodies have provision for an injector. I had an 1100, the top end was no better than a carbed bike but it had more torque through the rev range.
I would avoid using a single plate for exhuast and inlet, too much heat transfer into the inlet.
Dom
Individual and small (6 plates) alloy plate 8mm thick could be cut with a bandsaw and hole saw and tapped and threaded to each individual inlet port. They are very light and could be attached with 2 x 1/4 bolts for each port. The small bolts will help if there isn't much metal around.
Bikes are usually 4 cylinder and have 4 carbs so the linkages could be lengthened to incorporate the 2 extra carbs and still use the single idle speed screw. They always have a fuel rail which joins each individual float bowl. Individual air cleaners are available for bike carbs at reasonable prices, finer filter, K&N.
Only real problem is a vacum port for your brakes. You could go to 12mm plate and tap and thread hose fittings to add up all your vacum for the brake booster.
For the tech heads, Kawasaki made a fule injected GPZ 1100 and the turbo 750 was injected too. These throtlle bodies have provision for an injector. I had an 1100, the top end was no better than a carbed bike but it had more torque through the rev range.
I would avoid using a single plate for exhuast and inlet, too much heat transfer into the inlet.
Dom
A
Anonymous
Guest
Here we go.Still working on and off getting this all set up.I think I have ADD cause I'll work on my engine,then I'll do something to the body,then I'll work on the head,then I'll work on the Jeep.Ah oh well.Here's the head so far.Still need to mount the plates on the intake tubing I made on the head.
A
Anonymous
Guest
66200i6":m7qo4lqh said:
Hey, Rick,
I can provide you with the "equipment to make it so"
BTW, are there any machine shops you can recommend around here for engine rebuilding? I talked to Highland East machine shop today about rebuilding my '65 200 if I brought it in disassembled - general quote was in the $1300 range for just labor, as appossed to pacific machine in renton - their comment last summer when I was there was "could be a couple of grand" 
Thor
A
Anonymous
Guest
Addo,it'll clear the shock tower.I have a master plan as to how I am going to build the intake manifilds.Yes manifolds being plural lol.Gonna run 3 1bbl carbs divided up 1 to run Cyl 1 an 2,1 to run 3 an 4 and 1 to run 5 an six.No progressive linkage but hey,least she won't need an inhaler like it used to.
A
Anonymous
Guest
anyone ever done anything like this?Another log chopping idea.Setting it up like 3 intakes.1 to run cyls 1 an 2....1 to run 3 an 4....an 1 to rin 5 an 6....This idea is to make the carbs sit to where the air cleaners will be right outside the hood.Would look like 3 deuces lol would be like the front carb..the second one about an inch an a half higher and the third one about an inch an a half higher than that one.
rickwrench
Famous Member
Now you're cooking with fire.
This is what I had in mind.
3 weber IDAs, a few pieces of curved tube, and a flat plate.
Rick(wrench)
This is what I had in mind.
3 weber IDAs, a few pieces of curved tube, and a flat plate.
Rick(wrench)
66200i6
Famous Member
Thanks for the offer Thor.
I have found a shop through recommendations, Stuart Machine Service (downtown Renton). This shop works by time only because all of his work is custom. I have talked with the owner there and they would be happy to use a Honing/Torque Plate I provide when performing the boring.
I am still working to have a Honing/Torque Plate made for this block. This work will be done as kind of a favor so it may take some time. But I am willing to wait, I'm not going to have all of the work done and have number 1 and 6 cylinders deform after assembly.
We'll just keep on try'n, Ric.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Dom;
Check with Jack. He's doing the bike carb thing now.
Check with Jack. He's doing the bike carb thing now.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Rick,thats a great idea too.See I was tryin to keep the carbs lined up in the middle of the hood though.I don't like the idea of them being offset to one side.
Just a reminder for these chopped manifold heads - when I called Lynx a couple of months ago, they still had about 8 or 10 each of both the side-draft triple SU carb intakes and the triple Weber two-barrel intakes. These would be another option to fabbing your own intake.
Lotta creativity going on here, though. Kinky6.
Lotta creativity going on here, though. Kinky6.
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