Machine early block for late distributor

[mike_main]

Hi,
I just signed up today for this forum and I am impressed by all the knowledge and the willingness to share with total strangers. You're all the best.

I have a '64 Falcon Futura early 170/Fordo that I want to update with new stock ignition, a Duraspark II that I already have. Yes, I know the hole in the block is too small, and the 5/16 drive/pump issue. I want to machine my block to accept the late distributor/5/16 drive & pump. Has anybody done this before? If not, I'm willing to be the Canary. Can anybody tell me the diameter of the hole in the block for the early distributor & late distributor? Any help would be appreciated.

mike...in Los Angeles

'64 Falcon Futura Hardtop 170/Fordo
'65 Falcon Ranchero 289/C4

 

[Asa]

honestly, it might be cheaper to get a later block, but what would be even easier would be machining the distributor, there's plenty of posts on that, but i don't think any have really gone to machining the block

 

[falcon fanatic]

That seems like some good advice. The best solution for measurements would be to take the car and the dizzy to the machinist and let him to the measurements. Of course, that would involve pulling yor dizzy at the machine shop :roll:

 

[mike_main]

HI,
I am a retired aerospace machinist...just need dimensions so I can see what needs to be done. Thanks for your reply.

mike...in Los Angeles

'64 Falcon Futura 170/Fordo
'65 Falcon Ranchero 289/C4

 

[Lazy JW]

..... want to update with new stock ignition, a Duraspark II that I already have.......

Ummmm....... since you already have the DS2 it seems as though you could just measure it and start machining
Joe

 

[Does10s]

Mike,
I can measure a few 250 dizzy holes for ya when I get home!
Later,
Will

 

[rbohm]

8) measure the distributor shaft you have, and give yourself something like .001" clearance or so, or rather than machine the block you can turn the lower part of the distributor shaft down to fit the block.

 

[MustangSix]

It's easier to turn the distributor shaft down than to open the block up. Just machine the last inch or so where it engages the block and oil pump drive, then use a later driveshaft and pump to match.

 

[mike_main]

Thanks to all for the idea of machining the distributor shaft, but I'll be machining the block. Hopefully, someone can tell me the stock dimension in the late block. I'll take it from there.

mike...in Los Angeles

 

[jamyers]

If you want to machine the block, then do like rbohm suggested, just the other way around:

8) measure the distributor shaft you have, and give yourself something like .001" clearance or so....

Should be pretty straightforward as at least a starting point, and with the distributor in hand you or your machinist can cut it to fit however you want. (I doubt that the original Ford guys were all that precise, and would lay money that 10 blocks will have 10 different sized holes).

 

[Asa]

may i ask why you're so adamant about machining the block?
just curious

 

[mike_main]

Q: Adamant about machining block-why?
A: Really, it's just that the early distributors are not what I want to deal with. The later model stockers are so far superior & modifiable (recurve), and downright cheap at my local recycler, and any carb can work. Also, with the dead diaphram that's in there now, the engine labors as rpm's rise, manifold vacum drops, and the trans likes to stay in low forever. Anyway, the machining process won't be complex and I'll do it myself in just a few minutes. Really only need to know the diameter of the later hole so that my tool & cutter grinder buddy can whip me up a piloted reamer and I'll take it from there.

mike...in Los Angeles

 

[Asa]

so it's more about the fact that you have the tools to machine the block, but not the distributor?

i can understand that

 

[mike_main]

RE: "...so it's more about the fact that you have the tools to machine the block, but not the distributor?"

A: No, not really. I need to have the piloted reamer made by a friend. But it would be a simple matter of sticking the shaft in a lathe and knocking about .062" off the lower portion diameter and then it would "fit". But the shaft cross section over the enlarged 5/16" drive becomes very thin walled, and I don't have confidence that the lower end of the remachined distributor would hold up for very long when driving a stock pump, let alone one that's modified for higher pressure/flow. So I want to do away with the worry, etc and just make the early block the same as the late block when I know what the dimension needs to be. Lacking any feedback from someone who actually measures one and shares the info, I will take a stab in the dark and machine to my shaft size +.003" or so and let it go at that. But the stock distributor that I've got might not be nominal in size, and I could end up not being as intended, that is to fit all late models given normal production tolereances.

mike...in Los Angeles

 

[Anonymous]

Mike, you know what you are doing, so ream out the block.
I can't help you with the block pilot dimension.
Once the block is done then you can use any late model distributor.
If you didn't have any machinist knowledge that would be a different story.
Go for the block & get it up dated for the later distributors. Outlaw

 

[Asa]

No one is questioning your ability to do it, only why you want to do it, as it seems counter-productive to the majority of people here.
But then again, maybe your right and it will be too thin, as far as i know no one has actually machined one of the DSII distributors.
Myself, I'd be inclined to go to a junkyard and pull one, then cut it in two and measure the thickness, before I started on all this.

 

[mike_main]

Re: "...myself, i'd be inclined to go to a junkyard and pull one, then cut it in two and measure the thickness..."

A: Really don't have to cut anything. I've measured the bottom diameter of my early distributor and it is .450". The end of the late distributor is .512" so .062" would need to come off, or .032" on a side. If I measure the corner edge (the narrowest part of the hex) of the 1/4" hex drive on the early distributor to the outside (.450" O.D.) it is .083". If I measure the same dimension on the late distributor, it is the same. So, 0.083"-0.032"=0.050" wall remaining
if machining the late distributor to fit the early block, and I think it will be prone to cracking in the corner when under stress (reduces wall thickness by more that 1/3). So I don't want to go that route. That's my reason for not taking the easy way out...that's all. Or buying a $300-$400 aftermarket distributor for the early block.

 

[Lazy JW]

Actually, boring the block is probably the better long-term solution; it just happens to be out of reach for the majority of we mortals. Oh, to have a buddy that would grind chambering reamers for free..........
Joe

 

[jamyers]

Aha, I see. Surely somebody on here has a block laying around?

 

[mike_main]

Re: "...Oh, to have a buddy that would grind chambering reamers for free..."

A: Actually, in the industry, side/home jobs are affectionately known as 'G Jobs" and tend to bring people out from under their rocks. You can get the very best of their talent (that hasn't been beat out of them by some employers doing it the old way versus doing things with inovation). They love this stuff. All they ever want to know is how did what they gave you work out. I believe that a case of beer given in the right place can move the Earth! And yes, there were many personal chambering reamers ground in the wee hours.

mike...in Los Angeles