Major Pertroix Woes

[weeds]

Running compression test? Never done one.

As to the numbers, last comp test I did, the numbers were above 160.

 

[Anonymous]

The running compression Test is something the racers use to determine dynamicly what is happening in the engine. Typically the compression numbers will be 45 to 50% of a static compression test because the valves are opening and closing. I have a static of 133, and all cyls are well within 10%. However, a static test will not give you the info a dynamic test would, such as my example of a valve that is just a little too tight. The engine will run great when cold, but as it warms up, and the metal expands, then the problem becomes apparent, because now the valves don't close al the way. I wish I could take credit for this idea, but my neighbor, who races migets (which are mostly powered by the Cosworth/Ford 4 cyl) helped me. I will do the valve lash adjustment this week as time allows. I will also check the pushrods. The hydrolic lifters should have compensated for the tightness unless it was already close to it's max.
I will let ya know how it goes.

Bill

 

[Anonymous]

I have adjusted the "tight" valves. I don't think thay were bad enough to make the car run as poorly as it has been. I ordered a Pony Carb. I explained the situation, and they claim thier carb will make a world of difference. After all I have done to this car my opinion is "we will see". Anyway, I should have the carb by tomorrow. I will let you guys know how it goes.


Bill

 

[Anonymous]

The 1100 was also used with the dual advance distributors (not to be confused w/dual vacuum dist.) from '68-70, which is about when they quit using the 1100 carb. The 2 were originally matched together. So, there shouldn't be a problem running them together - that's how Ford did it. The only difference I can see is after the Loadomatic's demise, Ford didn't use the spark control valve on the 1100 anymore. From the pics. I've seen, it looks like the scv was plugged and the ported vacuum from the carb. used. (and for cars that had the dual vacuum distributor, ported vacuum and manifold vac. were used.) Again, this is only what I can make out in the pictures I've seen.

Steve or whoever else can help,

About this resistance wire. What color is it? How can I identify it? Does it connect to the ignition switch? Once found, do you just cut it out and run a new wire from the ign. switch through the firewall to the coil? What size wire are you supposed to run in its place?

 

[Anonymous]

Falcon64,

You are absolutely correct about the spark control, and ported vacuun source is plugged on the 68 carbs. They also have a larger venturi as well, so they flow more. As far as the resister wire is concerned, the colors are different for different years. On your Falcon, the wire would be pink, or green with a red stripe. If your Falcon is the same as my Mustang, there will be a bullet conector just priot to the switch. you can pull this connector of, and solder a wire on the male end of the connector. then re-connect the bullet connector. this will give you your 6v source to the coil if you wish, and then run your new wire directly to the pertronix. If you go with a 12v coil, you can run the new wire, and connect it to both the coil, and pertronix, and snip, and tape orig wire. As far as gauge, I ran 18 ga.
Hope this helps.

Bill

 

[Anonymous]

You are absolutely correct about the spark control, and ported vacuun source is plugged on the 68 carbs. They also have a larger venturi as well, so they flow more.

I don't think that the ported vacuum was plugged, just the spark control valve was.

The later ('68-69) 1100s actually flowed less than the earlier ones. The venturi is smaller, not larger. I think Pony Carbs. can explain it better than me:

"The big difference is the cfm. (That’s cubic feet per minute of air flow) in 1968 ford put a 170 cu inch size carburetor on a 200. if you’ve ever looked at the engine specifications - in 1968 the 200 is rated at 115 hp vs. 120 hp for 1967 and older engines. The 115 hp rating is generous; it’s more like 105 hp. By changing the venturi inside the carburetor to the larger (67 and older) size we can substantially increase your performance. The difference in the standing quarter mile is 6mph. (64 mph vs. 70mph)"

Thanks for the info. on the resistance wire!

 

[Anonymous]

I have to change the name of the topic, because this clearly is no longer a Pertronix issue. Slade, Steve, and Falcon64 were all correct in stating that I could be dealing with more than one issue. I have several things that need to be corrected.

1. Incorrect Spacer- The spacer on the car now is for a 70's era carb, and has no vacuum cannel for the Heat Tube. I need to put correct carb spacer on.

2. No Heat Tube

3. Run Heater hoses through new spacer.

4. Remove fuel tank, clean out, and replace tank prefilter. Old carb had almost 1/8" of sediment in bowl. (I think this is the biggest problem)

I wil let ya all know how it pans out.

Bill

P.S.
I spoke on the phone with Pony carbs. Ford originally had a smaller venturi in the 68 carbs, but this one has been re-engineered. It has the same size venturi as the 65-67 1100's.

 

[Anonymous]

Maybe I am missing something here and you guys have ruled out the obvious... but here's my 1.5cents?

Have you tried replacing the coil?... Seems to be pretty classic symptoms for a failing coil.... Sparks fine till it gets hot then start missing sparks and dies... When it cools off its good to go again...

 

[Anonymous]

Thanx for the idea, but I have tried three different coils. The original, the Flamethrower II, and a new 12v from Autozone. All had same result.


Thanx,
Bill