Manual boost controller

matt1967

Famous Member
How would I use a manual boost controller on a turbo with an integral wastegate? I get how they work, holding off preassure to the waste gate so u can make more boost, and they seem like a cheap way to get a little more, but how do I mount 1 in? when I get the turbo in my car of course. stock Buick GN turbo.
 
matt1967":1bc1dt0t said:
also should I get a vac/boost gauge or just a boost gauge?

They are the same thing.

About the boost controller, they plumb inline with the wastegate.

I'm not trying to be offensive here, but making a turbo system is a lot of work and you might need more detailed information than a forum can give you. Few of us here have actually built a turbo system on a Ford 6.

Take a look at Maximum Boost by Corky Bell or Turbochargers by Hugh MacInnes. They're both a little out of date but offer good theory that is still applicable.

Also, go to http://www.turbomustangs.com and read the junkyard/DIY stickies. Those guys have a lot of turbo experience (but can get nasty if you don't use the search function). We're a lot nicer over here, but may not know what you ask.
 
thanks for the link. I'll see about getting those books. I think I can make it work now that I know to boost refrence the fuel pump, still havn't got the turbo. from the turbo mustangs site, just searching for info on GN turbo's, I found that there integral wastegates are set at 14 PSI, which is kind of good I guess, I was hoping they only made 6-8 PSI that way I could have more adjustability with a boost controller, a minimum of 14 psi is good I guess. also found out there T3's with super 60 trim. I think I'm going to get a junkyard 1bbl that will fit and modify/ rebuild it for the turbo.
 
matt1967":3m9kp5z4 said:
thanks for the link. I'll see about getting those books. I think I can make it work now that I know to boost refrence the fuel pump, still havn't got the turbo. from the turbo mustangs site, just searching for info on GN turbo's, I found that there integral wastegates are set at 14 PSI, which is kind of good I guess, I was hoping they only made 6-8 PSI that way I could have more adjustability with a boost controller, a minimum of 14 psi is good I guess. also found out there T3's with super 60 trim. I think I'm going to get a junkyard 1bbl that will fit and modify/ rebuild it for the turbo.

Look for a aftermarket wastegate actuator for the turbo. Some will allow you to run lower than stock boost. Most won't because people always want to run higher than stock boost.

As far as the boost controller wallaka was 100 percent correct it just goes inline with the wastegate line.

wallaka a boost and a boost/vacuum arn't the same however. A boost gauge only shows boost, it doesn't show vacuum. In my opinion for the same amount of money get the vacuum one as it can help show if your engine isn't running in tip top shape.

Also just a little fyi controlling a external gate is the same as controlling a internal, the only difference is just in how they bleed off the exhaust flow.
 
Ahh, yeah about the boost/vaccum gauge I was thinking of function, not specifically what is on the face of them. I don't see why anybody would get a gauge limited to positive pressures, myself.

Shouldn't he be able to replace the spring with a weaker one on the wastegate to make it open sooner? I'm not the most knowledgeable about GN turbo setups and it's been awhile, but I know that on most DSMs you can crush the dashpot and adjust the pressure higher, so it stands to reason that weakening the spring will cause the exhaust pressure to open the wastegate sooner.
 
wallaka":nuni875h said:
Ahh, yeah about the boost/vaccum gauge I was thinking of function, not specifically what is on the face of them. I don't see why anybody would get a gauge limited to positive pressures, myself.

Shouldn't he be able to replace the spring with a weaker one on the wastegate to make it open sooner? I'm not the most knowledgeable about GN turbo setups and it's been awhile, but I know that on most DSMs you can crush the dashpot and adjust the pressure higher, so it stands to reason that weakening the spring will cause the exhaust pressure to open the wastegate sooner.

Thats ok I just didn't want to confuse the guy :D . I also can't understand why you would only want positive when a dual is usually the same price.

As far as the spring I am not really sure. Most of the actuators that I have delt with you would have to almost destroy to get inside them to the spring. If you could get inside of it you could definitly put a softer spring in to make it open at a lower pressure though.

Are you thinking of BOV's though with the Dsm's? Just curious as most guys don't typically crush the actuators for more boost as they hold great with a boost controller. They do however crust the 1g bov's down a bit to make them hold much higher boost pressure. It is a very common mod and is done all the time when someone uses higher boost pressures.
 
It all depends on how cheap you are, LOL. I've seen the actuators cut in half and threaded back together with a screw collar to get adjustment, all kinds of crazy things. I'd build one of those check-valve boost controllers myself but people will find all kinds of different solutions to problems.
 
wallaka":38zfi4h1 said:
It all depends on how cheap you are, LOL. I've seen the actuators cut in half and threaded back together with a screw collar to get adjustment, all kinds of crazy things. I'd build one of those check-valve boost controllers myself but people will find all kinds of different solutions to problems.

I haven't seen anyone go to that extreme, I do know you can buy aftermarket actuators cheap for Dsm's so people usually just do that. I have seen some really really cheep things done with exhaust/turbo manifolds in Hondas however. I never seem to be amazed by the amount of stuff people will jerry rig however though.
 
I was wondering about the boost/vac gauge cause I wasn't shure if they were hard to read or not. is 14 psi of boost sustanable with 8.5:1 compression? cause that's what I will have by my calculations
 
matt1967":2wacpgfl said:
I was wondering about the boost/vac gauge cause I wasn't shure if they were hard to read or not. is 14 psi of boost sustanable with 8.5:1 compression? cause that's what I will have by my calculations

Their not very hard to read at all. If your worried about being able to read it get the bigger one. The 2 5/8 vs 2 1/16. I went from the smaller ones to the larger and there is a WORLD of difference in readability.

Do you have a map for your turbo and or do you know the cfm at that psi? 14 sounds like a lot but if you intercool it you should be pretty close to being ok. If need be you could also rig up a water/alcohol injection system to keep temps and detonation down.
 
It's off an early GN, so 14 psi is at its upper efficiency range (at least in its stock application!) from what I've seen with it. On the other hand, it was used for a 4.3L V-6 originally and since the 200 is a full liter smaller in displacement as well as having a more restrictive intake, 14 psi might not be a problem...however, if you run over 8-9 psi an intercooler or some form of temperature regulation is a very smart move.
 
79zeph":28bvdbba said:
wallaka":28bvdbba said:
It all depends on how cheap you are, LOL. I've seen the actuators cut in half and threaded back together with a screw collar to get adjustment, all kinds of crazy things. I'd build one of those check-valve boost controllers myself but people will find all kinds of different solutions to problems.

I haven't seen anyone go to that extreme, I do know you can buy aftermarket actuators cheap for Dsm's so people usually just do that. I have seen some really really cheep things done with exhaust/turbo manifolds in Hondas however. I never seem to be amazed by the amount of stuff people will jerry rig however though.

I know a lot of el cheapo's. I'd rather fab or modify something than buy it anyday...breaking stuff is half the fun!
 
where could I find a map for that? is there a site with maps on them? I don't know what CFM it is at @ 14 psi. I'd actully like to find out that way I can ajust surge flow on my dyno program, right now I got it set at 200 CFM surge flow now, right now with everything pluged in right it's showing me 180 HP @ 5,500 RPM with this set up, I put it as a AR T3 turbo, cause that's what I found out it was, a T3 with super 60 trim.
 
wallaka":11d4jnog said:
Google is your friend. Well, that and Garrett's website. Also found through Google.
just found the compressor map. :)
t3-s60.gif
 
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