All Small Six mild 200 rebuild - still dialing in - timing questions

This relates to all small sixes
Thanks again, wakjob!
I´m going to take things step by step, including re-gapping my plugs, re-checking timing and the TDC mark, installing a fuel pressure regulator and an AFR gauge, and revisiting my basic jetting setup. As I compare my numbers with yours and others I´ve found on this site (see attached), I feel there´s a lot of adjusting to be done prior to drilling a flapper.
Not ruling that out, and i´m encouraged by your recommendation, but first things first. I´m hoping the AFR will be my friend.
I´m in Kearney, Nebraska at around 2200 feet with heat and some humidity. I travel a lot to Denver (5300 ft. and dry) and to Des Moines (1000 ft. and swampy), so I hope getting this dialed in will allow for both with minimal adjusting between the two. Again, I´ll be depending on the AFR to see what adjustments will be needed, whether its simply turning the mix screw or changing out a main (especially if I head to the mountains). But all of that´s down the road, so to speak.
I´ll be checking out those vids!
Cheers!
Tim
 

Attachments

  • weber jetting.pdf
    160.3 KB · Views: 14
yeah, drillin holes would B the last for me...
 
Howdy folks,
Hard to believe it´s been a year since I kinda sorta ended this thread. However, I have a question that I hope will close it. Either I´m good or I need to adjust my valve timing.

In brief, the thread revealed sloppy cam degreeing on my part, but the discrepancies noted (thanks again to pmuller and bubba who checked my numbers) didn´t quite seem to warrant my re-degreeing the assembled engine in situ, nor putting in an adjustable timing set. The thread was left with my being encouraged to double check TDC on my balancer.

I have now, finally, done that. To wit:

Using a proper piston stop, TDC is almost 5 degrees (1/4") BEFORE the TDC mark on the balancer, as it rotates clockwise. (That is to say, based on about a 1/4inch arc of a 5 7/8" dia. circle that my high-school math indicates around 4.8 degrees.)

So, if my recurved dizzy wants around 18 degrees advanced (according to Bill), what should my timing light show when this is dialed in, 14 or 22 using the original mark?

I´m thinking that, since the balancer's timing mark comes to TDC 4 degrees later than true TDC, I need to set the spark timing at 22-23 to compensate. Is that right? That´s where it´s set now with good results. Retarding the dizzy much more makes for a rough idle.

The reason I ask now: I know this is for a different thread, but I´m finally getting close to dialing in the jetting on that Weber DGV. Car now idles and runs great, frankly. (Note: fresh fuel helps!) However, I´m still needing to lean it out some according to my AFR gauge. Cruising at 60mph, it reads low 13%, and I´ve already taken my primary main down to 145 (at 2000 ft altitude), which is lower than most folks on this forum report for Weber jetting. (My primary idle is a 50, which is also smaller than most folks here. Note: i got larger exhaust valves and a 2" exhaust if that is part of the reason.) Anyway, since the carb tuning and the timing are connected, I thought I´d re-check my timing, both valve and spark, before any more leaning. I´ll follow up on a Weber thread after I get the timing right.

Meanwhile, thanks, as always, for any constructive input ya´ll can offer!
timson
 
Keep it simple, make a new mark on the balancer that is right, and also mark the hub to match so you can tell if the outer ring is moving.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top