Modifications / Improvments to 200 engine?! New owner!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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The steel ones I've been referring to are just a steel stamping, a lot like those BrandX ones you mentioned...you have to put your own sealant in all the little grooves, so you gotta be quick like Superman upon assembly :wink: .

If the Aussie engines don't use these steely ones, I'm interested in knowing the deck height measurements that those engines have. I've seen in the American Mustangs' 200 engines some heights up to almost .100", which seems outrageous. Mostly they seem to run around .045" on the 3.3L version (1978 and later). Some other guys have told me numbers like .050" (early 60s Falcon) and even a variance of .010" from one cylinder to the next. I suspect that last one must have had some really loose rods or something. :shock:

CZLN6's brother actually cut one into a negative deck height of .005" in his Ranchero, I've heard. If I wasn't afraid of running into water, I'd try that right off the bat, since the quench then would be .005 LESS than the gasket thickness. That's a nice, tight squish for real high speed mixing in the chamber. If one took the time to smooth the chamber and de-ridge the sparkplug boss, this would give a real even flamefront, even at CR up to 11:1 . Then, using lower-octane fuel because of lack of ping, you could get more power the old-fashioned way: earning it.. :)

Lest I start a war here - the lower octane you can run without ping, the more power you will make, all else being equal (CR, charge size, burn rate, etc.). That's just physics. The problem in most engines is introduced in cylinder-to-cylinder differences that cause slight imbalance in the rotational speed of the crank. This causes the next cylinder to be 'out of rhythm', if you will, just slightly, which creates a need to detune it slightly to live with the problem or else raise the octane to make it burn a little slower to buffer the differences. This nature of multi-cylinder engines becomes very nasty at high RPM (like 10,000 and above), twisting cranks clean in two if the cylinder-to-cylinder differences exceeds 0.5%, especially when running alcohol or nitro, since they burn so fast.

When I went into my 200 for the first time, I remember going slack-jawed when I looked at the castings in the combustion chambers. They are so bad that I can easily understand why high RPM is not an easy option for these sixes. If someone were to take the time to match them up for flow and volume, there would be a serious jump in power and economy together. But, if mine is typical, it would add about 2.5cc to 4cc to each chamber to clean up the show. Then you'd have to figure out how to lose this volume somewhere else, like flat-top pistons, or something.. :roll:

Maybe if we get lots of snow this winter and I can find a head to play with, I'll dig into this more. I work in a machine shop with every imagineable CNC machine at hand, software, and almost half the crew are racers. I'd hate to tell y'all what they think of me playing with these sixes...
 
Mark, from memory (dangerous, as we say :? ) the deck height on a 221 is about 15-20 thou, tops. Chamber 58-60cc, CR static is 9.3:1. I guess that means I should be able to work out the dish... The 200 was similar in deck, but smaller chambers (48.5-50.5). I can double check in a few days if you must know. :wink:

Regards, Adam.
 
My 1966 Aussie 200 runs a set of 4.715" rod, 3.126" crank, 7.833" deck, and 1.53" piston. Thats from my calibrated depth gauge. The piston volume is the same, 200 or 221. About 6 cc's or so. A set of feeler gauges indicate 25 thou of freeboard from the top of the block, to the top of the piston.

Mind you, I've measured the bore spacings as 4.045, not 4.08", so I could be out 30 thou.

All Aussie engines have about -25 thou deck registers. 200, or 221, or 250.


I'm convinced the FoMoCo dudes in Canada just wanted to have some freeboard in the production tollerances. No-one wants a hard worked six having the piston touching the head, or the CR skyrocketing, even though a zero deck with even a small chamber can carry lots of compression. That nasty heat riser raises the motor octane number needed by about 5 octane numbers on most modern engines. So the Windsor boys would have just raised the deck to suit, especially during the 70's.


Zero deck it if you can afford an engine rebuild, but certainly seal it with a thin gasket, and do the mods on the combustion chamber to ensure the 25 thou streach of the con-rod,crank and piston at 5000 rpm + is catered for.

And use the Cortina 2 barrel Weber/Bresel 32/36 carb, and make or get, an adaptor to suit. There is up to 125 net flywheel hp hidding in the 3.3 six, and if you follow good shop practice and dyno set the ignition and free up the exhast with a tubular header (extractor/ flows), you'll make a big improvement, and it will be economical, turn key and will give you a smile. The central port divider for cylinder 3 and 4 will be of help too.
 
Not sure what is meant by "mill the headers", if I was to put a new header on, and lose the original gasket. It does look like I have a metal gasket. What is Compression Ratio? How is it affected by the exhaust header?

I will eventually get the Clifford, or similar, dual header, but not until I know a little more! Since I live over here, far away from any Mustang or Ford Six specialist, I would need to buy everything I need before starting.

Also, what is BG? I assume it's some kind of additive, but I've never heard of it. Same with MGC?

I have a Pertronix Ignitor under my dist. cap, and I am going to install the flame thrower coil at some point. The dist., cap, etc, is all new in my car, so will I still suffer from corrosion? How can I tell?
 
Damon;
That's "mill the head", not the headers. This is the process of grinding off some of the surface of the head where it matches up to the block.

Usually, if you were to pull the head for a valve job, a good shop will grind it flat for you, since they always warp after a bunch of miles. This milling operation is usually on the order of .003" to .007" to get it flat again.

Milling more than that much is done for performance and MPG improvements, or to work around aftermarket parts problems, like the aftermarket head gasket situation with these sixes.

If you pull that head, plan on milling it .030" in any case, because the chances of finding a steel gasket out there are pretty slim. This will give you back most of your original compression ratio.

Addo: Thanks for the info. It would appear that the Aussie Ford boys are more in touch with their engines than the Windsor boys of the '70s, that's for sure. 25 thou deck height would be like a dream... :wink:
 
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Wow! Those dots are hard on the eyes.
 
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