Moving forward

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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Well, now I got the brakes... I need to get the motor running so I can move the car and get it up on stands. I have a lot of questions on my mind. Here they are:

The block has rust on the deck, and the pistons have residue on them. The motor has been left sitting for well over 8 months with the head off. On top of that, the head has rust on the mating surface. Is it just a matter of removing the rusk, or is there more to it?

If I decide to rebuild, how much would it cost to have the cylinders bored out slightly? Costs of things that need to be done if simple rust removal doesn't cut it? What is suggested to do with the residue?

Thanks in advance.
 
Well i dont know for sure, but i'm pretty sure that when you pay for a full rebuild they bore them out slightly anyways so that they can get a brand new surface thats nice and smooth. I'd imagine that when it comes to just surfaces (like the outer part where the gasket would be touching) would just require cleaning if anything. Either way you would want to clean stuff, on the other hand i know that my complete rebuild even comes with the guy painting it whatever color i want him too (i went with the lighter of ford blues :) ).
 
I'd run with it. You'll need to buy one tool for the kit. A cheapo diamond stone, about 8-10" long, nice and fine (say 320-400 grit). Use wet with a few drops kerosene to dress the gasket surfaces in a figure eight fashion. Work towards the edges, not in from the edges - this detail is important. Stuff the bores and lifter holes well with rags or paper towel before starting.

Just remove the rust and you will see a combination of the casting "grain" and milling marks. Clean super-thoroughly with wax/grease remover or fresh fuel and new shop rags. Make sure you clean edges where slurry could have accumulated.

Piston crowns can be lightly buffed with a stainless wire cup brush in a die grinder or Dremel. As before, make certain removed bits don't go places they're unwanted... Chase your bolt threads with a bottoming tap. The rest is pretty run-of-the-mill.

Don't fixate on the motor at this point; get it going and dial in later. It won't hurt to measure some stuff while it's open - bore, piston dish, head chamber size for starters. That may help you plan later. But trust me; once people see the body restoration coming along, then mechanical parts offers will come out the woodwork.
 
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